Its definitely a good entry level blower. If you are planning on a built bottom end and big power down the road, then get something bigger. The p-1sc will take you to about 500rwhp give or take depending on mods of course. But the "safe" limit on the stock bottom end is around 400rwhp, so it you never plan on doing the bottom end its the perfect choice. All their kits come intercooled for a few hundred more than other entry level blowers that come non-intercooled.
The Procharger P1SC Stage II package is a very well balenced package. Its more then capable of taking you from 380rwhp to a little over 500rwhp. Very street friendly, very efficent at low psi. 50 state legal. All around good system. And 500rwhp is more then enough with the right supporting mods to bring you into the 11s.
Depending on your setup, max boost with an 8rib pulley is around 12psi to 14psi(maybe). The most power output I've seen from a P1 was 540rwhp @ 13psi. The thing was just sick.
If you feel the need to exceed 600rwhp, then the D1 will be your choice. I think they go up to 20psi. They are the same size as a P1, just with different impellars. You don't need an 8-rib setup if you wanna run max boost with them.
Then if you have deep pockets with just the insane need for power..... The F-1A will be your way to go. They max out at some ridculous amount of boost and run on a COG belt. They will also make your ear drums bleed at an idle from the jet powered whistle they have.
The Procharger P1SC Stage II package is a very well balenced package. Its more then capable of taking you from 380rwhp to a little over 500rwhp. Very street friendly, very efficent at low psi. 50 state legal. All around good system. And 500rwhp is more then enough with the right supporting mods to bring you into the 11s.
Depending on your setup, max boost with an 8rib pulley is around 12psi to 14psi(maybe). The most power output I've seen from a P1 was 540rwhp @ 13psi. The thing was just sick.
If you feel the need to exceed 600rwhp, then the D1 will be your choice. I think they go up to 20psi. They are the same size as a P1, just with different impellars. You don't need an 8-rib setup if you wanna run max boost with them.
Then if you have deep pockets with just the insane need for power..... The F-1A will be your way to go. They max out at some ridculous amount of boost and run on a COG belt. They will also make your ear drums bleed at an idle from the jet powered whistle they have.
are u sure about that Victor? I was talking to Procharger the other day and he told me that my D1 WOULD SLIP Excessivly with the 3.2 pulley i have for it. He said i NEED the 8rib Pulley Setup.(which is like $675 shipped with the procharger pulley of your choic at THR ) If not it would Definately save me MUCHO Money lol.. I might just put a 3.8 pulley on and SPRAY to make up some HP lol...
I mean for almost 700 I can find a COMPLETE NITROUS kit
(SRY FOR HIJACKING THREAD OP)
Good luck with ur BLOWER!!!
< Message edited by Ryan86272 -- 5/13/2008 12:08:43 PM >
_____________________________
I WANT TO BUY: \/ 03 Cobra Fuel system(Tank/pumps) Rear end parts-Axels,Gears, Diff Cover 8.8(American Mus.) HPX blow through MAss air and housing.(VMP Tuning) P51 Intake (black powdercoat) (Fox lake) GOAL=600whp
I believe Contentsunderpressure has a p1 with a 3.2 pulley with no 8-rib conversion. If that don't slip then I doubt the D-1 would. But then agian. Listen to the Procharger Experts from ATI!
< Message edited by mylongvictor -- 5/13/2008 1:34:22 PM >
I know the P-1sc isn't supposed to slip until smaller than 3.2. But If I had a D-1sc running high boost, I would definitely pick up a Reichard racing pulley and never have to worry about slippage.
BTW the F-1A comes with an 8-rib pulley that will actually work with your stock 6-rib pulley system until you upgrade. I don't know how much pressure you can run with the F-1A on a 6-rib belt without slip though.
I know the P-1sc isn't supposed to slip until smaller than 3.2. But If I had a D-1sc running high boost, I would definitely pick up a Reichard racing pulley and never have to worry about slippage.
