RE: ROTORS & pads install
What's your experience? It's a really straightforward job if you've got the right tools. I'll break it down step by step for you, incase you need it:
1. Loosen lug nuts on front wheels, do not remove completely
2. Jack up front end so both front wheels are off the ground. Jack it up from the cross member in the center of the vehicle.
3. Remove the lug nuts and wheels.
4. Remove the bolts holding the caliper in place, I can't remember the size of the bolt...but it's metric for sure, I THINK 10 mm...really can't remember though.
5. Slide the caliper up to remove the pads, pads should just fall out. Keep the clips for the pads, you'll need to reuse them.
6. Remove the caliper, but don't disconnect it from the hose. Don't let the caliperhang, freely from the brake hose.
7. Remove the rotor. If it's siezed in there, spray it down with some liquid wrench and wait a few minutes. If it still doens't budge, use a pry bar to get it out.
8. Clean off the new rotor
9. Place the new rotor on the hub
10. Spread anti-squeel compound on the back of the new pads. Available at all autoparts stores near the register, about $1 per packet which coveres 1 axel of pads. This compound will prevent vibrations between the caliper and the pad and prevent squeeling.
11. Open the bleed valves in the caliper. Compress the piston using c-clamp. For the back rotor, you will have to turn it using the cube tool earlier mentioned in another post, or you can go at with vise grip pliers to rotate.
12. Install the new pads the same way the old ones were, in the correct orientation with the clips in place.
13. Slide the caliper with the new pads back on over the rotor and bolt the caliper back on.
14. Repeat all 4 sides.
15. Get in the car and before starting it, press the brake peddle several times to compress the pistons back on the pads.
16. Bed in the new pads on an empty safe road with no traffic. Need to get the vehicle up to 60 and then brake hard down to 10 mph. Repeat 3 times to fully bed in the pads.
To come to think of it, while you're doing your brakes, you might as well bleed the system. You will need DOT 3 brake fluid, a 1/8" clear plastic tube, and a 711 big gulp cup. It's very easy to do with 2 people, start at the rear passenger side, then rear driver side, front passenger, then front driver side. I can't remmeber exactly how to do it, but basically ou just hook up the plastic tube to the bleeder valve on the caliper, and have someone pump the brake peddle until the bubbles stop. Need to keep the master brake resoivour under the hood full while doing this. Check the forums for more detailed instructions on how to bleed the brake system. Its easy to do while changing pads and rotors and doesn't take much time.
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2000 V6 Mustang
245/40/18 Bridgestone Potenza RE960 AS
2.5" Lowering Sport Springs
Steeda Cast/Camber Plates
X2 Ball Joints
Bumpsteer Kit
MMST-7 Steering Shaft
Razzi Body Kit
MAC Cold Air Induction
Borla Dual Exhaust
SCT XCal 3
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