I'm on the edge of ordering them now... Just not sure If I should or not. I have the money for them but it's hard for me to let that much money go at one time.
What else will I need if I get the heads and cams? Will I need to get new head gaskets, studs, etc..? I was going to do the PI swap, but If I'm going to spend close to 1k for used heads and stock cams why not upgrade? Would you guys go with an aftermarket intake as well if I do this? I was thinking about the Edelbrock Victor Jr. Manifold. I would have to buy the PI intake manifold anyway. With these heads, will I still have to do the complete PI conversion... the alt. bracket, coolant tube, coolant nipple, etc?

The car has about 130k miles on it... So I'm wondering If I should just wait and get a longblock?

I would love to have these heads and cams though. It's always been a dream for me when I was a kid to have a car with a decent lick while at idle. Especially with my LT's and Electric cutouts that will be here shortly.

Somebody talk some sense into me.

u will need new head bolts i believe, and you should get new gaskets. u might as well get an intake.. THR hardballa son lol.

Definatly need some new head gaskets but i dont know about new head bolts. but with 130K miles on the clock, i would just save up and just buy the longblock. that is more practical in my mind. because then you arent paying for the labor to do the head swap and you just add your accessories and go. and if you ever want to do power adder, you can just buy the power adder and go and not have to worry about the bottom end going out. and regarding the intake manifold part, get a trick flow track heat intake manifold with the dual 57 mm throttle body inlet so you can run a dual blade or hollow out that elbow and run a monoblade throttle body. just my opinion.

ORIGINAL: teej281

Definatly need some new head gaskets but i dont know about new head bolts. but with 130K miles on the clock, i would just save up and just buy the longblock. that is more practical in my mind. because then you arent paying for the labor to do the head swap and you just add your accessories and go. and if you ever want to do power adder, you can just buy the power adder and go and not have to worry about the bottom end going out. and regarding the intake manifold part, get a trick flow track heat intake manifold with the dual 57 mm throttle body inlet so you can run a dual blade or hollow out that elbow and run a monoblade throttle body. just my opinion.


I would be doing the labor myself...
A blower would be nice, but I'm stuck with my spray for now..

Yes you need new head bolts. Just get stock TTY bolts until you get a built bottom end. You will need a new set of head gaskets get tri metal felpro. The hardballr and edelbrock are the 2 budget intakes I would suggest and trickflow for a mid budget intake. Logans and P-51 are great but more then you need. I have Trickflow and love it.

I am buying my stage 3 heads and stage 3 blower cams from cushmans at the end of the month. Jim is a great guy and is on this forum if you need advice. Register on the cushmans site!

I'm not exactly sure what all you have done oxford, but isn't stage 3 overkill??
I would like to have a more aggressive cam than the stage 2, but I'm not sure If It would hurt me or help me.

What kind of HP gains am I looking at here with LT's, heads, and cams?? 60-70rwhp?
Is it still going to bump my compression up to 10:1 ?
I'm pretty sure I will need a tune correct?

I have a forged block bored .020 over, full exhaust with longtubes, trickflow intake, procharger F1a with 18lbs pulleys (sitting on the floor in the garage). Nope not an overkill its actually not enough but I am doing this on a budget.

Got ya...

ORIGINAL: 1sloblckgt



What kind of HP gains am I looking at here with LT's, heads, and cams?? 60-70rwhp?
Is it still going to bump my compression up to 10:1 ?
I'm pretty sure I will need a tune correct?

since its a full swap you are going to need a tune, and not a canned one unless you are using that to get to a dyno... some people on here have said that there compression went up to 10.5:1 but i don't know much of a difference that .5 is. also, the problem that i facing at this point, is that it does bump the compression up so high and people say that isn't good for forced injection like turbos and superchargers so i don't know if i actually want to go PI or not

ORIGINAL: oxfordgt

I have a forged block bored .020 over, full exhaust with longtubes, trickflow intake, procharger F1a with 18lbs pulleys (sitting on the floor in the garage). Nope not an overkill its actually not enough but I am doing this on a budget.



I thought you had to be .030 over to go with the stage 3 heads? Or is that just Patriot?

I guess it depends on what size valves they use in their stage 3s.

ORIGINAL: ZW99GT

ORIGINAL: oxfordgt

I have a forged block bored .020 over, full exhaust with longtubes, trickflow intake, procharger F1a with 18lbs pulleys (sitting on the floor in the garage). Nope not an overkill its actually not enough but I am doing this on a budget.



I thought you had to be .030 over to go with the stage 3 heads? Or is that just Patriot?

I', only .020" over

No way .030 over on a 4.6 block pushing 18lbs of boost will be a disaster and aot of money down the drain. You only need to be .020 over to run the heads.

The hardballr and edelbrock are the 2 budget intakes I would suggest and trickflow for a mid budget intake.

I thought the hardballr was as much, if not more than the trickflow?

ORIGINAL: oxfordgt

No way .030 over on a 4.6 block pushing 18lbs of boost will be a disaster and aot of money down the drain. You only need to be .020 over to run the heads.


Why do you say that?

ORIGINAL: tbirdscwd

ORIGINAL: oxfordgt

No way .030 over on a 4.6 block pushing 18lbs of boost will be a disaster and aot of money down the drain. You only need to be .020 over to run the heads.


