Just finished taking on my friends 97' stock cobra with my new GT. He use to have a 98 cobra with a supercharger, bassini xpipes and flowmaster 40s so he is a pretty experienced driver. I'm new to the scene and he is showing me the ropes. Went at it twice, first time he got the jump and increased it as we went.
Second time was a better race
We take off and stay head to head, I shift to second gear at 5500 rpms though, I notice he doesn't shift to second for a few more seconds. When I shifted to second he gained about half a car on me and increased it as we went on.
After it was over he tells me that his Cobra doesn't redline until after 7000 rpms. My GT redlines just before 6000 rpms.
Was fun !
Taking suggestions for mods under $1200 or so... Any takers ?
Posts: 2199
Joined: 3/31/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Nitrous and sticky tires.
Those mods people are suggesting are great.....but when you toss in nitrous into the equation (cheap power additive), how are you going to transfer that to the ground if your tires are always spinning?
Posts: 245
Joined: 5/27/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Ok, I know that your comment jeep is in fact quite a questionable one. You said that nitrous isn't any more harmful than a supercharger? I beg to differ. Forcing air into a motor and throwing a cold shot to it are two totally different things, correct? I've NEVER heard of ANYBODY blowing a motor because of their supercharger. But I infact hear of guys always blowing motors that are running nitrous. I'm around the racing environment all the time, and trust me, I know what nitrous and superchargers do to street cars. I'm sorry, but nitrous isn't the way to go for the street. Superchargers would definitely be much better. Benefits even come from them. Increased gas milage, instant power... I just still can't see putting nitrous on a street car and expecting it to last as long as a motor with a supercharger. Believe me, that WON'T happen. Nitrous is definitely a lot cheaper, only 1/10 the cost of a supercharger, but I would rather pay the extra dollars for an extended car life. Just my $.02.
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Joined: 3/31/2003 From: United States Status: offline
If you've never heard of ANYBODY blowing a motor due to boost then you don't get out much.
Boost is forcing more oxygen into a motor. Nirtous also does the same, except the nitrous and oxygen bond is seperated under heat and pressure (read: combustion chamber).
Either way, more air and more fuel find it's way into the combustion chamber. The difference is one is 200+ degrees F while the other is approx. 30ish.
I would honestly put my cash on the nitrous motor. Why? Because you don't use it all the time. You do with boost. The added wear and tear are active everytime it's running. With nitrous, it's only there for a short period of time.
Those idiots that blew their motors....lemmie guess, they tried a 400 shot on a stock block . It took some beefy ass bottom end on the Chevelle to contain all that. Wound up being a pushrod that broke first.
Posts: 2033
Joined: 5/22/2003 From: Newport News, Va Status: offline
mr. jeep said it. when you hear of or see people blowing motors on nitrous, its almost always because they used too much, or didn't use it properly. most kits nowadays offer safety features, like an automatic cutoff switch if the air/fuel mixture get too lean. a co worker of mine, who happens to be in kuwait, has a 99 honda civic DX. he has an iceman intake, a tannabe cat back, and a properly tuned msd ignition. he's been running a 60 shot of ZEX for a while now, has about 35K on the clock, and has never had any problems. if you don't make the proper adjustments/modifcations, yea your gonna blow your motor. if you set it up properly and use it properly, you'll be fine.
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Joined: 3/31/2003 From: United States Status: offline
ewwww hamster....
I'm looking to get a NX wet kit. It injects nitrous and gasoline into the mixture. A lot of people think this is bad, but I fail to see why. The funny thing is: most of these people are using carbs, which pass fuel through the intake manifold anywho.
The reason why I'm looking at a wet kit is simple: It doesn't rely upon the stock fuel injectors to keep my motor running. My injectors are much smaller than a 'Stangs, and will lock up faster. If I take the load off of those, then I only need to worry about fuel puddling.
Fuel puddling is an issue that has caused many folks to push the dry kits. However, it is extremely rare. Usually, it happens because a WOT switch is not installed and is accidently activated during a shift. When the user hits the gas again, and the nitrous...boom, big ass back fire. That's user error, not kit fault. It is also an issue when running huge shots, like 300 and the like. The fuel and nitrous are so thick that if there's any crease, imperfection, ect., it finds it and forms a mini-puddle. We had that on cylinder #4 (go figure...shortest path to the carb, shoulda been more like #1 or #8) when we were carb'd and juiced on the Chevelle and running high 9's. A little work with a dremel solved all of that.
Something to look at as some accessories:
bottle heater~keeps the proper PSI for the system to work optimally
blow down tube~keeps your car from blowing up should the seal on the bottle fail
remoter opener~don't have to run to the trunk to twist the bottle open
nitrous pressure gauge~lets you know when to fill up and when your system isn't just right
nitrous controler~can be either time or RPM/load based, will inject less/more nitrous as needed to keep power AND traction
Nitrous is just as dangerous as a blower.
