Ok guys, when changing out my intake manifold I must of gotten some radiator fluid down in the #2 cyclinder, and it caused it to bend my connecting rod. I know this b/c I had a compression check done on it.
When ordering new connecting rods online, which kind does everyone prefer? Best Performance...etc.. Where should I order them from?....etc.... The engine is basically stock other than CAI, steeda pullies, and intake manifold. 4.6L, 2V engine.
Ok guys, when changing out my intake manifold I must of gotten some radiator fluid down in the #2 cyclinder, and it caused it to bend my connecting rod. I know this b/c I had a compression check done on it.
When ordering new connecting rods online, which kind does everyone prefer? Best Performance...etc.. Where should I order them from?....etc.... The engine is basically stock other than CAI, steeda pullies, and intake manifold. 4.6L, 2V engine.
Thanks for your help guys.
I'd say the Manley H-beam are by far the most popular forged rod. I also have some cheaper forged rods (Modmax) for basic econo rebuilds.
My advice is that if you're going that deep into the engine, you should forge the entire thing. The biggest cost is the labor, so go ahead and sink a little more in it and get a forged crank and pistons. Any forged rod is better than stock. The Manleys are great, Probe and Eagle are both good too. It's a preference choice. The HP rating is what is most important if you're going for big power.
_____________________________
98 Cobra Coupe w/ shifter and Flowmaster, FRPP B springs, Tokico blues
Water does not compress. So when the piston comes up on the compression stroke it will not beable to come up as far as normal and cause the rod to bend.
You must have gotten alot of coolant in that cylinder for it to bend the rod. You might want to tear down before you order anything. what was the compression in that cylinder compared to all the others? What steps did you take after you saw lower then normal compression in that cylinder?
I am running Modmax 4340 H beam rods. Rated at 1000hp, we'll see.
I just dont see getting that much water down there changing a intake
I really don't see it either. If he said cyl 1,4 or 5 maybe I could see it but how did that much coolant get back to #2? Thats why I said he need to tear down first before he orders cause I don't think he has a bent rod.
Posts: 569
Joined: 3/1/2007 From: Napa CA Status: offline
How would they do a compression check without it turning over? IDK ive had that much carb cleaner in my engine and tried to start it and hydrolocked it all you have to do is pull the plugs and turn it over with the starter we have been doing that at my work on jetskis that hydrolock for the last 15 years no bent rods but then again ford rods do suck...
_____________________________
1996 gt with 4v swap , Visteon racing radiator, BBK coldair, Flowtech x pipe ,Steeda side exhaust, spec stage II , Nitto NT-01''s and motive 4.30''s 282 Rwhp 274Rwtq
There is a loud knock, which speeds up as you press the accelerator. I had the compression test done at a ford dealership. I'm not sure what the compression numbers were for the cylinders. The tech. said that he thought that it could be a bent rod, but wasn't for sure until they tore into it.
I don't know what to do with it!! Any idea's fella's????
Wait a minute.....what if I take the oil pan off and put a socket on the H. Balancer and turn the crank by hand. Shouldn't there be enough room for me to be able to see the connecting rod on the #2 cylinder? Then I'd be able to tell if it is actually hitting, plus wouldn't there be some metal shavings in the oil pan if it is hitting???
< Message edited by jagbag -- 5/18/2008 5:04:26 PM >
Printable Version
Connecting Rods Question - 