Why do you say that?



The bigger the bore, the less material that's left on the cylinder walls. But theory states that when you bore out a block, the remaining material is actually compacted and stronger. But obviously there is a point of no return when it just too thin. IMO, .030 over is fine. I've been feeding my .030 over stroker a 200 shot and spinning it to 7000RPM.

20 over is the norm with 30 over being used on blocks that have to be taken down that far to still use... i have never heard anyone being stronger than the other, or either being any more strong or weak than stock bore... But yes anytime you use oversized valves you should be at least 20 over... but also larger valves give up a ton of low end and really pickup the higher you rev being worth 20 to 30rwhp at 7K..... if your not spinning that high i wouldnt worry about it.

ORIGINAL: ZW99GT

ORIGINAL: tbirdscwd

ORIGINAL: oxfordgt

No way .030 over on a 4.6 block pushing 18lbs of boost will be a disaster and aot of money down the drain. You only need to be .020 over to run the heads.


Why do you say that?



The bigger the bore, the less material that's left on the cylinder walls. But theory states that when you bore out a block, the remaining material is actually compacted and stronger. But obviously there is a point of no return when it just too thin. IMO, .030 over is fine. I've been feeding my .030 over stroker a 200 shot and spinning it to 7000RPM.



I realize that there is less material left from the original sleeve when the cyl is bored out, but I have ever heard of someone calling a .030 over block a disaster or money down the drain. People run .030 over blocks all the time with no issues.

I ment it in my application. I will be making over 800rwhp with extreme cylinder pressures a .030 over block will blow. It won't be able to handle the pressure. A small boost application like 8-12 lbs will be fine. If you want a bigger bore buy the boss block.

I guess that makes sense. People shouldn't be boring an engine over to gain cubes anyways. You should bore an engine as little as possible and only when necessary to resurface the cylinder walls not to gain displacement or hp. Or in your case with oversized valves.

I haven't done any research as to what the sleeves can hadle pressure-wise and at what overbore size. Either way if you can get away with .020 over than there is no point to take it farther.

Well the Iron blocks are not sleeved. If they were then bore away. I only bored mine .020 over because I had to fix the wall of number 3 from when I blew the motor.

I'm glad all my questions got answered. :eek:

ORIGINAL: 1sloblckgt

I'm glad all my questions got answered. :eek:


Alot is gunna depend on the tuner and his touch, but i'd say with my stg 2 heads and cams you are looking at 320+ rwhp. Likely more with a good intake and a good tune. Those cams LOVE the added compression on a PI swap. You will need head gaskets and new headstuds, as the stock headbolts are TTY (Torque To Yield) and not reusable.

ORIGINAL: oxfordgt

Well the Iron blocks are not sleeved. If they were then bore away. I only bored mine .020 over because I had to fix the wall of number 3 from when I blew the motor.


I guess I should have just called them cylinder walls.

check out my post in this link. i put two links that i found on the forum so hopefully they help you.

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_5060850/tm.htm

Will it still be safe to spray with the boost in compression ?

i don't cuz i have seen people running with stage heads and cams and other stuff but when i said i was planning on a pi swap they said a s/c or turbo or nitrous wouldn't be good with the compression... basically i look forward to that answer too

ORIGINAL: bjh061487

i don't cuz i have seen people running with stage heads and cams and other stuff but when i said i was planning on a pi swap they said a s/c or turbo or nitrous wouldn't be good with the compression... basically i look forward to that answer too


N20 loves compression. Boost does too, but with it creating so much extra heat, compression needs to be lower. Unless you want to run race gas 24/7.

Higher compression is great for spray....thats why race built nitrous motor are 15:1+ compression. Blower/turbo you tend to lower the static ratio.

Even with a stock bottom end?

Jim, just trade cars with me and we'll call it even. :D

Nitrous and compression are best friends. Forced induction and compression are good friends. If you can build it strong enough and run race fuel you can run 11:1 compression with 8psi of boost and make alot more hp then 8.8:1 with 8lbs of boost.

ORIGINAL: 10inch Terror

Higher compression is great for spray....thats why race built nitrous motor are 15:1+ compression. Blower/turbo you tend to lower the static ratio.


I doubt you remember but when Doughboy and myself got our mustangs dyno tuned at your shop a few summers ago I asked you about that car and I asked you if it was 15.5:1 and you said "I wish, it's only 15:1." I think it was partially dismantled then...

Off topic but Do you know my tuner, Pete Campbell, he runs a black vortech 11sec 6'er.

I need a good tuner around here... Birmingham area.

Mike I need your vote.

ORIGINAL: 1sloblckgt

I need a good tuner around here... Birmingham area.

Mike I need your vote.


OK, Vote for what?

so for the extra heat you just need to get an intercooled supercharger and you would good right if you are running a higher compression?

ORIGINAL: bjh061487

so for the extra heat you just need to get an intercooled supercharger and you would good right if you are running a higher compression?


No. You'd need it to run on high octane, like 110 or 118, and probably meth. An intercooled BOOST motor is gonna have WAY higher IAT's than a N20 motor, and maybe even a N/A engine.