Posts: 3481
Joined: 5/21/2005 From: S.burbs Chicago Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: nothsa
Stoener what front lip were you planning on going with? I think i'm going to go the same route as you and do the roush rear coil springs because I also want to do a front lip and don't want to sacrifice the front of my car to any damage. I was looking toward the cdc aggressive chin spoiler but i'm not sure if the cdc classic would be a better decision.
Classic defintly for me. Getting antsy to order, lol.
quote:
ORIGINAL: quiksilva
Hey Stoener, Your Mustang's stance is just right, IMHO. I'm going to install the Roush rear springs this weekend...Fedex just delivered them. Do you have any tips for the installation? -John
Thanks Installation of the rears only was a sinch, tip would be to only do one side at a time.
< Message edited by Stoenr -- 3/19/2006 12:00:29 AM >
Are you planning on putting struts and dampers? I really want to go the same route as you but heard there are possible alignment problems that youc an run into in the future. The front is still lower than the rear with only the rear springs correct?
Posts: 3481
Joined: 5/21/2005 From: S.burbs Chicago Status: offline
Im not planning on anything more as far as suspension goes for now. Mayby LCA and Uppers, and panhard bar to rid of any wheel hop that I may get, it seems to be 50/50 on wheel hop, depends on pavement.
As far as alignement issues, i have none. This is helped by doing one side at a time. Yes, the front is still about 1/4- 1/2 inch lower than the rear.
I decided that I am going to wait until I can afford Eibach Sportlines with Tokico D-Spec struts and dampers along with a panhard bar. The wait will be worth it I figure.
I ordered Eibach Pro-sport springs through a customer of ours at cost, that was the final deciding factor vs. Steeda,etc.(The Sport lines are too low for my drive and local roads) Saved a little (not much mark up on these as I thought). Also decided from reading all the posts relating to this lowering project to go with the Tokico D-spec shocks/struts. Found on Hotpart.com the cheapest price ($524.82 delivered). Not bad. When I lower it, I'll measure and decide if I need the adjustable Panhard then or not. Already have the camber bolts on order. If I need the rod, I'll order one or make it, got other vehicles to drive while I wait for it... I'll post and let everyone know how it looks! As to the guy who is asking if you need the adjustible panhard rod, if you can afford to have the car off line for a few days, just get it lowered with the springs/shocks&struts, then measure it to see if the axle is still centered. If it is off, then spend the moneyand change the rod. If not, you saved 130 plus bucks for other toys! It's not tied in with the springs, so you don't have to take it all apart again to change the panhard rod. I'm not cheap, but there's soooo many toys I want for this ride!
I already posted this in a thread I started but figured it belongs here to...installed my roush rear springs yesterday, big improvement all around if u ask me, looks, handling, much less squat, etc...
'05 GT Conv. 5-speed, Black leather, 20's, Pypes O/R H & Violators, C&L intake, Brenspeed tune, Roush springs, Saleen STS, Autopower 4-pt roll bar. FLOWMASTERS SUCK, read this thread.. http://www.mustangforums.com/m_1237975/tm.htm
Alright guys went out and got my Pro kit Eibachs in and also the Tokico D-specs..... The car looks great now... I'm hoping to get some adjustment pointers from other D-Spec guys... Any insight will be greatly appreciated...
Thanks, Alfred
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JBA Long Tube Headers complete off road kit Steeda Cold Air intake 90 MM Steeda HD Engine Mounts Steeda Under drive pulleys Ford Racing 4.10's SCT Xcal2 Pro Kit Eibachs and Tokico D Specs Foose Nitrous 20's
Posts: 3481
Joined: 5/21/2005 From: S.burbs Chicago Status: offline
I just cant justify pulling out perfectly good shocks and struts to put these tokico Dspecs on. Maybe after 40-60,000 miles on the car I could see doing it. But to spend all that money just to get a bouncy/harsh ride seems pointless at this point. But people on here make alot more than me and can toss money around like that I guess.
If you want a nice comfy street ride set the fronts at 3 1/2 turns out from full hard and the rears at about 3 3/4 out from full hard. I found that for comfort you need to set the fronts at your target setting and then set the rears about 1/4-1/2 turns softer. This makes the hobby horse motions go away on the roads and highways that the match up with the Mustang's wheelbase and cause a natual frequency rocking front to rear. For those canyon runs turn them up to 2-2 1/2 front and rear and get excellent control of the chassis. I'm sticking with my 17" until the PZero Neros are gone, maybe I'll get a set of take off as the Pirelli PZero Neros are fun tires to play on and easy to feel the limit with very predictable breakaway traits.
Anyway have fun and get an adjustable Panhard bar and H.D. Panhard bar brace to support it! You are far away from what you car can provide in terms of pleasure driving at speed.
Cheers
quote:
ORIGINAL: OhFive GT
Alright guys went out and got my Pro kit Eibachs in and also the Tokico D-specs..... The car looks great now... I'm hoping to get some adjustment pointers from other D-Spec guys... Any insight will be greatly appreciated...
Thanks, Alfred
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2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
That's the problem, the stock S197 struts and dampers are NOT perfectly good by any means! They suck, but if you don't know any better they feel fine a lot of the time on smooth roads. The problem is that the stock Ford struts and rear dampers are way over dampened on the compression stroke and this is why the car is so bouncy and tends to hobby horse on certain stretches of highway usually made of concrete. you don't know what you are missing in terms of improved ride motion and body control by not installing a set of Tokico D-Specs in your car now. The D-Specs put the stock struts and dampers to shame both in ride and control! Find a club member with them installed and you will see how good it can be.