BTW the F-1A comes with an 8-rib pulley that will actually work with your stock 6-rib pulley system until you upgrade. I don't know how much pressure you can run with the F-1A on a 6-rib belt without slip though.
P-1SC will usually over spin at around 2.8 w/ an Rib. At that point the P1 is just screaming for mercy. A 3.0 w/ AFM Powerpipe will net my car at around 11psi. Maybe.
I know the P-1sc isn't supposed to slip until smaller than 3.2. But If I had a D-1sc running high boost, I would definitely pick up a Reichard racing pulley and never have to worry about slippage.
BTW the F-1A comes with an 8-rib pulley that will actually work with your stock 6-rib pulley system until you upgrade. I don't know how much pressure you can run with the F-1A on a 6-rib belt without slip though.
P-1SC will usually over spin at around 2.8 w/ an Rib. At that point the P1 is just screaming for mercy. A 3.0 w/ AFM Powerpipe will net my car at around 11psi. Maybe.
what rib?
BTW what heads/cams are you running? 3.0 should get you a couple more psi than that unless you have like stage 3 heads/cams, LTs, and an aftermaket intake.
I know the P-1sc isn't supposed to slip until smaller than 3.2. But If I had a D-1sc running high boost, I would definitely pick up a Reichard racing pulley and never have to worry about slippage.
BTW the F-1A comes with an 8-rib pulley that will actually work with your stock 6-rib pulley system until you upgrade. I don't know how much pressure you can run with the F-1A on a 6-rib belt without slip though.
P-1SC will usually over spin at around 2.8 w/ an Rib. At that point the P1 is just screaming for mercy. A 3.0 w/ AFM Powerpipe will net my car at around 11psi. Maybe.
what rib?
BTW what heads/cams are you running? 3.0 should get you a couple more psi than that unless you have like stage 3 heads/cams, LTs, and an aftermaket intake.
If your gonna run a 2.8 your gonna need an 8 rib. I'm Running Stock Heads an VT Stage II Blower Cams.
What pulley were you running that gave you 477rwhp @8psi? Just curious cause my car was pushing 11psi on stock heads/cams stock intake tube with a 3.4" at 400rwhp. I'm getting it dynoed tomorrow with the new motor with blower cams and the same pulley. We'll see how much the pressure reading drops. I'd be really happy with 450rwhp on the 3.4 incher. I just got a power pipe but haven't installed it yet.
I'm running a 3.40 Pulley. The 477rwhp is on the safe tune..... The more aggressive tune that I have saved on my Handheld gives me 15rwhp more at the same psi.
Where is the cheapest place to get the complete P1 intercooled setup?
I think the best deal is from JMSChip.com.
quote:
ORIGINAL: mylongvictor
I'm running a 3.40 Pulley. The 477rwhp is on the safe tune..... The more aggressive tune that I have saved on my Handheld gives me 15rwhp more at the same psi.
Nice, then I should def be in the 450rwhp range when I go to the dyno tomorrow. I am running a stock mid-pipe and the stock procharger intake tube FTL. But the AFM powerpipe should be on in the next couple of weeks. I kinda got burned out with the motor swap/blower install.
Where is the cheapest place to get the complete P1 intercooled setup?
I think the best deal is from JMSChip.com.
quote:
ORIGINAL: mylongvictor
I'm running a 3.40 Pulley. The 477rwhp is on the safe tune..... The more aggressive tune that I have saved on my Handheld gives me 15rwhp more at the same psi.
Nice, then I should def be in the 450rwhp range when I go to the dyno tomorrow. I am running a stock mid-pipe and the stock procharger intake tube FTL. But the AFM powerpipe should be on in the next couple of weeks. I kinda got burned out with the motor swap/blower install.
Why wouldnt you just put the powerpipe on? It isnt that hard is it? isnt it just the pipe that has the Filter on it? connects to Front of Blower? wont u have to pay for a retune?
