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Joined: 6/25/2003 From: United States Status: offline
I am looking to upgrade the suspension on my 95 GT and was wondering if anyone had some ideas or experiences with various companies. I was looking at Steeda's, MaximumMotorsport's, and Kenny Brown's suspension kits. Any advice or comments would be appreciated. Anyone tried MaximumMotorsport's coil-over kits?
Posts: 495
Joined: 6/4/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Steeda, Kenny Brown, Griggs (griggs is awesome, costs a little more, but DAMN!), UPR and PST (I think PST is over priced for what they offer) -- UPR is excellent for the money.
Whichever you go with, make sure you get and all around kit, don't mix and match unless you are an expert (which if you ask means you are not) -- so kits front and rear are the way to go.
I'm thinking about UPR front and rear -- I would love griggs, but with and ex-wife, 6 kids (three in college) and girlfriend....I would have to wait and save a little more.....well, I want it NOW!!! hahaha.... so anyway.....
..also, UPR has a nice rear kit, also comes with an anti-roll bar, but I can't put it on on my '90 cause I have full pipes, I thought about getting the side pipes from Steeda but I can't put those on because I have Sub-frame connectors..... other than that..... UPR is probably the best bang for the buck when it comes to suspension.
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Joined: 6/30/2003 From: United States Status: offline
well what im doin to my '02 GT is gettin some eibach springs lowering it 1.5-2 inches, Bilstein sport shocks/struts, Maximmum moter sport caster camber plates, Steeda bushing kit,spring isolaters, with some new goodyear F1 tires to replace to stock tires. I have not bought the parts yet but this is the setup im lookin at. If any 1 thinks there is a better set up or if anything is wrong with this please tell me i need opinions.. THX! 2002 Stang GT37811.0272685185
If you are just looking for a basic setup, look at getting some full length SFC, springs, and some lower control arms. The kind of suspension that get from there on out will depend on what kind of driving you are going to do. A drag set up should be different from a road/daily driver setup. Like Whitehawk said, MM and other companies have really good kits depending on how you are going to be driving the car. wei46237811.0601388889
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Joined: 6/4/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Absolutely drag is diff. from road racing and from Daily driving.....so make sure you consult MUSTANG shops(not just any shop...trust me, i learned the hard way) on what you need for what you want.
I personally am now starting a 1990 LX project..... I want it setup for daily/road type o deal. Now it doesn't mean you can't take it to the 1/4 mile and race it every wkend....it just means it's not OPTIMAL for 1/4 mile if you were to get into it heavily..... SO.....anyway....here is my future setup plan....plus also I want a little cleanliness when someone opens the hood and/or lifts the car.....paint job i couldn't care less....hahaha...but thats just me
UPRproducts - Front end kit, Chrome moly steel, silver powder coated K-Member, tubular A-arms, poly-bushings, coil-over kits and I'm still thinking about the spring rates (gotta think alot about spring rates) - thats about 700 bucks...then I'm going with the tokico illumina series - 500bucks (which i doubt I'll need that much adjustment, but in case i change my mind or for that 1/4mile wknd warrior that bursts out of me every now and then) - then for the rear....it's UPR again... double adjustable uppers, adjustable lowers, coil overs and solid/moveable bushings and a bar for 600 bucks(to which I'm going to have to go with turndowns...not that i have a problem with LOUD, but my association may not like it...hahahaha)...I already have Sub-frame connectors from Kenny brown with the cross section....so I'm putting in a street 6 point cage (350bucks cause i want it welded, but dont have the means to do it myself)....the kind that doesnt' interfere with the seat when you get in. ---- OH...yes and Caster/Camber plates....VERY important in a mustang -- about 150bucks --- tower brace about 175 (polished) and that should take care of what I want suspension wise. After I added the Sub-frame connectors I noted a big difference...I can only imagine after I do all that how it's going to feel.....oh man that's wood material hahahahaha...
Posts: 161
Joined: 6/30/2003 From: United States Status: offline
that sounds expensive, but if u have the money u should go to www.stangsuspension.com and get the road and track kit which comes with everything listed here:
MM Strut Tower Brace MM 4-Point K-Member Brace MM Full Length Subrame Connectors MM Panhard Bar with Aluminum Rod MM Heavy-duty Rear Lower Control Arms H&R Race Springs Bilstein front struts Bilstein rear shocks MM Caster/Camber Plate MM Urethane Pinion Snubber Front spring isolators Rear spring isolators Solid Steering Shaft MM Aluminum Rack Bushings, center drilled Front Swaybar bushings Front Swaybar end link bushing kit Front control arm bushings, urethane
A 1990 LX Mustang equipped with the Road & Track Box tied for the 3rd fastest slalom speed ever recorded by Motor Trend. The Road & Track Box includes the following parts. Items different from the Sport Box are italicized.
3rd best! the kit cost $2063 and i think its all worth it, but i cant afford this, my set up i had said in my first thread do u think that its ok? thx
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Joined: 6/4/2003 From: United States Status: offline
2002 Stang GT - that sounds like a nice setup (the one from stangsuspension) -
...but no, there seems nothing wrong with your setup .... the only thing you may have a problem with is the 1.5" - 2" lowering. It may be a bit too much for a street driven stang. - My 90' LX is lowered by at least that much, but I'm going to make it higher due to the tires touching and the fact that unless I have 3 lanes, I can't make a u-turn without letting the rear break loose and spin around. Hard for parking lots and hard for drive-thru -- (other than that 2" is ok, but just NOT street practical which you mentioned daily driving). -- but you have a 2002....I don't know how far down you can lower it without having problems.....but for that you can refer to your stang mechanic/suspension guy. -- (make sure it's a Stang guy that knows "new edge" stangs)
I'm getting the whole setup, but I'm doing it in parts....for example. complete front end.....then complete rear, then roll bar, then strut tower and lower bar -- it's all chassis, but I figure two to three months in between each so it doesn't kill the pocket.
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Joined: 6/4/2003 From: United States Status: offline
When you take CORNERS in a stang, the bay can flex from 1/2" to over 2 inches (of course that depends on the stang body you have). the Strut Tower Brace is a VERY functional piece in the suspension dept. -
Are all of them created equal or are some that are better than others. I have seen the one from MM and it seems like a fair price. I havnt really been pricing them so I am not quite sure.
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Joined: 6/4/2003 From: United States Status: offline
They range from $130 to just a bit over $225 depending on finish and colour.... black steel probably on the low side.....chrome moly chromed probably on the upper side.
They are easy to install, probably takes less than 2 hrs.
Posts: 495
Joined: 6/4/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Where do you live? -- I live in South Florida, Steeda is just down the street from me, but not everyone is that lucky.....also there are a few in town that I've found recently.....
Check with other mechanics, yellow pages -- ask about specialists, check mags for ads and where they are located...stuff like that...word of mouth is also very good, so get together with other stangers in your area and they'll probably know....that's probably ur best bet.
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Suspension Upgrade - 
