Posts: 7155
Joined: 4/27/2004 From: I live in Canada, eh Status: offline
THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION WAS WRITTEN UP AND SUBMITTED BY our member Swieduwi
Thanks Swieduwi
REPLACING THE STOCK THROTTLE BODY
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1. Loosen the hose clamp securing the factory molded intake hose to the factory throttle body. 2. Remove the intake hose from the throttle body. 3. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the TPS sensor and the throttle motor. 4. Loosen and remove the (2) bolts and (2) nuts securing the throttle body to the intake manifold. 5. Make sure that the factory rubber o-ring style gasket remains in the intake manifold. If it falls out simply put it back in. 6. Take the factory throttle body and place on a flat surface and remove the TPS sensor which is located on the passenger side of the throttle body. 7. Install the TPS sensor onto the GMS Billet Throttle Body. Make sure to orientate the sensor in the same direction as it was when installed on the factory throttle body. 8. Remove the (5) screws securing the gear cover and throttle motor to the factory throttle body. Do not remove the (2) Phillips head screws that secures the motor cover. 9. Carefully separate the gear cover from the throttle body by slowly lifting the cover away from the throttle body. You will notice that an internal spring is still engaged. By carefully tilting the gear cover/motor assembly at a slight angle rotate the assembly clock-wise until the spring pressure is released and the spring tang is also released from the inner gear. Lift the cover/motor assembly fully away from the throttle body and set aside. If the throttle return spring releases and falls out once the pressure is relieved, this is okay. 10. If the throttle return spring with plastic locking cap became separated from the gear cover during the previous step it must now be re-inserted into position in the gear cover.
Thumbnail Image 11. Looking down onto the cap, notice the (2) different width locking tangs. Position these tangs into the corresponding slots of the throttle return spring pocket in the gear cover. Apply pressure in a slight counter-clockwise rotation to lock the tangs into position.
Thumbnail Image 12. Carefully position the gear cover with throttle return spring over the throttle body throttle shaft. Align the throttle return spring so that the metal tang aligns with the hole in the recessed area of the throttle shaft gear. Be sure to engage the metal spring tang into the hole through the gear. Note: If the gear cover assembly has a cap over the throttle return spring follow steps A - D Skip step 13 and 14 A. Use a small screw driver the pry open the lid at the latch
Thumbnail Image B. Replace the cover on the throttle body, once aligned press both assemblies together and secure with the (5) screws originally removed in step 8 C. Using a screw dirver, Apply pressure in a slight counter-clockwise approximate ¾ of a revolution to lock the tangs into position
Thumbnail Image D. Replace the spring cover.
Skip step 13 and 14 13. Gently rotate the gear cover assembly in a counter-clockwise rotation approximate ¾ of a revolution until the cover realigns with the throttle body. Note:This step can be accomplished much easier if the throttle return spring is stretched in length approx. ¼ inch longer than stock. This will allow both sets of tangs to stay engaged while rotating. 14. Once aligned press both assemblies together and secure with the (5) screws originally removed in step 8. Rotate the throttle shaft throughout its full range of motion by moving the throttle blades with your finger. Check that there are no areas of bind and that the movement is smooth.
15. Place your GMS Billet Throttle Body up to the intake manifold and secure with the original hardware. Do not over tighten as you may pull the threaded inserts from the composite manifold. 16. Re-attach the intake hose to the throttle body and tighten the hose clamp. 17. Reconnect the electrical connectors to the TPS sensor and the throttle motor. 18. Start engine and make sure idle is normal. Depress accelerator and check for smooth feel and operation. 19. Close hood and have fun!
Note: The first time you start the engine is may rev high then shut off, this is the computer adjusting for an increase flow of air
< Message edited by MikeHawke -- 12/3/2005 12:52:01 PM >
Posts: 186
Joined: 6/29/2005 From: No. Virginia Status: offline
Ok, I am going to be unbias so as not to cause any flameing here, I am posting my Dyno that I had done with the Throttle Body and K&N CAI installed not other mods. and a SCT XCAL II Tune from Excessive Motorsport here in Manassas Virginia. unfourtunatly I do not have a baseline dyno, But on Average a 2005 Mustang GT with and Automatic trans comes stock with about 255 RWHP. Now the K&N Aircharger advertised Estimated Horsepower Gain: 15.26 HP @ 6000 RPM and the Advertised HP Gain from the Billit 62mm Throttle Body is 8 HP So without a baseline I can not say I have made any Gains from the TB as you can see from my dyno I only have a 15hp gain after a tune. I have done tests on another car and it only gained 2-3 hp with the TB and tune.