Just seems like a waste if u already got it..
I dont even want to know ur gas mileage do i lol. Do you DD ur Car with the 477?
Just curious since my car is my DD and i plan to have 550-600whp. Wonderin if im going to kill myself or start using the BIKE as a DD lol....
< Message edited by Ryan86272 -- 5/13/2008 8:47:12 PM >
_____________________________
I WANT TO BUY: \/ 03 Cobra Fuel system(Tank/pumps) Rear end parts-Axels,Gears, Diff Cover 8.8(American Mus.) HPX blow through MAss air and housing.(VMP Tuning) P51 Intake (black powdercoat) (Fox lake) GOAL=600whp
Why wouldnt you just put the powerpipe on? It isnt that hard is it? isnt it just the pipe that has the Filter on it? connects to Front of Blower? wont u have to pay for a retune?
Its not a big job, but I have to cut the fender and notch the hood for clearance on the powerpipe. A powerpipe doens't add to the airflow, it just reduces the restriction on the inlet side of the blower so there shouldn't be any reason to re-tune for it. BTW, I will be tuning the car myself with Sniper Commando, and am just renting the dyno since I want to get some base numbers and its a little safer than 3rd or 4th gear pulls on the freeway.
edit: I DD my mustang and even at 400rwhp with 4.10s and I was getting at least 20mpg on the freeway. I got on average 235-240 miles to the tank about half city half freeway with some WOT. You really have to take it easy around town or else you will be in the single digits
< Message edited by tbirdscwd -- 5/13/2008 10:21:22 PM >
Ill definitely check the tune after the install, but I doubt it will require any modification. Were not talking about a huge increase of boost anyways. The maf transfer rate should take care of the added air if there is any change in the actual amount of air entering the engine, but I'll check it for sure.
Sorry to whore up the OP's thread, but here's a question for you guys then. I'm running my P1 @ 8-psi right now, and also have requisite bolt-ons, i.e. LT's, mids, exhaust, 3-core I/C, etc, and I'm pushing 448 to the wheels. I've already got the forged rods/rings ordered, so additional boost won't be an issue as I already have a forged crank. Frank from DTP tuning in VA Beach was telling me in order to turn the boost up anymore I would probably need a boost-a-pump to push much more than what I'm getting right now. Is this true or no? I haven't seen anybody here mention having one, and a number of you guys are pushing more power than I am, or will be soon. Just wondering how much I can squeeze out of the P1 on a 4v mach engine before I REALLY need to look at upgrading the head unit..
And for the OP, I got my P1 kit completely with 3-core I/C, all requisite piping, injectors and in-tank pump from DTP for a little under $4,700 if that helps any. I did buy my kit brand new but you might be able to find a used one that's it's good condition for less..
Sorry to whore up the OP's thread, but here's a question for you guys then. I'm running my P1 @ 8-psi right now, and also have requisite bolt-ons, i.e. LT's, mids, exhaust, 3-core I/C, etc, and I'm pushing 448 to the wheels. I've already got the forged rods/rings ordered, so additional boost won't be an issue as I already have a forged crank. Frank from DTP tuning in VA Beach was telling me in order to turn the boost up anymore I would probably need a boost-a-pump to push much more than what I'm getting right now. Is this true or no? I haven't seen anybody here mention having one, and a number of you guys are pushing more power than I am, or will be soon. Just wondering how much I can squeeze out of the P1 on a 4v mach engine before I REALLY need to look at upgrading the head unit..
And for the OP, I got my P1 kit completely with 3-core I/C, all requisite piping, injectors and in-tank pump from DTP for a little under $4,700 if that helps any. I did buy my kit brand new but you might be able to find a used one that's it's good condition for less..
The most I've seen a 4v push from a P1 is around 490s to 500s. The 2v I mentioned early got a little more with a P1. Both had an 8rib pulley conversion and threw in the smallest pulley you can go in a P1.