Cheers
quote:
ORIGINAL: Stoenr
I just cant justify pulling out perfectly good shocks and struts to put these tokico Dspecs on. Maybe after 40-60,000 miles on the car I could see doing it. But to spend all that money just to get a bouncy/harsh ride seems pointless at this point. But people on here make alot more than me and can toss money around like that I guess.
_____________________________
2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
Posts: 3481
Joined: 5/21/2005 From: S.burbs Chicago Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: F1Fan
Dude!
That's the problem, the stock S197 struts and dampers are NOT perfectly good by any means! They suck, but if you don't know any better they feel fine a lot of the time on smooth roads. The problem is that the stock Ford struts and rear dampers are way over dampened on the compression stroke and this is why the car is so bouncy and tends to hobby horse on certain stretches of highway usually made of concrete. you don't know what you are missing in terms of improved ride motion and body control by not installing a set of Tokico D-Specs in your car now. The D-Specs put the stock struts and dampers to shame both in ride and control! Find a club member with them installed and you will see how good it can be.
Cheers
quote:
ORIGINAL: Stoenr
I just cant justify pulling out perfectly good shocks and struts to put these tokico Dspecs on. Maybe after 40-60,000 miles on the car I could see doing it. But to spend all that money just to get a bouncy/harsh ride seems pointless at this point. But people on here make alot more than me and can toss money around like that I guess.
You are absolutely correct in that matter. And I will find a member to go for a ride in with. But hard to justify that kind of cash for me. Going to take alot to impress me to go that route. I guess im stubborn from what my old man told me when i was 16,17 when I got my 95 t-bird and was interested in making it sound nice, he said. If you cut off a perfectly good exhuast system, Ill cut your hands off
Im 31 now, and he likes how my car sounds and asked me if I have tuned her already, lol. Amazing how parents can influence you.
everyone has said great things about the tokios, they must be worth it.
I'm very hesitant about putting the $520 toward them, I get my Pro-Kit Springs from UPS on Tuesday. I think I am going to be sticking with the stock struts and dampers.
Did you have alignment issues, did you get any other components or just the springs? If not, you are probably going to run into some fuutre problems especially if you don't plan on adding anything else since you have Sportlines.
Correct me if I am wrong but would anti-squat brackets eliminate the wheel hop since the brackets correct the geometry of the lower control arm, thus eliminating the purchase of struts and dampers?
Nope. The S197's wheel hop is caused by the soft stock bushings in the LCA's and UCA which allow the axle to wind-up and then release wind-up and release over and over under power with a high traction surface and/or grippy tires. This wheel hop condition manifests more often on a stock car than a lowered car because a sport spring lowered car has altered suspension geometry (not for the better), and moves the IC (instant center), so far forward that it doesn't have as much weight transfer as the stock cars do causing tire spin more than wheel hop. So as you can see simply installing a set of lower control arm relocation brackets (such as BMR's weld-in LCA relocation brackets), to move the IC rearward will only make the matter worse unless you first improve the bushing materials used to locate the axle. This would reduce or eliminate the unwanted axle movements which are causing the wheel hop problem.
The purpose of lowering a car is usually to lower the CG and Cd of a car hoping to improving handling, grip accelleration and top speed. The side effects of lowering a car using shorter springs are altered (usually not for the better), suspension geometry usually causing a handling and/or performance loss or trade off unless the geometry is corrected after lowering. Steeda and BMR offer the only ready made parts to correct suspension geometry that has been altered due to lowering with sport springs. Steeda makes a kit to correct the front geometry and BMR offers a kit for the rear axle. You need them both and they work well if the chassis has not been lowered excessively (more than about 1.5" or so).
The purpose of adjustable struts and dampers is to allow the car to be tuned for the suspension components used (primarily spring rate), and road or track conditions the car is to be used on. For a drag strip run you would soften the front struts to allow the car to react as quickly as possible transfering as much weight as possible to the rear axle at launch. This can help you drop a tenth or maybe even 2 tenths under the right conditions.
If you installed a set of BMR LCA relocation brackets you could also increase the weight transfer by moving the axle side of the LCA's downward. BMR also makes a dedicated S197 upper control arm mount that allows you even more rearward movement of IC by moving the UCA mount on the body away from the chassis. The particular settings used will depend on the chassis suspension combination, tires, power and track grip but you can get a LOT more inital grip from moving the car's IC rearward. All those pictures of cars that are doing deep squats on the line are wasting power, they are NOT putting the power to the ground as fast as they could be. When the car's ass end is seen to rise or level out on application of full power you are doing it right and getting the power down to the ground. Once you get this level of weight transfer your 60' times will plummet and your ET's will fall .2-.5 seconds assumming you have more power than traction at the moment.
So to answer your questions, no and no.
Cheers
quote:
ORIGINAL: torchflame
Correct me if I am wrong but would anti-squat brackets eliminate the wheel hop since the brackets correct the geometry of the lower control arm, thus eliminating the purchase of struts and dampers?
< Message edited by F1Fan -- 4/13/2006 5:20:15 PM >
_____________________________
2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
Printable Version
RE: Lowering your 05/06 Mustang GT - 
Lowering your 05/06 Mustang GT - 
RE: Lowering your 05/06 Mustang GT - 