Do not go thinking that putting boost into your motor it will last forever. It will probably last a decent amount of time (stock) at single digit boost, and with double you're looking at rebuilds every now and then. You need to tune
Posts: 52
Joined: 5/21/2003 From: United States Status: offline
You guys are foreting the fundamental poperties of the internal combustion engine...Nitrous is much harder on the engine, because the air charge is so cold. Also, your intorducing a 33% oxygen rich gas into the combustion, which is more than a supercharger, also, the power comes on instantly, meaning that the initial stresses (starting rotational torques and forces) are much higher due to the impact factor of the insant charge.imagine it like this...you take a board and apply bricks to it untill it breaks...now take the same board and hit it with a sledge hammer...your doing the same thing. Both are harder on your engine than nothing at all....but Nitrous is deffinately harder on your overall package than forced induction....But then again....What a wild ride....
Posts: 90
Joined: 5/12/2003 From: United States Status: offline
I agree with White Saleen's comments. I've had N20 on my 5.0 street car and it was a royal pain. It made good power but for me the hassle was way too much. Too many times I'd be up against someone I had no idea how much power they had. So I'd engage the N20 and would end up chewing them up. Wasting expensive N20. Then when a serious racer was next to me it would never fail the bottle was below 1/2 full and power was crap losing me the race. Screw that. I bolted on a Vortech and have more power every stomp on the gas. Don't think if you're losing a race you can just engage the N20 to blow past them(maybe in Fast N Furious land). Trying to make up ground on a car that's ahead of you takes much more than a small shot of N20. If you're worried about NOS or a blower ruining your engine you shouldn't be racing your car. That's part of the business regardless of power adder.
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Joined: 5/27/2003 From: United States Status: offline
See, there's a perfect example of what Nitrous is good for!! (blown91vert) And as for me not getting out very much jeep, I think it's you that doesn't get yourself to the strip much. I'm not going to lie to you... I've NEVER seen a motor blow (street car) with a supercharger. I see it all the time with Nitrous users. Period. And just like fast4rds1 said, Nitrous IS harder on a motor because of the immediate shot of cold temp. How could that be good? I don't understand all the languages you're speaking about % of this, and % of that, but it sounds like you just read this stuff out of a book or something. Bottom line, Nitrous is harder on a motor, no matter how good it is tuned, or how small a shot it is. If you talk about a smaller shot, then compare apples to apples, like to a smaller blower. And a lot of the people that have their motors blown from Nitrous have their work professionally done, and "TUNED to perfection"... I've yet to see one blow with a blower. I'm not saying it's impossible, ANYTHING is possible. Anything adding a lot of extra horses like that does more damage than stock, but more than likely, if you go to the track and see all the guys running their cars, you're going to see more motors blow with nitrous. And you're wrong about something else... Vortech says that their superchargers do not engage until the throttle is hit hard, i.e., for racing purposes. So it's not really that different from nitrous, other than it has many more benefits than nitrous. Oh well, guess we all have our own opinions, but some things are just facts!
Posts: 52
Joined: 5/21/2003 From: United States Status: offline
I call BS...But whatever. Ive seen alot more cars myself blown from Nitrous, as a matter of fact, almost every car ive ever known that has used nitrous has blown it because of the nitrous. Funny isnt it that you throw a 400 shot and dont have any trouble...Im sorry jeep but I wonder if you even understand what the whole cold argument is, and if you realize that for a daily driven car, A blower is definately the way to go. Blowers do not produce signifigant boost untill you really get on it and "build" the boost, and it comes on with the engine, much easier on the components, from the valves to the rear end. Nitrous is an addative that will increase you hp for sure, and has its place, but it in the place of people with deep pockets for engine rebuilds. Remmber folks, the money you save getting into the 10's on gas will be spent later on engine rebuilds. Same for Forced induction, but not as often or as extensive.
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Joined: 3/31/2003 From: United States Status: offline
I do understand the cold argument.
The thing that fries most juiced motors is the instant power, it isn't weaned in like a blown or turbo'd motor (unless you have a controler).
The motor that was jetted at a 400 shot as a 454 Big Block Chevy, punched/stroked to 502 cubic inches. All forged internals and a nitrous controler. The motor was built for the punch. Unfortunately, the pushrods weren't up to the task (well, at least one wasn't).
Centrifugal blowers aren't known for their low end power. Roots are. They also put out a wicked punch at high RPM's. That's the way I would go if I had to go with a blower.
Printable Version
2003 GT VS 1997 Cobra (both st - ![""]("http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
. It took some beefy ass bottom end on the Chevelle to contain all that. Wound up being a pushrod that broke first.
