Ok, long post I know, but I am at my wits end and since you all have been such a huge help so far, I figured what the heck, see what they think.
First of all, even though I am a woman, I do know some about cars, so don't think I am nuts when I tell you what's going on.
We bought the 72 with a 302, manual transmission, stock carb two weeks ago. The day we brought her home she started stalling out on us. 1. We changed all the fuel filters and drained the gas, it looked clean so we put it all back together. Still stalling when we push in the clutch at a stop sign, idles rough. 2. Change plugs and wires. Idles good, still stalling. 3. Take off sending unit in tank, clean and eventually take off tank and spend two hours cleaning it as well. 4. Rebuild carb, blow out fuel lines, new filters, new fuel pump, all back together...idles OK, spring a water leak in radiator (i know, we are tired by now, too) 5. Fix leak, find another, spend a whole day patching with JB Weld and putting back together. 6. Drive her and she starts hesitating when you get in the gas...cutting out, jerking, like she is running out of gas. 7. Take her home and proceed to take everything off to change timing chain. 8. Still taking everything off. 9. Got chain, put it on, put everything back together thanks to Soaring and the others here who answered our questions. 10. Drove it yesterday...still acts like it is starving for gas and has another leak in the radiator too.
Now that we have exhausted ourselves, me typing and you reading, what do you think is wrong? Is the timing still off or is it the carb? When we cleaned the tank it was full of rust and junk but we replaced or rebuilt everything from the tank up...
Thanks ya'll....
I am off to a volleyball game, will check in later
< Message edited by newownerof72 -- 9/12/2005 4:30:21 PM >
Posts: 1116
Joined: 5/6/2005 From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL Status: offline
first off, i think it's awesome to see a women in this field, next im still a newbie but here are my guesses. Could the spark plug gaps be off or the distributor. Timing for spark may be off. I thought sometihng could be funny with the tranny. ex, not applying enoguh gas when releasing the clutch expcept now it's while already in gear. And my final guess: could the camshaft be screwed up? Misaligned/worn?
i wish i could help more but like i said im a nub.
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You know you've found the right job when your boss drives a 5.0 and builds cobra kit cars.
Still having problems with her are you? Now that you most likely have the dirty gas issue solved, you more than likely have a timing or some kind of ignition issue. Have you taken off the dizzy cap and looked at it to see if maybe there is a crack in it? Get us back up to speed as to what ignition you have....points or electronic? If it is points, at what gap do you have them set? If it were mine, I'd replace all the ignition components to include the points, condenser, rotary and cap along with the spark plug wires. Then I would put in new plugs. Ya know, it is amazing how many times even the condenser that goes bad will cause these kinds of problems. So, instead of trying to isolate the ignition problem, I would just get it all replaced with new stuff. Reset the timing by using a timing light after you replace the points. The timing should be about 8-10 degrees BTDC, or you can set it by ear. Advance it as much as you can before it pings, then back off a few degrees. Now, on the other hand, you may have a carb problem. If it were mine, and the new ignition stuff didn't solve the problem, I would replace the carb with a rebuilt one. Hang in there gal. You will eventually solve the problem, then you will thoroughly enjoy that Mustang.
I if I read and understand correctly the car seems to run fine when idling and the stalling problems occur when she's driven? This seems to me like a timing problem. Also have you gone back and checked all the vacuum lines?
Off topic..1/28 for a birthday is cool...mine is also the 28th. Good luck!!
If it is stalling while moving, It could be the vacuum advance not acting right. So is it running good while sitting? and another question relating to the timing chain. Did you remove the oil pan with the timing chain cover. My book says you are supposed to, but i didn't. So now im going to put it back to together with a whole bunch of permatex and maybe some gasket material and hope to god it doesn't leak.
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2000 GT Mustang Convertible
1966 Mustang coupe- all original, soon to be 4v swap.
I had almost the same problem when I first got my mustang. The minute you stepped on the gas, it would sputter and die unless you immediately pulled off. I thought for sure it was a carb problem, but it turned out to be an ignition problem. Change the points on your distributor, and gap them correctly.
The minute you stepped on the gas, it would sputter and die unless you immediately pulled off.
I just had that problem as well and for me it was the carb. When we tore the carb apart to rebuild it we noticed that one of the gaskets fell off and was allowing the carb to suck more air then it needed, which would make it die when you stepped on it due to the engine not getting a proper air/fule mixture.
