i own a 05' GT w/ manual. I have added the K & N cool air intake and Flowmaster road thunder exhaust (which sounds awsome). I feel like ive lost some power. Im looking for suggestion on how to increase the acceleration and HP. Im looking for the least invasive upgrades so if i need work done i can change back and stay in warranty. also if ive made mods and go to the ford dealership to get all of my oil changes ect. are they going to log the changes down, which would void my warrnaty. any assistants would be great.
1) shorty antenna ($20)--stronger than stock, smooth, oem replacement, 14" gets same reception as stock, looks classy and sleek but still factory http://www.mustangtuning.com/14in-antenna.html
3)tinted light overlays (~$100 for all lights)--easy install if you take your dandy time and CLEAN first with alcohol, doesn't affect brake light intensity noticeably, "clean" look, removes red and orange from color scheme, cheap alternative to clear corners or new brake lights http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=47658
4)eibach sway bars ($400)--when combined with new tires and/or lowering springs it will result in a complete transformation of your car's handling. i can pass an m3 on an onramp now (on the outside), but that took a number of goodies together, one major one of which was sways (search online or go to your shop)
5)tint (~$200)--easiest way to make your car look cooler, and keep it a lil cooler in the process (less light=less heat). check local laws though (tint shop)
6)UD pullies ($250)--can be installed in your driveway with rented puller from autozone and a couple tools from the garage in an hour. easy 10 hp and 10 torque, and engine revs faster. improves mileage and increases life of accessories. http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/555-3305.htm
7)CA intake ($200-$400, + tuner)--JLT and C&L are the most popular, with JLT being the cheap and simple design (big pipe and big filter), and C&L being a classy and heavily R&D'd pipe design. the steeda and mrt are also common, though gains usually arent quite as big. the wms intake mounts forward and would work with a ram-air setup though none exist to my knowledge yet. the K&N intake is smaller but does not require a retune, though gains won't be nearly as big without one. a programmer is required to tune for all but the K&N. SCT Excalibrator2 is the most popular, but the Diablosport Predator offers essentially all the same features. SCT is favored by custom dyno-tune shops. the tuners will run $300-$400 most places, but discount "packages" are available. gains with intake alone (if the car will run without a tune) are generally 10-15 hp/tq. with a canned tune from evolution motorsports, bamachips, brenspeed, or others will usually net 20-25 hp/tq gains. with a custom dyno tune (another $300 on average), gains will often be 30-35 hp/tq. https://www32.ssldomain.com/jlttruecoldair/products.php?make=Ford&model=Mustang%20GT&year=2005-2006 http://www.cnlperformance.com/2005GT.html http://www.wmsracing.com/wmsweb/05hvi.htm http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=63-2565 http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/555-3120.htm http://mrt-direct.com/2005/Pages/induction.php
8)gears ($550 installed)--the MOST beneficial mod at the track for the money. gears will not increase power, but they will effectively increase torque at the ground through the process of "torque multiplication". you know how first gear accelerates faster than second at a given speed? gears will give every gear the feeling that it is half a gear less than it actually is. going with too "short" of a gear will reduce your car's top speed, though our stangs are geared for 200mph stock anyways, which it will never reach, in an attempt to improve highway gas mileage. 4.10:1 ratios are the most common for manuals and 3.73:1 is most common for automatics. i personally have 4.30s in mine and love it, even on the street, but my setup will not be everyone's cup of tea. traction will be a problem after changing gear ratios, but is nothing that better tires can't fix for the most part. ask anyone and they will agree that gears were the most "fun" mod to have done. get them done by a reputable shop to decrease chances of having "gear whine", a humming sound that fills the car and increases with speed, and to increase longevity of the gears. quarter mile times often drop anywhere from a few tenths up to or more than half a second (from stock) with just gears.