I did get a snappier throttle response before the tune as well as after (SCT took care of most of that) But the dual 55 mm stock orifices are equal to one 77.78 mm total air intake. 77.78 is still a pretty big hole for a little 4.6 engine
In my opinion; if you are not going to get a tuner but you want the same gains from one, then the TB and K&N Air Charger would be my picks, but a good tune and CAI fixes most of the throttle and performance issues.
Also Both the K&N and Throttle Body advertise that no tune is required I was told by ford that if you disconnect the battery when doing these mods, the computer will compensate for the A/F Mix and will not run lean. (Please no flames) just passing on what I was told, period.
Ok, I have heard the good, bad and ugly about T/B's. I have a MOTOBLUE on mine along with a few other things. My tuner liked the T/B after he figured out how to tune to it. Here ya go - 304.83 rwhp/ 333.16 rwtq
Thanks for the great write up. I installed my Motoblue TB and did not set the tensioner properly so i occasionally get a little weird flow on idle. I will print your instructions and go back and attempt to set it properly.
Another issue possibly related. I did initially see better throttle response after install and then as a week passed my throttle got "laggy" again. I have about a 1-2 sec delay between when i floor it and when the throttle really opens. I had initially gotten rid of a lot of throttle lag when i did my predator tune but it seems to come back. I guess its that spanish oak processor or the computer or whatever anyway I HATE IT. So do you think I need to just disconnect that battery and reset the computer? will that help maybe or do i need to get a custom tune. I'm not an expert but I have tried to tweak the predator and have had pretty good success, but it seems like as time passes my throttle lag comes back its strange.
I have not gotten on a dyno yet, that may help, if i knew my A/F ratio then i would have a clearer idea of what to do.
Okay, am I the only one that hates his motoblue? Installed it, with the batt. disconnected,etc. set the trottle spring one click. Fired up car, let it run ten minutes like they said. Then after turning it off, started it and drove it. Horrible. Rough, can't maintain a decent steady rpm. Also triggered the failsafe mode on the engine. Will not idle even, hunts and seeks. Car ran great before this change. Have C&L intake, Diablo tuner (with the 91 octane tune) and slightly better exhaust (bassalini x pipe&magnaflow cat back). I tried again tonight driving it, after disconnecting the battery again for more than 12 hours. Same thing.Failsafe again. I tried to carfeully put some highway miles on it to maybe let it learn and settle in(after hitting reset), but to no avail. Tried adding a click to throttle spring, no change so I moved it back. Real slow to come down from revs,too. Makes shifting fun...I don't know what to change on the tuner, this is out of my scope of things. Anyone else have simular problems and if so , how did you cure them? If at all. Appreciate the help as the car is virtually undrivable right now.
I got the Granatelli 62mm throttle body for my 06 GT. I have the C&L racer intake with predator tune and underdrive pullies. The computer did not like the throttle body. Every time I put in the clutch, the engine would rev up to 2500 RPM. I had to ride the brakes in the parking deck because the car did not want to run at a slower RPM. The car ran very erratically sine putting on the TB. The check engine light came on, too. I fiddled with it but had no luck. I returned it and put on the original TB.
Mine acted a little funky before the custom Diablo dyno tune. I still get a little idle fluxuation on occasion, but only a very slight one. As for the throttle response, it has been great and I have done about 600 miles since the tune. I did get a prototype T/B that came off of the dyno at Motoblue. It should be the same as the production unit as far as I know. I have heard a lot of complaints about T/B changes in general, but knock on wood, I am not really having the same issues. The Spanish Oak definately is in a class of it's own to say the least, so maybe they jumped the gun on the T/B upgrades before getting a clear picture of how the processor would react long term.
I went to a local Chipmaster Revolution tuner who did a custom Diablo dyno tune. He worked with Motoblue and Diablosport via internet and landline to build the proper tune. It was a challenge, but the final result was outstanding as you can see on the dyno sheet earlier in this string..
< Message edited by MusiccityGT -- 2/18/2006 5:20:56 PM >
Longhaul, I am still battling with my TB. The car does not like it and I am having the exact same problems you are. Tried reseting the tension and now i'm idling too high and getting check engine lights too. I'm not sure what i'm going to try next, let me know if you have any success.
Hi guys, I to installed the moto blue Tb. I also received the p2106,p2111 codes. Rough idles and even had no thottle reponse. It really about the installion. Then spring tension has to be just right. If you screw up the TPS or damage it like I did then forget. I finally got a good tuner shop(Dyno Shop in Santee,Ca) to reset the spring tention and Dyno it for me. I works great now. Need to drive it for 50 miles to adjust. I rarely get a rough idle of stickly rev.
