I'm doing a test of some supposed gas saving devices now. It's on a Jeep with the 4.7, not a Mustang. First up is the Tornado. My hopes are not very high, but someone has to go over the wire.
Acetone? I'm no mechanic, but I worked with acetone for several years. It is SO highly flammable! A guy spilled some on the desk next to me, and I had a bunsen burner on. His desk immediately caught on fire.
another thing not to use whice some people are just going to hate me for this... K&N filters, people say they add horsepower blah blah blah but you know that little oil charge they put in there? you just better hope you dont have mass air, that oil will collect and carbon up which is most likely going to tell the computer to richen the mix (lower your mileage) and make you think your getting more horsepower. when it comes to filters there nothing better then factory, if you think they just slapped on any filter on there then you're mistakin. other than that K&N is perfect for non mass air motors.
say all you want, go do your homework, as for the smart people out there, you know i'm right
Where did you get that info at? I have had a K'N filter in every car I have had since driving, always got better gas mileage and never got any damage to my motor from it letting anything by. Maybe you should think about what you are typing before you post MORON! KN filters are probably one of the best on the market everyone copies them and good value. As for your ac delco paper filters yeah they are good and keeping **** out of your engine because they are so restrictive, even air has a hard time getting through
DIPSHIT
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2001 GT Dark Green
KB 2.1L intercooled @ 9 PSI, bunch more stuff from Steeda. 12.57 @ 112.5 Street tires.
Steeda cai is good just put it on mine and there is a noticeable increase in performance as now my stock gt likes to rev to redline, use to noticeably drop off at about 5700 rpm. This is exactly what all cai are good for they will get dyno results @ the upper rpm range right where the stock intake has a little trouble. Don't listen to these wankers who say it isn't worht doing it, you may only get 7-10 hp from a steeda cai but the difference in throttle response and upper rpm is what you will want it for anyway.
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2001 GT Dark Green
KB 2.1L intercooled @ 9 PSI, bunch more stuff from Steeda. 12.57 @ 112.5 Street tires.
does anyone know anything about the cai's from ebay?do they work?
Use the "search" function and you'll find lots of info on that - but to give you a short answer, no they don't. What they're made of (aluminum) actually hinders more then helps your car because the material allows more heat from the engine bay to transfer into the air that is being taken through the intake. Warmer air = less fule economy and pooerer performance. If you're looking for a cheap way to increase performance a bit, do the home made CAI mod which can be found here http://www.****/ourpics/fcar/coldair.htm . It's inexpensive, and probably works comparibly to expensive CAI's. Oh, and the Ebay CAI's require modifications for your MAF and sensor I believe, too.
I noticed the exact same thing. Over time, with an oil based filter, my gas mileage would decrease. Cleaning the air filter didn't fix the problem at all. I finally decided to look at the sensors with the engine running to see what the computer was looking at. What do you know...I was open looped with no faults. Every reading indicated rich, as a result of the open loop. I thought it might have been an O2 sensor. Nope. Coolant/Air temp sensors. Nope. I finally cleaned the MAF. The cotton swab quickly turned black from the oil that had accumulated on the sensor. After cleaning the MAF and installing a non-oil based filter, mileage was back up and the system stopped running open loop.
If you don't believe K&N and the others aren't hurting your car, take out your MAF and clean it very carefully with isopropyl alcohol and a clean cotton swab. You'll soon see why you don't want to use oil-based filters on a computerized car.
Some say carb cleaner, but if you can find it, CRC is making a Mass Air Intake cleaner (aerosol). Grey can with black top/
Who's CRC, and would that be available in Canada? There isn't any harm in using carb cleaner, right? I know it bogs the engine a bit for a second, but there isn't any harm, right?
I take the MAF out and use isopropyl alcohol (90% or whatever you can find at your local Wal-Mart - they've invaded Canada, haven't they?). I'll also use a cotton swab if I have access to the wires.
If you remove the screen to gain access that way, be sure to mark it so it is installed correctly when things go back together.
I take the MAF out and use isopropyl alcohol (90% or whatever you can find at your local Wal-Mart - they've invaded Canada, haven't they?). I'll also use a cotton swab if I have access to the wires.
If you remove the screen to gain access that way, be sure to mark it so it is installed correctly when things go back together.
To save the taking apart stuff, I think I'll just stick to the carb cleaner for now. :) Thanks for the input though!
It is really funny to compare the instructions included with the aquatunes with the Popular Mechanics article. In the PM article they say,
"It was relatively easy to install the AquaTune, although we did need a few feet of our own vacuum line. (What do you want for $399?)"
hee hee hee
You see, the Aquatune makes orthohydrogen which is a very volatile "state" of hydrogen. If you don't read the directions that come with the kit you'll probably mount it to the firewall or some place else that looks pretty. HOWEVER, the instructions clearly say that the outlet tube on the unit feeding the intake vaccum needs to be less than 10" long and optimally about 6". Obviously not the "several feet" that the PM, I don't read directions, guys used.
The performance of these units actually goes up with engine size. I got a 61% MPG increase on my big block which is hauling around it's 32' RV chassis.
As far as the acetone and any mod like this goes, you get the best results if you think about it.
For instance, If you are running an aftermarket exhaust then your O2 sensor isn't getting as good of a reading so you might want to put an O2 manipulator in along with the aquatune to make sure you are running lean enough to take advantage of it.
If you are running acetone, same deal, gotta be lean. -- This works great in conjunction with an Aquatune.
With any mod that helps you get a better burn, you can advance the timing to make better use of it.
The water that gets injected into the manifold IS consistent across the RPM band and works well in turbo and super charged applications - IF properly installed. So you can depend on it to keep you from pinging or knocking because of the mixture or timing changes that you make. They use year/make/model specialized nozzles to accomplish this.
Here's a link to an advertisement for an industrial product that helps convert orthohydrogen to parahydrogen - just so you don't think I'm pulling vocabulary out of thin air.
but being a newbie ...Is there a good book or shop manual that will help me keep up with all of this new tech talk? I would love to remove the k&n the car came with and clean my MAF and maybe get a CAI. but now I need an asprin as my head hurts.
interesting facts...i hope! well, i just ordered an ASPEC CAI on ebay for $45. haven't put it on, so i was wondering if anyone had any inputs as to whether i should install it or not. thank you!
If you are going to clean your maf, chop out the screen. Allows more airflow. I did it just because its free. No big improvment but every little bit helps...
Do this and you will lose mileage and performance. The MAF is programmed to have the screen installed. Even turning it 90* is enough to have a negative effect.
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ORIGINAL: Vette_driver
If you are going to clean your maf, chop out the screen. Allows more airflow. I did it just because its free. No big improvment but every little bit helps...
I used to own a carburetor and tune up shop. During the "gas crisis" in the 70s alot of these "snake oil salesmen" surfaced. I told one of them who was selling an "ionizer" that had clips for your plug wires that I would be quite willing to take one for test purposes. He declined, and I found out later completely changed his claims while I was watching. There was the "hydrocatalyst" that sandwiched between the carburetor and intake manifold. It had two screens in series, was installed under either a 2 or 4 barrel carb. The upper screen had a tab that conneted it to the carb base, the lower had one to the intake manifold. The fallacy was that the carb and intake were connected together by the bolts or studs. They did actually help engines tha suffered from poor atomization or distribution of fuel. Basicly, a good tune up, oil changes and clean air filter helps most. A lower restriction exhaust can help along with a good cold air intake, not just one that sits under the hood.
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RE: What MPG and HP increasing devices NOT to buy! - 
RE: What MPG and HP increasing devices NOT to buy! - 