9)exhaust ($300-$1500)--just changing the mufflers (aka "axle-back") will not gain much if any power, but will improve sound. beyond that, one can swap the factory midpipe with either a catted (more likely to pass smog) or off-road (no catalytic converters) x or h pipe. an x pipe looks like that letter and physically joins both exhaust tubes to "cross paths". an h pipe will have seperate pipes with a really short connector between them ("H" shape). the difference will mainly be in sound between them, and both will gain 10-15 hp and similar torque. beyond that, one can change out the headers with either long tubes or shorties. shorties will give some power (10ish hp/tq) and make the exhaust sound more aggressive. long tubes will gain 20-30 hp/tq and make things really loud ("tear-a$$" when hitting the gas). with a full headers/midpipe/muffs exhaust it is recommended that you get a custom dyno tune to maximize power potential. just mufflers will be a couple hundred bucks, and full long tube setups will be around a thousand, not including installation.
10)new/sticky tires ($400 for two)--traction is by far the weakest link with our cars after a few mods. how are we supposed to put down 300rwhp to measly 235 all-weather tires? get some 275/40/17s on there, which is NOT too wide for our 8in rims, trust me. i have nitto 555r, which i recommend for their good grip and excellent price. MT ET Streets will cost a hair more and grip a bit better, but will not last as long and are less streetable. BFG also makes a street-legal drag radial, as well as KDW tires for longevity and a measurable increase in grip over stock.
11)aluminum driveshaft ($400-$1100 +install)--an aluminum driveshaft will take off 20-25 lbs from the car's static weight, and cut the moment of inertia of the driveshaft by 50% or more, resulting in an additional 10-15rwhp from decrease in parasitic drivetrain loss, and will easily knock one to two tenths off of your 1/4mile ET. When combined with pulleys and racing wheels, one can see up to 30rwhp/rwtq, and significant gains at the track. JPC makes a bolt-in unit, but requires a CV conversion joint. BMR makes an exotic carbon-fiber DS, but some argue that vibration could "unravel" it over time, in addition to its 1100$ pricetag. Others have found a cheaper alternative. taking the DS out of an explorer, and having a shop cut it and fabricate on the stock U-joints, balance it, etc can find you the same gains for $400 or close to it, assuming labor charges aren't rediculous and you supply said components to them. If you take this route, i highly recommend getting front and/or rear driveshaft safety loops in case something goes wrong, so you don't have a piece of metal shooting into the cabin at high speed...plus, you will need them if you break into the 12s anyway.
12)lowering springs--this belongs further up the list, but im tired of typing and someone else can address them.
13)most of this stuff from here on out is no longer basic modifications
< Message edited by Sleeper05 -- 6/1/2006 9:54:00 AM >
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05 gt: 12.54 @ 324rwhp/337rwtq Goodies on the way.
PR Manager for Automotive Dezignz MECP Installer and Mobile Product Specialist Mechanical/Manufacturing Engineer.
When you guys say CAI + tuner are you reffering to a device that flashes your ECU? If so is it sold as a package with certain CAI's?
CAI = Cold Air Intake (yes you can get one as a package.. around $575.00 to $700.00 with a hand held programmer).. everyone has their own one they like .. I have a C&L and I like it.. but you must have a dyno tune after it is installed (or a hand held tuner keep reading )... I think a C&L would give more HP because you HAVE to have the tune.. it can be done with a hand held tuner ( like a SCT or Diablo tuner ) but IMO .. it should be done at a dyno... .JMO on that...
best mod for the buck change the rear gears .. you will notice it BIG TIME.. if you need warranty work.. just put in your old gears .. I have all my stock stuff just in case anything would ever go wrong and I needed warranty work.. disconnect battery .. say it lost a charge.. codes cleared Ford can't tell anything.. lol :)
JMO
Rex
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06 GT Auto, Redfire Metallic, With ALL the toys.. C&L w/ SCT & custom tune. FRPP 3.73's.
When you guys say CAI + tuner are you reffering to a device that flashes your ECU? If so is it sold as a package with certain CAI's?