Posts: 21
Joined: 10/8/2003 From: United States Status: offline
The codes you got before are P2106 - Throttle Acuator Control System Forced Idle & P 2111 - Throttle Acutator Stuck Open. The P 2106 is just a fail safe code - It will clear. The P 2111 is a simple adjustment of the idle screw. The blades were stuck to far open; a simple 1/2 counter clockwise will solve most issues with code and drivablity.
quote:
ORIGINAL: DStang05
Hi guys, I to installed the moto blue Tb. I also received the p2106,p2111 codes. Rough idles and even had no thottle reponse. It really about the installion. Then spring tension has to be just right. If you screw up the TPS or damage it like I did then forget. I finally got a good tuner shop(Dyno Shop in Santee,Ca) to reset the spring tention and Dyno it for me. I works great now. Need to drive it for 50 miles to adjust. I rarely get a rough idle of stickly rev.
How has this impacted your gas mileage. Its funny that the CAI advertisements claim improved gas mileage. Exactly how when you are going to increase you fuel intake as well as your air intake?
I HAD A 62MM THROTTLE BODY INSTALLED ON MY 05 GT, AND HAD MANY PROBLEMS ALSO! IT ALSO WENT INTO FAILSAFE MODE AND WAS VIRTUALLY UNDRIVEABLE TOO! HAD TO TAKE IT TO A DEALER AND THEY HAD TO PUT A NEW STOCK THROTTLE BODY ON AND IT ALSO BLEW THE PCM ON THE CAR! THIS WAS PROFESSIONALLY INSTALLED, SO YES I AM IN AGREEMENT THAT IT MAY NOT BE WORTH ALL THE RISK FOR REWARD ON THIS MOD JUST YET!
Above it was written that the "dual 55 mm stock orifices are equal to one 77.78 mm total air intake." Forgive my ignorance but why doesn't it eaqual 110 MM (2x55)? Can anyone tell me?
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Eibach Pro Springs CDC Shaker taillight black plate thingy Hurst Shifter louvers sides and rear painted stripes
Okay, am I the only one that hates his motoblue? Installed it, with the batt. disconnected,etc. set the trottle spring one click. Fired up car, let it run ten minutes like they said. Then after turning it off, started it and drove it. Horrible. Rough, can't maintain a decent steady rpm. Also triggered the failsafe mode on the engine. Will not idle even, hunts and seeks. Car ran great before this change. Have C&L intake, Diablo tuner (with the 91 octane tune) and slightly better exhaust (bassalini x pipe&magnaflow cat back). I tried again tonight driving it, after disconnecting the battery again for more than 12 hours. Same thing.Failsafe again. I tried to carfeully put some highway miles on it to maybe let it learn and settle in(after hitting reset), but to no avail. Tried adding a click to throttle spring, no change so I moved it back. Real slow to come down from revs,too. Makes shifting fun...I don't know what to change on the tuner, this is out of my scope of things. Anyone else have simular problems and if so , how did you cure them? If at all. Appreciate the help as the car is virtually undrivable right now.
It might not be the Throttle body that is making your car laggy, rough, unstable RPM's. It is more then likely the failsafe mode. I read in the owner’s manual that Failsafe mode has to do with the engine coolant and heating, when the car is in failsafe mode with will not produce as much power the engine may be clunky and steering and braking can be degraded. It does this to protect the engine from over heating, something may be tripping the computer into thinking it should be in this mode. I had it happen with one of my tunes, which i sent back and has since been corrected.
Dont know if this helps but its what I know of Failsafe mode
Cheers
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Steve
2005 V6 red fire 4.0, Manual, Shaker 500, IUP Superchips, K&N Airchager CAI, Flowmaster axle-back AT, Hurst Pro Comp Shifter, Tint, SilverHorse Honeycomb Rear Panel, 18" Fast - Blade rims and BF Goodrich G-Force KDW's T/A NT - 245/45ZR18
It seems to me that since all these large bore thorttle body manufacturures claim there is no tune necessary, what they are really doing to get their horsepower is tricking the computer. By allowing more air to enter the engine than the MAF sensor read, you are effectivally leaning the engine out and its my guess that the factory tune is somewhere rich of a stoichiometric ratio. The tricked engine therefore runs closer to a stoichiometric ratio. Now combine that with the bigger air intake (and non factory tune) and now you have a potential problem. The tune that came with your air intake settup is probably closer to stoichiometric value. with the larger throttle body on the non factory tune you probably exceeded lean limit and the computer goes into limp home mode. I would contact the maker of the either or both the throttle body or the air intake and ask if they have a tune for this set up.
Now back to my question: why does 2x55 = 77 and not 110?
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Eibach Pro Springs CDC Shaker taillight black plate thingy Hurst Shifter louvers sides and rear painted stripes
Printable Version
TECH: replacing the stock throttle body - 
RE: TECH: replacing the stock throttle body - 
