I admit, it's kind of a weird question, but I've been dumping out quite a bit of extra income lately and it might be a little while before I can afford an X cal. I'm sure that most guys, these days, probably go for retunes first. When I started, headers were a basic staple. Always one of the very first things that you did.
I am pretty sure that a tune is not required for jba shorty headers, but I am not sure. I do know that a tuner is the best way to maximize the hp gains from the shorty headers.
You do not have to retune for headers.
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Best 1/4: 10.97@122.09, 1.56 60ft w/4.0 V6 Best 1/4: 11.67@115.45, 1.64 60ft w/5.4 3V Best 1/8: 7.401@92.77, 1.65 60ft w/5.4 3V www.rygen.net/stang
I am pretty sure that a tune is not required for jba shorty headers, but I am not sure. I do know that a tuner is the best way to maximize the hp gains from the shorty headers.
You do not have to retune for headers.
i thought you didn't have to retune for shortys but had to for long tube?
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XCAL2 By Bamachips 87 Perf Tune, JBA Dual Exhaust w/ H-Pipe, MMR High Flow Intake Kit, Legend Spoiler, Roush Hood Scoop, 17"GT take off rims, 8" Shorty Antenna
I am pretty sure that a tune is not required for jba shorty headers, but I am not sure. I do know that a tuner is the best way to maximize the hp gains from the shorty headers.
You do not have to retune for headers.
i thought you didn't have to retune for shortys but had to for long tube?
You need to relocate the 02 sensors, as close to the collector as possible and disable the 2nd bank of 02 sensors. Not exactly a retune, but its not a simple bolt on.
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Best 1/4: 10.97@122.09, 1.56 60ft w/4.0 V6 Best 1/4: 11.67@115.45, 1.64 60ft w/5.4 3V Best 1/8: 7.401@92.77, 1.65 60ft w/5.4 3V www.rygen.net/stang
Tres, I loved the thread. I contacted Kevin. The new price is $39.22 for the hangers. If anyone is interested. You can get them for $35. plus shipping. email Dave Redman at; lpc@withamauto.com
< Message edited by 68XR7 -- 11/14/2006 12:57:27 PM >
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'05 Sonic Blue- Work in progress
quote:
(at 45) "I didn't always have a happy childhood, but I did have a long one"
I noticed that the bolts that hold the vibration damper on the old V6 muffler are the same as the ones that hold the muffler hangers to the frame. I figured that I might as well use them, I'll probably throw the old muffler out anyway. If you save the 2 extra bolts from the extra hanger (as mentioned before) and save the 2 bolts that are attached to the original muffler damper assembly, you will have enough bolts to install both hangers on the left side. Also, prior to cuttin' my bumper (I used a Dremel, too) I put masking tape over the area to be removed. This did two things. First it protected the area from unintentional nicks and scratches while doing the work. Second, it made a great marking surface to draw the marks for the hole. I made the initial cut, staying about 1/4" inside of the line. Then, using an electric drill with a drum sander attachment, I expanded the hole to it's finished dimensions. Then I removed the leftover tape. This gave me a perfectly shaped hole with no paint chips or imperfections of any kind. Dave
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'05 Sonic Blue- Work in progress
quote:
(at 45) "I didn't always have a happy childhood, but I did have a long one"
Hi All, I have a 06 Pony and I'm going to change to dual exhaust - need some muscle sound! I read all your posts - very helpful. I don't know crap about which is the best muffler although I have heard good things about the Magna Flow. What would be the best duals to buy to convert the Pony to a dual? I am going to have the shop put it in so any info on what the cost might be on that would be helpful too.
Hi All, I have a 06 Pony and I'm going to change to dual exhaust - need some muscle sound! I read all your posts - very helpful. I don't know crap about which is the best muffler although I have heard good things about the Magna Flow. What would be the best duals to buy to convert the Pony to a dual? I am going to have the shop put it in so any info on what the cost might be on that would be helpful too.
Thanks,
It rises AGAIN!!!!!!! you can get a jba H-pipe system which includes everything, but the cheapest way is w/ GT-Takeoffs. Use the search button, its your friend!!!
This is a very interesting thread with great info. I can get something here to deal with jeep exhausts. It must be basically the same. Thanks for the posts...
Posts: 2845
Joined: 1/3/2007 From: Southeast Virginia Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Tres Wright
Next I slipped the muffler into the brackets to make sure it fit OK. Everything looked great! So I removed the muffler and stuck it into the trunk. I don't think it would be a good idea to drive the car with the muffler just hung from the brackets as it'll bounce around and could even fall off. The muffler can be removed without removing the brackets at this point, it just slips forward and out of the brackets.
I took the car to Midas and they did the rest. They ran a 2-1/2" pipe from the front of the muffler over the axle and up to the left headpipe. They cut into the headpipe and welded the new pipe to the opening. They had to remove the existing harmonic balancer off of the right pipe. I've driven it about 50 miles and have not noticed any new vibration (it has always had a little vibration right at 2100 RPM, it's still there but not worse).
That's it! Mainly I did this for looks, I really didn't like the single exhaust. This is a Mustang after all! It NEEDS duals, even if it is "just" a 6 It sounds much better than stock, it has a nice, deep V8 sound to it. It's definitely not as loud and throaty as a GT with an aftermarket exhaust, but it sounds very good
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Have you noticed any vibration since your harmonic balancer was removed? Also does Ford give you a hard time when doing work with the mods? I purchased some GT takeoff mufflers and I am about to jump into the dual pit with you guys, but I want to be sure.
Posts: 2845
Joined: 1/3/2007 From: Southeast Virginia Status: offline
It amazes me how many muffler shops will tell you, "it can't be done!" I inform them all the time about this forum with proof that it can and HAS been done many, many times!
Thanks for all your brilliant pictures with step by step instructions.
Anyway, got my GT mufflers in, next stop is to the local shop.
Posts: 2845
Joined: 1/3/2007 From: Southeast Virginia Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Tres Wright
Next I slipped the muffler into the brackets to make sure it fit OK. Everything looked great! So I removed the muffler and stuck it into the trunk. I don't think it would be a good idea to drive the car with the muffler just hung from the brackets as it'll bounce around and could even fall off. The muffler can be removed without removing the brackets at this point, it just slips forward and out of the brackets.
I took the car to Midas and they did the rest. They ran a 2-1/2" pipe from the front of the muffler over the axle and up to the left headpipe. They cut into the headpipe and welded the new pipe to the opening. They had to remove the existing harmonic balancer off of the right pipe. I've driven it about 50 miles and have not noticed any new vibration (it has always had a little vibration right at 2100 RPM, it's still there but not worse).
That's it! Mainly I did this for looks, I really didn't like the single exhaust. This is a Mustang after all! It NEEDS duals, even if it is "just" a 6 It sounds much better than stock, it has a nice, deep V8 sound to it. It's definitely not as loud and throaty as a GT with an aftermarket exhaust, but it sounds very good
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Don't know if it is true, but the people at a local muffler shop that deals with Ford said cutting that would void my warranty.
Ok you guys am a new guy with the whole Mod business
I am about to buy Dual GT Take Off's, what else do i need to buy to have them both work properly? and how much is it all going to cost (not including the GT Take Off's i already know how much to pay)
*GT Take Offs includes the pipes it says
< Message edited by Stangman106 -- 11/15/2007 8:08:41 PM >