Hey guys Im the VERY proud new owner of an 02 s281. seeing as how this car is my first manual transmission, I was wondering if any of you had any tips/tricks to offer me when it comes to acceleration, not stalling, reversing, down shifting etc. ive gottne the hang of it pretty well so far but Im just looking for as much advice as possible. thanks
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Joined: 3/15/2004 From: VA Status: offline
the only thing i do that some people dont, is when i downshift, i blip the throttle to match the revs to the next gear. takes some gettin used to, but when u do, its wonderful. good luck. congrats on the purchase. btw, is it an extreme or "just" an s281
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"it aint braggin mother f**ker if you back it up"
'92 GT-bbk shorties, bbk o/r h-pipe, 2.5" flowmaster 2-chambers, Pro 5.0 shifter, march underdrives
all i do when i downshift is when i'm at 2,00 to 2,500 i down shift and that sends it up to 3,000-3,500. that if i am just driving around, now if i'm really screwring around then you downshift an keep the rpms up at like 4,500-6,000 and have some fun in the turns and crap
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1990 Hatch 4 cylinder auto red interior 83,000 (only $400)
convert to 2.3T 5 speed some time...along with a nice new black paint job
That's not it. It has to do with using your heel on the clutch and toes on the break when your downshifting to slow you down but while your doing that you try to match the revs when you downshift. Using the heel of your hand. lol.
just a little off topic here, hows the power in your s281? my engine is outta an 01 s281, and i got a series 2 blower im gonna install over winter. how much boost is yours running at? as for shifting, my car shifts perfectly when i really floor it, its wierd.
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96' GT: 01 s281e motor vortech s trim aftercooled 88' Lx convertible 96' hyundai elantra
That's not it. It has to do with using your heel on the clutch and toes on the break when your downshifting to slow you down but while your doing that you try to match the revs when you downshift. Using the heel of your hand. lol.
what is the point of that? i just downshift and use the brake, and I stop just fine.
Heel-toeing is using your Left foot on the clutch, using your heel of your right foot to brake, and your toes on your right foot to throttle. If you're on any sort of road course racing, this helps keep the RPMs up while downshifting, while you're braking to go into a corner.
The reason for this, when you're running road races, you should be braking and turning at just about 100% of your traction, so if you just jam the shifter into a lower gear, the engine braking would cause the rear wheels to lock up, and you'd be out of business.
Combined with double clutching, it makes for some real smooth turns and downshifts
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1994 GT Vert
For Sale or Trade: 390 Long Block w/ forged pistons and rods unassembled. PM me if interested, $350obo, or looking to trade for perf. parts (intake, heads, exhaust) or wheels (mach 1, cobra)
Posts: 3528
Joined: 5/24/2005 From: New Jersey!!! Status: offline
just like above its is mainly used for road race applications. when in a road race you always want to be in gear before entering the coner, and you never brake in the corner cuz thats when u get all squirly. so you gatta downshift and brake at the same time. if you ever come across a video of a road racers feet when doing this, it is amazing. they do it so fast and perfect. heal toeing works better at higher RPMs.
when the NASCAR circut gets to the road race tracks they sometimes put a camera in Terri Labonties car pionting at his feet. very interesting and mind blowing if you dont know how to drive stick.
lets say your in 5ft coming up to a corner(hauling ass), you start to brake. now its time to down shift to set up for the corner. you throw in the clutch, put er' in 4th, take your toes off the brake leaving the heal on the brake, and tape the gas to match the revs up to the correct PRM so the engine matches the speed of the rest of the drive train. and let off the clutch.
Team MF Member #001 Posts: 2392
Joined: 8/1/2005 From: Whitehall, Michigan Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: downwardspiral
awesome, now I'm gonna blow up my tranny trying to learn how to do this. Oh and double clutching is...?
...not necessary because of lighter transmissions and synchronizers, but:
While shifting through neutral, letting go of the clutch so the engine slows down to match the speed of the new gear better so the shift is more smooth.
Lets say you're in second gear, going to third and are going to double clutch. You get to your top speed in second, push the clutch in and push the shifter up into neutral, now you let go of the clutch for about half a second, press it back in, go up into third, then let go of the clutch again.
Seems pointless with synchronizers because they match the speeds up for you, but if you didn't have them, this is what you would need to do, what a hassle.
Posts: 3528
Joined: 5/24/2005 From: New Jersey!!! Status: offline
some people also call powershifting, double clutching. double clutching is completly usless with trannies these days, very old cars and truck had to do it.
and power shifting is not taking you foot off the gas while shifting, and just railing it into gear. very fast but if you miss, your going to redline.
That's true about the double clutching, but i've found that it helps make smoother downshifts, could just be that the engine in the RSX type S that i drive has very low rotating mass, but if i downshift and rev match and drop the clutch out without double clutching, it gets a little jerky
< Message edited by waxyourboard -- 11/24/2005 3:35:35 PM >
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1994 GT Vert
For Sale or Trade: 390 Long Block w/ forged pistons and rods unassembled. PM me if interested, $350obo, or looking to trade for perf. parts (intake, heads, exhaust) or wheels (mach 1, cobra)
wtf is the point of downshifting? Its just waisting more gas, Just put it into neutral and use the brakes.
Like we said before... road racing circuits, or if you feel like making a turn and powering out of it... instead of braking, turning, then shifting into gear and accelerating, overall it makes for a smoother turn
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1994 GT Vert
For Sale or Trade: 390 Long Block w/ forged pistons and rods unassembled. PM me if interested, $350obo, or looking to trade for perf. parts (intake, heads, exhaust) or wheels (mach 1, cobra)