CAI = Cold Air Intake (yes you can get one as a package.. around $575.00 to $700.00 with a hand held programmer).. everyone has their own one they like .. I have a C&L and I like it.. but you must have a dyno tune after it is installed (or a hand held tuner keep reading )... I think a C&L would give more HP because you HAVE to have the tune.. it can be done with a hand held tuner ( like a SCT or Diablo tuner ) but IMO .. it should be done at a dyno... .JMO on that...
best mod for the buck change the rear gears .. you will notice it BIG TIME.. if you need warranty work.. just put in your old gears .. I have all my stock stuff just in case anything would ever go wrong and I needed warranty work.. disconnect battery .. say it lost a charge.. codes cleared Ford can't tell anything.. lol :)
JMO
Rex
Did you go with the 4.10 gears? After changing the gears did you change out the panhead?
when you guys are saying you need the tuner with the JLT and C&L CAI's how easy are these tuners to install? then is it fairly simple to operate them? thanks for the patience i am all new to this i just bought my mustang on tuesday.
I have an 06 GT, manual. Really like the looks and sound of the SLP Loudmouth axle back exhaust. Do I require ANY other modifications to change to this exhaust? All I really want is the looks and sound, without hurting performance, etc. Thanks, B.A.
I know the problem. I bought a 2005 GT last year and I've done the same test. The problem is linked to the air/fuel ratio. You have to modify the map of the electronic system to obtain a gain of rwhp.
HMMM... After reading all the Mods posts, I'm seriously considering keeping my '06 GT dead stock, I'm talking not even opening the airbox!! Don't get me wrong, I love hot-rodding vehicles...I have been an auto mechanic since 1984, I ride a Kawasaki 400 triple with Denco chambers and K&N's, my Saturn tow car has as 30 more HP than stock, I even tune my lawn mower!! Here are my reasons to keep it stock: 1. There is always someone faster than you. I would hate to get into a HP war with myself, every other modded mustang, and my wallet! 2. The car is really great without any changes! 3. I won't be a target for some disgruntled Ford service manager, bent on erasing GT warrantys, because he's sick of his technicians complaining about having to remove someone's CAI to get to a headlight bulb. 4. The best reason of all: When I suck the lights out of some import, I can truly say that my car is bone stock!! (I reserve the right to deny any claims made above at any further date, after all, horsepower is addictive!) CB
HMMM... After reading all the Mods posts, I'm seriously considering keeping my '06 GT dead stock, I'm talking not even opening the airbox!! Don't get me wrong, I love hot-rodding vehicles...I have been an auto mechanic since 1984, I ride a Kawasaki 400 triple with Denco chambers and K&N's, my Saturn tow car has as 30 more HP than stock, I even tune my lawn mower!! Here are my reasons to keep it stock: 1. There is always someone faster than you. I would hate to get into a HP war with myself, every other modded mustang, and my wallet! 2. The car is really great without any changes! 3. I won't be a target for some disgruntled Ford service manager, bent on erasing GT warrantys, because he's sick of his technicians complaining about having to remove someone's CAI to get to a headlight bulb. 4. The best reason of all: When I suck the lights out of some import, I can truly say that my car is bone stock!! (I reserve the right to deny any claims made above at any further date, after all, horsepower is addictive!) CB
Very good points. Not to get away from the real topic but i've always thought that racing someone stock is the true way to do it. Anyone can mod whatever car and beat you. Just like you said, there is always someone faster than you. You might have mods but someone will have more mods. Then you think well, if i had this i could beat 'em. Well, if that car had another mod it could beat you and so on and so on. The money people will spend to shave a millisecond off their time is crazy. I guess if you've got the money then go for it!
Having said that....i've done some mods myself but for my own pleasure. Just the easy, basic ones that have already been listed. I'm never getting into serious engine mods.
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'06 GT Vista Blue Premium Package C&L CAI Diablosport Predator 93 Octane Tune Corsa Axle-backs
The only thing I have done so far is tint the windows. However, I have a Hurst shifter on order. I like the short throw and the white ball look on muscle cars.
The only other thing I can see doing would be CAI/Tune, new rubber/wheels when my current tires get bald and possibly a 4.10 rear. But thats really about it. There is such a thing as over modding, and I dont want to do that. I just want a sharp, clean pony.
I have mostly Steeda mods: Steeda CAI/Excalibrator2 tune Steeda Under size pulleys Steeda Charge Motion Plate Delete Steeda Sport Shifter Ford Racing Headers Bassani X-pipe w/hi flo cats Bassani axle back exhaust
Just to folow up on this...does the SCT XCalibrator 2 Tuner come with a specific tune for say the C&L CAI vs. another manufacturer. I do not want to get involved with making adjustments on my own. So, I just want to confirm that these "tunes" are pre-packaged by someone who knows alot more about the overall ECU program then me.
