I have a 2005 Ford Mustang GT with about 1,500 miles on it. I just installed the Steeda sports srings a few days ago and I "LOVE" the new look and ride. I still have the stock shocks/struts and i cannot feel a difference(ride quality) from the stock springs. I feel that the car handles better and I do not bounce up and down the street. I already had 18' black rims with NItto 555(255/45/18) all around. It definitely looks bad ass with just the small drop. I am sure the car will also lower even more once the springs get settled in. Steeda has done a hell of a job. Down the line I plan to go with the Tokico D-specs. NOTE*** pictures posted below were taken when car had stock ride height.
I just installed The rears only today. Went with the Roush ones since they seem to be the only ones sold not in a front and rear kit. Install took about 15-20 minutes. Price 124.99 shipped. Lowered the rear one inch. The car now sits almost level without the rear wheel gap. Stared at for 10-15 minutes making sure I was happy and I am. The rear is 1/4" higher than the front, measuring from ground to fender, centered up with wheel.
did you use the OEM shocks? Are there any rearend alignment issues with this type of lowering? I agree that only the rearend needs lowering in my case also. Thanks
I have a Black on Black 05Mustang Gt ..Used the Steeda's to lower the rear only . As was said in a previous post , the car looks "right" now . Local speed shop charged me $75 to install . Not much stiffer ...it seems to handle better .
I have the Tein H springs. Advertised drop is 1.7" rear and .09" front. The ride is not the best but I also have 275 35 R18's Blizzaks for the winter. The ride is mainly bouncy and my wife says it makes her feel sick.
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05 GT Blk on BLk, A/T, ISP 18" Rims, 1.7" Drop, JLT II & X-cal2 tuned by Evolution
Former Mustangs: 93' LX Special Ed Triple White Vert 5sp 88' Retired CHP LX 5sp 84' 2.3 Turbo GT 5sp
So I am more of a canyon carver than a drag racer. If I go with the Tokico Spec-D's and some lowering springs, either Steeda's or Eibach's, should I also worry about anti-roll bars? Do they make a big difference in cornering etc. Some of the kits (Eibach and FFRP) come so complete I am wondering why NOT to go with them.
You guys are great with sharing info. I really appreciate y'all putting up with us FNG's!
I'm a canyon and open track day driver. IMO the Tokico D-Spec struts and rear dampers are the best available for the S197s at the moment. There may be other good strut and damper kits if and when Koni or Biltien brings out a XX-Sport kit but they are nowhere to be seen at the moment and in talking to them they are not in a big hurry to produce Sport kits for the S197s. The Tokico D-Spes have pretty well matched compression to rebound ratios and seem to work very well with both stock OE rate springs and the stiffest of the production sport spring kits like Eibach Pro-Kit sport springs or Steeda's "competition" spring set.
The anti-roll bar kits are going to help you more if you have taller stock or sport springs as used in Steeda's spring kits and/or if you have wider sticky summer only type tires. They will also help you to balance the handling of the car if you have a balance issue with your springs. A good sport spring kit should help balance the car's handling in addition to lowering and heling to resist brake dive and body roll. If you have one of the stiff sport spring kits that not only lowers the car but also has a much higher spring rate that is designed to reduce understeer such as Eibach's Pro-Kit sport springs and also correct the suspension geometry with Steeda's (front control arms), and BMR's (rear lower control arms), relocation brackets you likely won't have a reason to get the AR bars without larger wheels and low profile sticky summer tires and lots of time at the track.
All of the suspension kits at the moment are using non-adjustable dampers and many of them are not very good damers and/or poorly matched to the springs in the kit and NONE of them are adjustable! Buy your springs to matchyour application and Tokico's D-Spec strut/damper kit to allow you to dial in the ride and control level you like. Adjusting the front and rear combined takes less than 2 minutes! FRPP's kit is a mix and match setup using Eibach produced springs and bars that may have been spec'd by Ford or Multi-Matic, nobody is saying and I have not measured a set. If somebody would send me a strut, rear damper and one each of the springs I could have them dyno'd and the springs rated. The FRPP kit also uses a set of struts and dampers spec'd by Multi-Matic but the car I drove with the full FRPP kit was very stiff legged due to over dampened compression rate on the struts and rear dampers and that was on 17" stock wheels and tire. On 18"+ wheels and tires the FRPP kit will be unpleasent riding to say the least and there is no way to adjust the dampers.
The Eibach kit is using simple and cheaply made struts and dampers, avoid the full Eibach kit with dampers, they suck and are not adjustable.
I hope this helps!
Cheers
quote:
ORIGINAL: sptlckr
So I am more of a canyon carver than a drag racer. If I go with the Tokico Spec-D's and some lowering springs, either Steeda's or Eibach's, should I also worry about anti-roll bars? Do they make a big difference in cornering etc. Some of the kits (Eibach and FFRP) come so complete I am wondering why NOT to go with them.
You guys are great with sharing info. I really appreciate y'all putting up with us FNG's!