Thanks everybody, we are defintely going to check the timing again.
We have ordered a rebuilt carb, a 2 barrel Holley.
We didn't take the oil pan off when we redid the timing chain, but also used a bunch of gasket sealer, I will check that out.
I am picking up my Chilton's manual today at the local part store, in my hick town no one had one on the shelf. But then again, no one has a car like mine, either. :)
When we get the manual we will do the points and vacuum lines, just to make sure. Carb won't be here until Friday or Saturday but I will let you guys know how it's going every step of the way.
Thanks again, Ya'll have a great Day, I am off to my European Politics Class,
this might probably be waaaay too easy guys, but i had that exact same problem on another car and it was just the connections on the battery that were corroded like Fck, changed the clamps on it and ran like new... worth checking out anyway, i'd say....
two more remarks:
a carb rebuild can be done by yourself partswise, but if you really want all the little pipes and holes really clean, get the carb cleaned in a microwave cleaner, that gets EVERYTHING loose and out.
don't know this JBweld stuff, but it sounds like an additive in a bottle that fixes leaks in radiators. please don't go there unless you really have to to get home. it messes more stuff up trhan it will help you along, thermostats, radiator cooling channels, the works.... i know getting it rebuilt costs a lot more money, but it will last forever after a rebuild.
good luck, and indeed its good to see women interested in stangs as well (apart from being interested in the driver , only kidding, i think it's great)
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69 fastback 302, holley 600, typhoon intake, comp 280H cam and springs, flowtech headers,KB hypereutectic pistons and rings, pertronix ignitor, C4 transmission, ford 9" rear end, now 2.75 but 3.89:1 gears coming its way... http://www.gti-killers.be
Ok, First Glen, I said get the pertronix because it'll help alot. I was just saying that instead of getting points. Second, JB Weld is not something you put in the radaitor, it is a metal that comes in two seperate tubes. When mixed they harden to metal. YOu can apply this to where your radiator is leaking and it usually stops it right up. Believe me i know, because my radiator on my 62 chevy has JB WELD all over it.
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2000 GT Mustang Convertible
1966 Mustang coupe- all original, soon to be 4v swap.
Ok, First Glen, I said get the pertronix because it'll help alot. I was just saying that instead of getting points. Second, JB Weld is not something you put in the radaitor, it is a metal that comes in two seperate tubes. When mixed they harden to metal. YOu can apply this to where your radiator is leaking and it usually stops it right up. Believe me i know, because my radiator on my 62 chevy has JB WELD all over it.
Thanks for clearing up the JBWELD stuff, sometimes I take it for granted that everyone knows what that stuff is. We picked up the carb last night, we are going to put it on tonight and also set the timing, after checking the points and diz cap. As for the battery cables, they were one of the first things we changed, forgot to mention that in my tirade. When we first bought her she had to be boosted at the car lot, didn't take a genius to see the cables were corroded.
So, we are going to work on her tonight and tomorrow and hopefully drive her to my bro's for a party on Sunday, I will keep you posted.
I am making a list of everything that I need to replace and the radiator is at the top, can't seem to find a good price on one, however. I did find a tank and a couple of other things a lot cheaper than retail around here, (thanks)
I keep forgetting to upload a pic, I will do that ASAP so ya'll can see her. She sure is pretty to be causing me this much trouble, but then again, I am pretty high maintenance myself. lol
sounds too me like its not igniting properly. try installing a pertronix igniter and/or replacing the distributor. replace the spark plugs and probably the plug wire too. thats the first thing i would do.
Printable Version
My poor Christine, please help - 
RE: My poor Christine, please help - 
Now that you most likely have the dirty gas issue solved, you more than likely have a timing or some kind of ignition issue. Have you taken off the dizzy cap and looked at it to see if maybe there is a crack in it? Get us back up to speed as to what ignition you have....points or electronic? If it is points, at what gap do you have them set? If it were mine, I'd replace all the ignition components to include the points, condenser, rotary and cap along with the spark plug wires. Then I would put in new plugs. Ya know, it is amazing how many times even the condenser that goes bad will cause these kinds of problems. So, instead of trying to isolate the ignition problem, I would just get it all replaced with new stuff. Reset the timing by using a timing light after you replace the points. The timing should be about 8-10 degrees BTDC, or you can set it by ear. Advance it as much as you can before it pings, then back off a few degrees. 
RE: My poor Christine, please help - 