It looks alright from here, but that doesnt mean ****.
take the rocker off, color the top of the valve with a marker, and put the rocker back on. crank it over a few times, remove the rocker, and inspect the wear pattern
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Joined: 11/27/2005 From: Chicago - in Rochester, NY Status: offline
Yeah do what Adder said, that's how I did mine and it worked great. Also make sure you're using a solid lifter, if you're using one of the stock ones then it'll be inaccurate.
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Joined: 11/27/2005 From: Chicago - in Rochester, NY Status: offline
You can't use a collapsed hydraulic lifter because when your engine is actually running the pushrod will be too long. You need to use a solid lifter so it acts like a hydraulic lifter pumped with oil when your engine is running. The solid lifter doesn't compress when checking the geometry thus giving you an accurate reading.
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Joined: 11/27/2005 From: Chicago - in Rochester, NY Status: offline
if you want it to be right that's what you have to do. Or you can make a solid lifter out of one of your hydraulic ones: http://www.trickflow.com/articles/stroker_1/# Scroll down to where it says "Do It Yourself Checking Lifter"
+1 to what everyone is saying, but i'm thinking that once your lifter isnt collapsing and your pushrod seems longer you'll be right where you wanna be with your current length.
well, in the vid its at stock (6.250") length. the pattern is alil inside the center line of the valve. i'm thinkin with a solid lifter it will move it right in the center of the valve. gotta get me a junk lifter and find out.
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Joined: 11/27/2005 From: Chicago - in Rochester, NY Status: offline
sounds about right. When I made a solid lifter i didn't have to grind the thing down, just turned the plunger thing over and removed the spring, then i put it back how it was. Not 100% sure if it was right after that or not though but it should have been.
when i revamp my VT im going to use a "solid" hyd roller, but the last time i checked pushrod length i didnt do that, but luckly i still got a good wear pattern, from the engine running that is. but it kinda makes me wonder if it is 100% right.
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You do not have to use a solid roller lifter to check valvetrain geometry. As long as the valve and the stud are parallel (most heads are) then you can use a regular old hydraulic lifter to check it. All you do is leave the lock nut off. Instead of the valve moving down when the cam rotates, the rocker arm just moves up the stud. This works because the valve and the stud are at the same angle, so rocker arm movement is exactly the same as if the rocker was tightened with the lock nut and the valve was moving down. I just put a thin coat of grease on the valve stem tip, and rotate the engine over to see where the wear pattern is going to be. Once you rotate it, just slide the rocker back off, and there you go, you can see exactly where the tip of the rocker is going to be on the valve stem tip.
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For Sale: Edelbrock RPM 2 intake Edelbrock RPM heads comp XE270HR-14 comp magnum double roller comp cams magnum 1.6 rockers ford racing lifters hardened Pushrods aode,modified valvebody, 2500-2800 stall, and 28oz flexplate -pm for more info
sorry tyler, but thats about as inaccurate as setting your timing by ear. Or just slapping gears into a rear end.
If you aren't going to do the job right, keep it to yourself. Don't teach people the wrong methods when it comes down to something as important as valvetrain geometry!
You do not have to use a solid roller lifter to check valvetrain geometry. As long as the valve and the stud are parallel (most heads are) then you can use a regular old hydraulic lifter to check it. All you do is leave the lock nut off. Instead of the valve moving down when the cam rotates, the rocker arm just moves up the stud. This works because the valve and the stud are at the same angle, so rocker arm movement is exactly the same as if the rocker was tightened with the lock nut and the valve was moving down. I just put a thin coat of grease on the valve stem tip, and rotate the engine over to see where the wear pattern is going to be. Once you rotate it, just slide the rocker back off, and there you go, you can see exactly where the tip of the rocker is going to be on the valve stem tip.
This and eyeballing your pushrod length is why YOU have valve train noise, this is not good information to give others. Here's a link for checking pushrod legnth and rocker geometry: http://www.compcams.com/Technical/FAQ/ValvetrainGeometry.asp
< Message edited by PJC Racing -- 5/18/2008 6:43:03 PM >
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