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2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
Steeda Sport Springs on 18" Fanblades (yes, I like the fanblades). Good drop. About 1 1/4" in the back, 1" in the front. Looks great! Only problem is my gluteus maximus sometimes aches abit from driving in the crappy NYC pothole filled streets.
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Black 06 GT Vert Auto, JLT II CAI, FRPP Borla Stingers, FRPP 4.10 Gears, Steeda Underdrive Pulleys, Steeda Sports Springs, X-Cal 2 93 Octane Tune
It is not your Steed sport springs that you are feeling it's the struts and dampers. The Steeda sport springs are not significantly stiffer than the stock springs. Steeda's springs are just stiff enough to correct for the slightly lower ride height and reduced travel this produces. If you are still riding on the stock OE struts and rear dampers get a set of Tokico D-Spec struts and dampers to help your backside on your drives.
Cheers
quote:
ORIGINAL: kilmar
Steeda Sport Springs on 18" Fanblades (yes, I like the fanblades). Good drop. About 1 1/4" in the back, 1" in the front. Looks great! Only problem is my gluteus maximus sometimes aches abit from driving in the crappy NYC pothole filled streets.
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2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
Hello. I'm considering the Eibach Pro-Kit springs for my '06 GT. I actually know very little about the process and procedure but from what I've read I've gathered that it's best to use only the springs and not the Eibach struts or dampers? Does lowering the car have any negative effect on the drive line in any way?.......like does it alter the angle of the dangle to the differential or anything that will come to light in 20,000 miles? One of the first posters said he only changed the rear springs......that seems like it would alter the line in some way?
Exactly! Just buy the Eibach Pro-Kit sport springs only kit, add a set of Tokico's D-Spec adjustable struts and dampers and an adjustable Panhard bar and H.D. PB support brace and you will most likely be very happy with the day to day ride and major league improvements in handling and grip you can squeeze out the your new pony.
There are no side effects on the drivetrain from the lowering itself. For a drag car the pinion angle is not optimum but this is easy to adjust with an adjustable upper control arm. The drivetrain angle changes from lowering with springs is a non-issue.
I would NEVER suggest using only one end of a sport spring kit unless I knew for a fact that sport spring kit had spring rates that were chosen to be used in this way. Bad things can happen to your handling unless you know what you are doing. Don't do this if you are serious about handling and track performance.
Cheers
quote:
ORIGINAL: sicko6
Hello. I'm considering the Eibach Pro-Kit springs for my '06 GT. I actually know very little about the process and procedure but from what I've read I've gathered that it's best to use only the springs and not the Eibach struts or dampers? Does lowering the car have any negative effect on the drive line in any way?.......like does it alter the angle of the dangle to the differential or anything that will come to light in 20,000 miles? One of the first posters said he only changed the rear springs......that seems like it would alter the line in some way?
thanks guys.
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2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
I just ordered the Roush rear springs yesterday, so I'll be able to add a second opinion on the rear springs only install. I'll let you all know how it works out.
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'05 GT Conv. 5-speed, Black leather, 20's, Pypes O/R H & Violators, C&L intake, Brenspeed tune, Roush springs, Saleen STS, Autopower 4-pt roll bar. FLOWMASTERS SUCK, read this thread.. http://www.mustangforums.com/m_1237975/tm.htm
ive got quite of bit of bolt on's for hp gains, but i havent done one thing to the suspension yet which i know i need to do, keep in mind that this is my daily driver and track car, what are some of the first suspension mods i need to look at getting, from reading this post it looks like springs and struts are first maybe? but im not really sure what to get any help appreciated.
EDIT::: My real main concern is stopping the rear end wheel hop, it is driving me crazy, so whats the quickest and possibly cheapest way to do this?
thanks, Chris.
< Message edited by Hufenstang -- 3/13/2006 11:33:46 PM >
Stoener what front lip were you planning on going with? I think i'm going to go the same route as you and do the roush rear coil springs because I also want to do a front lip and don't want to sacrifice the front of my car to any damage. I was looking toward the cdc aggressive chin spoiler but i'm not sure if the cdc classic would be a better decision.
Hey Stoener, Your Mustang's stance is just right, IMHO. I'm going to install the Roush rear springs this weekend...Fedex just delivered them. Do you have any tips for the installation? -John
I am about to order my springs and I have decided to go with the Eibach Pro-Kit. Now should I also order the Tokico D-Spec struts and dampers at the same time and do I really need a panhard bar? I don't know that much about this process so i'm looking to you guys to see if the information I have gathered makes a good conclusion.
Appreciate the reply. Side hop I am used to. The squirrelly dance when going straight is what I need to eliminate.It's the front that's dancing. I suspect that when the car lifts at that speed (1) geometry is changing due to caster/camber, and bigger (2) air is getting under the car. Lowering will help, as will better quality shocks. Maybe a chin spoiler,too. Could go slower, but where's the fun in that?
I am about to order my springs and I have decided to go with the Eibach Pro-Kit. Now should I also order the Tokico D-Spec struts and dampers at the same time and do I really need a panhard bar? I don't know that much about this process so i'm looking to you guys to see if the information I have gathered makes a good conclusion.