Which Cable Clutch to Buy
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RE: Which Cable Clutch to Buy - 5/14/2008 10:16:39 AM
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Gun Jam
Posts: 1364
Joined: 12/23/2005
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I also got the mustangsteve cable It looks like a daisy ill see in about a week or 3.
-Gun
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RE: Which Cable Clutch to Buy - 5/14/2008 10:37:10 AM
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PReal
Posts: 2268
Joined: 8/28/2006
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Daze
As far as the cable, go to www.MustangSteve.com he has the best one on the market. If you want to go with the hydraulic than I sell the slave cyl bracket and with my bracket the whole thing cost around $200.00 to install. The MC and slave can be gotten from speedway motors and then all you need is some brake line and a little connecting hardware.
Daze,
Would the total cost of the hydraulic setup cost $200, or just the brackets?
It sounds to me like hydraulic is the way to go, but I thought it was cost prohibative.
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It needs a little work...
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RE: Which Cable Clutch to Buy - 5/14/2008 12:05:16 PM
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PReal
Posts: 2268
Joined: 8/28/2006
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Daze
There is a company out there that sells a kit for almost $500.00 to upgrade to hydraulic. And it made me mad because the MC is only $66.69 and the Slave cyl is only $49.99 from Speedway motors. The only thing a person needs to make these work in there car is the bracket to mount the slave to the T5, the MC and SC some connecting hardware to connect the pedal to the MC pushrod and some brake fittings. For those that don't have the tools to cut and weld steel the bracket is the issue, and why the other company charges so much, (nothing like a $400.00 bracket) so I make and sell the bracket for $70.00 shipped. I am tired of companies who want to bend over their customers. This hobby is expensive enough. The Kit sold in the aftermarket is straite forward install, with directions. My bracket allows easy bolt up of the slave cyl to the T5 and then requires a little enginnering on the part of the installer to correctly hook up the MC to the pedal, but it is not that hard. here is a web page by James W from this forum showing how to do it.
http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD%20Clutch.htm
Let me know if you have any questions. I just upgraded my 62 Galaxie to hydraulic and if it can be converted than just about any thing can be converted it was a major challange.
Daze,
I have looked at your website and the other that James mentions and I'm thinking I want to go hydraulic. (It will more then likely be cheaper the the cable kit I was going to pick up locally as well)
It looks like everything I need is detailed on James W's site. Drilling a hole about an inch lower then the stocker on my clutch pedal should be rather simple.
I think the only tools I am missing are the drill bit and taps needed to drill out that bolt, but I've been needing to get those for a while and I highly doubt it will cost $50 for that equipment.
The way I see it, I get a better engineered solution, more reliability, and can keep my long tube headers. The savings from the headers alone would be great, but the kit will cost me $50 less as well.
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It needs a little work...
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RE: Which Cable Clutch to Buy - 5/14/2008 3:26:00 PM
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Daze
Posts: 833
Joined: 7/16/2007
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there is another option to drilling out the clutch pedal, you can buy some 5/8" key stock and use about 1" of it as a connector to connect the original pivot hole to the MC push rod, somthing like this:
As long as the area where the block meats the pedal is free to pivot, and where the block connects to the pushrod is solid, it will work well. by using the original mount you will have less pedal effort and more pedal travel. I had to to the same thing on my Galaxie, but therw was much more involved with that because the drop was further. To make the block mount firmly to the pushrod I threaded it and then used a jam nut on one side. to make the upper mount pivot freely, I installed a bushing just thicker than the clutch pedal in the clutch pedal hole and then tightened the bolt down.
The following is info on the Galaxie install that I posted on another forum.
So here is the set up. In 61 and 62 A ford Galaxie could be gotten with a clutch or power steering but not both because the Z-bar interferes with the power steering ram. My 62 came with power steering and to make maters worse I installed an 84 motor and an AOD so trying to fit a Z-bar of some kind would have been an even bigger pain because of mounting of the Z-bar on the block side would have required fabing a bracket. The 61 I parted out came with a clutch so I kept the pedals but sold the Z-bar and pivot points. My plan was to use hydraulics when I swapped out the AOD for the T5 I rebuilt. Problem is the hole for the clutch linkage is about 1.5" lower than the brake linkage hole. as pictured below an arm extends from the pedal and the original linkage went down to the Z-bar at an angle.
I couldn't easily relocate the clutch linkage hole and if I tilted the clutch MC down to match the original linkage angle the MC had clearance issues under the hood. My first attempt to make it work was to drill a new hole in the clutch pedal and move the linkage mounting point paralleled with the hole.
I new that the 1.5" drop from the factory location would increase pedal effort and shorten pedal travel but I figured sense most say their hydraulic clutch requires less pedal effort than stock so I figured I would be fine. WRONG!!!! took a lot of pedal effort and the master cyl bottomed out 2" before the pedal reached the floor. I thought OK I will use the higher mount as a pivot and run a 5/8" block down to connect with the push rod to the pedal
This set up immediately bent the 5/16" pushrod that came with the MC so I machined one out of a 3/8" grade 8 bolt (Man I love have a metal lathe!!!!!!!!!). Bent that one two but not as bad, and I was able to at least actuate the clutch and make sure it worked and that pedal effort was reasonable. The final solution was to triangulate the push rod by threading most of its full length and making an adjustable connection to stabilize the rod.
I am very pleased with the result, the clutch is easy to actuate and very smooth. If I were to do it again, the only thing I would have done differently is use a MC with a bore that is smaller rather than equal to the slave cyl. that way I would have had even less pedal effort and less stress on the parts. I was going to use a 3/4 MC and a 7/8 slave, but sense I had a 3/4" slave that I had gotten from JamesW I figured I would try it.
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If it aint broke..... modify it anyway!!!!
Mustang tech www.DazeCars.com
Galaxie & F S Ford forum www.galaxieforum.com
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Printable Version
and I understand they have R&D costs, insurense costs, and overhead but you can't tell me it cost an aditional 200 to make that MC $20 at the most. the $200 we are comparing the $440 to is retail I bet JMC pays less than $200.00 for everything in the kit and it is the fact that they want to stick it to the consumer that makes me mad. I sell things as inexpensively as I can (to still make a REASONABLE profet) because I have ben there and know what it is like to build a Mustang on a budget. As far as being a bolt on that block I suggested (1 cut two holes 20 minutes top) makes it a bolt in 