Okay, for those interested. I have talked with Jason at BMR is this is what they are willing to do. There has to be atleast 10 takers for this to take place. This offer ends September 30, 2005.
IF ten people get on board it'll cost $950.
I'll be getting mine installed tomorrow with some dyno numbers, but there may not be any significant hp gains. Honestly, I'm not sure. I'll be making some runs at the track, so that's where we'll really see the difference! I'll follow up in this thread with some new times-as long as the rain holds out. It's been raining here everyday since the hurricane.
A big part of the cost to this driveshaft is the CNC machine billet yokes.
Pm or email me if you are interested and I will post a running list by name. As of right now, they don't have one for an automatic yet. It takes a different driveshaft. Ford has 2 different part numbers for the auto and manual. BMR is working on it.
why the hell would you spend $950 on a drive shaft?!?!? Sure it's lighter but you need to be making ALOT of power before you need to worry about your driveshaft breaking and there are alot better ways to take weight out of your car.
Because he needs to replace his drive shaft anyway and one from Ford is over $500, plus you are gaining horsepower by reducing over 20lbs of rotating mass from the car. And yes, you gain horsepower.
Because he needs to replace his drive shaft anyway and one from Ford is over $500, plus you are gaining horsepower by reducing over 20lbs of rotating mass from the car. And yes, you gain horsepower.
Why on earth would you need to replace your driveshaft? What happened to it? Shouldn't it be under warranty.
Hawgman - yes, smartass, i understand the theory behind reducing rotating mass, but to state that you gain horsepower from a driveshaft is a friggin joke. You might reduce the load on the engine by the tiniest of margins, but the diameter of the driveshaft is not enough to have any real effect on the power reaching your wheels and would never be measureable on a dyno. The point behind lighter driveshafts is much more to reduce the overall weight of the vehicle more than it is to reduce rotating mass. On something like a rim and tire which has a large diameter, the rotating mass issue comes more into play due to centrifugal force, but thanks for the physics lesson
169Stang is in the low 12's I believe, if not the 11's now and running slicks, so I think thats why he needs a new driveshaft. $950 is still too much for me though and my cars not fast enough to really need it.
__________________
Sonic , Manual, redline elite struts, titanium tint.
Predator tune, C&L CAI, Motoblue TB , Motoblue UDP's Magnaflow Tru X, SLP Power Flows, Pro Kit, BMR adj. panhard, Axis GTR's
My Car: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2186043/1
ORIGINAL: MikeHawke
Why on earth would you need to replace your driveshaft? What happened to it? Shouldn't it be under warranty.
Hawgman - yes, smartass, i understand the theory behind reducing rotating mass, but to state that you gain horsepower from a driveshaft is a friggin joke. You might reduce the load on the engine by the tiniest of margins, but the diameter of the driveshaft is not enough to have any real effect on the power reaching your wheels and would never be measureable on a dyno. The point behind lighter driveshafts is much more to reduce the overall weight of the vehicle more than it is to reduce rotating mass. On something like a rim and tire which has a large diameter, the rotating mass issue comes more into play due to centrifugal force, but thanks for the physics lesson
He drag races the hell out of the car and had a driveshaft failure that was not going to be covered under warranty.
MikeHawke. If you understand the theory behind it, why call me a smartass, smartass. So you don't think that reducing 20lbs off of the motor will help out in horsepower? Then I guess you don't have any use for aluminum flywheels or believe in parasitic loss either? Did you look at the link I provided that in fact did show measurable gains to the rear wheels through out the entire power curve? And no, the link is not from the manufacturer or the seller.
<quote from article>
"The largest difference was 16 hp, measured at 5250 rpm where the stock shaft netted 312 hp and the ACPT registered 328 hp."
Would seem somewhat contradictory to your statement of "would never be measureable on a dyno".
Sure it makes about as much of an overall weight difference in the car as a carbon fiber hood. And no one does those...
I'm sorry I haven't posted the data. Yes, I had to replace my driveshaft because I tore up the original. The OEM is $500 and that's with a pretty good discount at my dealership. Check it out! I do beat the hell out of my car, 2 or 3 times a week at the track-15-20 passes a week. I've spread the stock carrier and an Auburn Pro lasted 3 passes before it ate up every single spider gear on the 4th pass. I'm leaving at 6500-7000 rpm on 28" et drags. Hard on the car. It's been raining here every day and haven't had a chance to run it since the driveshaft. I'm waiting on BMR for releasing the date, but I'll tell you this. On a dynojet, there was a gain, nothing large as you would see in stock to a performance tune. It actually gained more torque than RWHP. We also read negative hp, showing the drivetrain loss, which is some great numbers! I promise to post the numbers and charts soon. The driveshaft will really show it's purpose at the track. The car does rev up a bit quicker as an aluminum flywheel would do. It fit in perfect!
If you look at the cost of the OEM, an aluminum single piece and a carbon fiber single piece, it's worth it to me! As mentioned above for the OEM $500+, roughly $600 for an aluminum and another $200 for the yokes and $950 for a carbon fiber with yokes rated upto 1000 hp. Will anyone get near 1000 hp, no. I like the fact that it's that durable though. The stock driveshaft weighs almost 43 lbs. and the carbon fiber is 20lbs with cnc billet yokes and 1350 u-joints. For me, I'd rather spend a little more to get the most benefit. I understand that it's not for everyone. It's not something that is necessarily needed for high performance cars or fast cars. They should have put in a single piece in the first place. The ONLY reason for the 2 piece is to remove vibrations.