Just as an FYI to everyone, I have installed the Hurst Competition Plus shifter on my '06 GT and I have to say I am not impressed. The shifter throw is definitely reduced, but the gear engagement is very rough. It feels as if you need to force the trans into gear instead of the easy engagement the stock shifter provided. I don't think it was worth the upgrade.
Usually no, but if you buy the XCal-2 from a dealer who does dyno tuning and sells the CAI of your choice and the XCal2 you can usually get the canned house tune for that CAI or engine component. The off the shelf XCal2 is an empty glass, you need to fill it with a custom program either purchased over the internet or supplied by your local SCT dyno tune shop.
Diablo's marketing is the opposite, they have partnered with several, O.K., virtually ALL of different makers of engine related components that will need a custom tune. Steeda, Vortech, Paxton, C&L etc. and ALL of these products have dedicated Diablo Predator part numbers for that specific brand of power enhancing component and they ALL have a set of custom tunes for the product line on the label. For example I bought a Steeda CAI and Steeda Diablo Predator hand held tuner, it had a Steeda part number and has Streeda specific firmware and Steeda tunes for all of the Steeda products that need a custom tune. I got tunes for the Steeda 90mm MAF CAI kit with 87, 89 and 93 octane along with tunes for the Steeda CMCP and other tunes that allow you to adjust the factory program ignition and fuel calibrations. This version firmware is only good for Steeda equiped cars and is updated regularly. I recently updated my old, original Steeda CAI that shipped with an 85mm MAF housing to the latest 90mm MAF housing. To use the new larger 90mm MAF housing I had to update my Diablo tuner's firmware to the latest version. I downloaded and updated the tuner and flashed the car's ECU and it really made the car much more responsive and it was much sharper than stock with the original Steeda 85mm MAF tunes.
Hope this helps!
Cheers
quote:
ORIGINAL: sty
Just to folow up on this...does the SCT XCalibrator 2 Tuner come with a specific tune for say the C&L CAI vs. another manufacturer. I do not want to get involved with making adjustments on my own. So, I just want to confirm that these "tunes" are pre-packaged by someone who knows alot more about the overall ECU program then me.
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2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it fit, but just ask if interested!
I'm new to the forum and I got my 06 manual GT in February. I've only put Magnaflow axle backs on my car and that's it. I'm having a Hurst shifter instaled in the next couple of days and wondered if I'm doing the right thing after reading your comments. I've dry shifted several hurst shifters and it feels great, but have not driven any. Did you install it yourself or a shop. No insult intended, just curiuos. There's a dealership near where I work and they have a performance shop accross the street that literally does about anything to there Fords and they said it would be warranted for 36K/3yr..?? Looking forward to your reply
Hi Gunther51, None taken. I did have it installed by a shop, but let me clarify. I don't think it is damaging anything. It is just a completely different feel. I think because the Hurst shifter has a shorter shifter handle you lose some leverage and it requires more force to enage the gears. I would be interested to know if you experience the same. Maybe mine was installed incorrectly or not correctly set up, but I don't think their is much configuration to it. It appeared to be strictly a bolt-in replacement.
If you do move forward with installing it, which since you are on these forums I am sure you will, please let me know what you think.
quote:
ORIGINAL: gunther51
Hi sty,
I'm new to the forum and I got my 06 manual GT in February. I've only put Magnaflow axle backs on my car and that's it. I'm having a Hurst shifter instaled in the next couple of days and wondered if I'm doing the right thing after reading your comments. I've dry shifted several hurst shifters and it feels great, but have not driven any. Did you install it yourself or a shop. No insult intended, just curiuos. There's a dealership near where I work and they have a performance shop accross the street that literally does about anything to there Fords and they said it would be warranted for 36K/3yr..?? Looking forward to your reply
Printable Version
RE: Basic Mods for your 05/06 GT - 
RE: Basic Mods for your 05/06 GT - 
CB
RE: Basic Mods for your 05/06 GT - 
