RE: Custom Interiors
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RE: Custom Interiors - 2/25/2007 7:15:11 PM
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Asbury030
Posts: 84
Joined: 10/8/2006
Status: offline
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Hey guys well I have a 91 mustang and I want all my panels to be black what do you suggest?
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RE: Custom Interiors - 3/5/2007 7:32:32 PM
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924banger
Posts: 1456
Joined: 2/7/2007
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Asbury030
Hey guys well I have a 91 mustang and I want all my panels to be black what do you suggest?
New ones.....i think there are some in the classifieds right now.
How do I get my plastic smooth? I am painting the defrost vent on my 92. I have about 3 coats on but don't really like the rough look. What do I need to do? There should be a sticky on how to smooth out factory rough pieces.
< Message edited by 924banger -- 3/5/2007 7:36:33 PM >
_____________________________
Red 92 LX mustang 4cyl
1992 Bronco 5.8L
1993 Lightning #1579...Died 12/21/06
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RE: Custom Interiors - 4/5/2007 1:32:14 AM
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tommy2273boy
Posts: 1886
Joined: 8/22/2006
From: Mid-Mich
Status: offline
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here, I threw this together, tells a little more...
You’ll need:
- Sand Paper (fine grit)
- Lacquer Thinner (not paint thinner) and (should be liquid, not gel)
- Spray paint (Rattle-can)
- Clear Coat (NOT recommended for interior pieces)
- Clean towels
- Paint Area
Tips:
- Make sure its not too cold or too hot, 60* - 100* dry and no wind is ideal, and good ventilation
- Setup your paint area and stay out of the elements, such as wind or light rain. Do not paint in high humidity; the paint will not stick when it’s humid)
- I also recommend picking a factory color for trim pieces, so they’re easy to look up later on. Since my car is black/black, I choose Silver Charcoal from the 2003 year for my pieces. You can get paint from almost any car part store, my shop is Car Quest)
- Be sure keep the spray nozzle clear of paint build up. Hold the spray can about 5-8 inches away from the piece that you’re painting. Spray side to side and start before the piece and end after the piece.
- Hair dryer on low heat or a sunny day helps aid in the drying process.
Steps:
1. Wash it (soap and water)
2. Dry it (clean towel)
3. Tape off areas not to be painted (blue painters tape works well)
4. Sand it (all over and just enough to scuff it, you don’t need to go to the raw material)
5. Lacquer thin it (wipe it down with a towel dampened with lacquer thinner)
6. Dry (final wipe before we start)
7. Prime it (this is not always necessary, it helps as a base coat and fill in minor scratches)
8. Coat 1 of paint (not a whole lot, just to cover most the item, still should be able to see the base still)
9. Dry (10-15mins)
10. Coat 2 of paint (enough to cover the item and even out spots missed)
11. Dry (10-15mins)
12. Coat 3 of paint (giving it a good final coat)
13. Dry (10-15mins)
14. Clear Coat (This is also not necessary, I prefer not to clear the inside parts, it might add unwanted glare. But if you are, repeat steps 12 and 13 as many times as you’d like using the clear)
The hardest part is if you taped off an area, you need to peel the tape before the paint dries to much, if you wait too long you can risk peeling paint off the part.
Let it all sit in sun for the day or by a heater for about 24hrs before handling. After letting it dry, take it back into your car and snap it back into place, be careful not to press too hard on the painted areas.
Disaster Recovery:
if your paint either reacts with the plastic or the paint runs (and in some cases it starts to rain on your project)...don’t panic!
Stop painting,
Let it dry,
Sand the effected area,
(you may also want to lightly wipe with lacquer thinner on the area)
Then repaint and blend in with the rest of the piece.
Do Not:
- touch it with your finger(s) at any time (if you want to know if its dry or not, assume its not)
- load it up with paint causing it to run (there can always be more coats, get it next time)
- move it (ONLY if you really have to, otherwise leave it be)
_____________________________
Re-Tune/Dyno maybe
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