Im loking into a procharger p1-sc and I was wondering if it would be a good way to go for a supercharger????

Its definitely a good entry level blower. If you are planning on a built bottom end and big power down the road, then get something bigger. The p-1sc will take you to about 500rwhp give or take depending on mods of course. But the "safe" limit on the stock bottom end is around 400rwhp, so it you never plan on doing the bottom end its the perfect choice. All their kits come intercooled for a few hundred more than other entry level blowers that come non-intercooled.

The Procharger P1SC Stage II package is a very well balenced package. Its more then capable of taking you from 380rwhp to a little over 500rwhp. Very street friendly, very efficent at low psi. 50 state legal. All around good system. And 500rwhp is more then enough with the right supporting mods to bring you into the 11s.

Depending on your setup, max boost with an 8rib pulley is around 12psi to 14psi(maybe). The most power output I've seen from a P1 was 540rwhp @ 13psi. The thing was just sick.

If you feel the need to exceed 600rwhp, then the D1 will be your choice. I think they go up to 20psi. They are the same size as a P1, just with different impellars. You don't need an 8-rib setup if you wanna run max boost with them.

Then if you have deep pockets with just the insane need for power..... The F-1A will be your way to go. They max out at some ridculous amount of boost and run on a COG belt. They will also make your ear drums bleed at an idle from the jet powered whistle they have.

ORIGINAL: mylongvictor

The Procharger P1SC Stage II package is a very well balenced package. Its more then capable of taking you from 380rwhp to a little over 500rwhp. Very street friendly, very efficent at low psi. 50 state legal. All around good system. And 500rwhp is more then enough with the right supporting mods to bring you into the 11s.

Depending on your setup, max boost with an 8rib pulley is around 12psi to 14psi(maybe). The most power output I've seen from a P1 was 540rwhp @ 13psi. The thing was just sick.

If you feel the need to exceed 600rwhp, then the D1 will be your choice. I think they go up to 20psi. They are the same size as a P1, just with different impellars. You don't need an 8-rib setup if you wanna run max boost with them.

Then if you have deep pockets with just the insane need for power..... The F-1A will be your way to go. They max out at some ridculous amount of boost and run on a COG belt. They will also make your ear drums bleed at an idle from the jet powered whistle they have.


are u sure about that Victor? I was talking to Procharger the other day and he told me that my D1 WOULD SLIP Excessivly with the 3.2 pulley i have for it. He said i NEED the 8rib Pulley Setup.(which is like $675 shipped with the procharger pulley of your choic at THR [:'(]) If not it would Definately save me MUCHO Money lol.. I might just put a 3.8 pulley on and SPRAY to make up some HP lol...

I mean for almost 700 I can find a COMPLETE NITROUS kit :D

(SRY FOR HIJACKING THREAD OP)

Good luck with ur BLOWER!!!

I believe Contentsunderpressure has a p1 with a 3.2 pulley with no 8-rib conversion. If that don't slip then I doubt the D-1 would. But then agian. Listen to the Procharger Experts from ATI!

I know the P-1sc isn't supposed to slip until smaller than 3.2. But If I had a D-1sc running high boost, I would definitely pick up a Reichard racing pulley and never have to worry about slippage.

BTW the F-1A comes with an 8-rib pulley that will actually work with your stock 6-rib pulley system until you upgrade. I don't know how much pressure you can run with the F-1A on a 6-rib belt without slip though.

ORIGINAL: tbirdscwd

I know the P-1sc isn't supposed to slip until smaller than 3.2. But If I had a D-1sc running high boost, I would definitely pick up a Reichard racing pulley and never have to worry about slippage.

BTW the F-1A comes with an 8-rib pulley that will actually work with your stock 6-rib pulley system until you upgrade. I don't know how much pressure you can run with the F-1A on a 6-rib belt without slip though.



P-1SC will usually over spin at around 2.8 w/ an Rib. At that point the P1 is just screaming for mercy. A 3.0 w/ AFM Powerpipe will net my car at around 11psi. Maybe.

ORIGINAL: mylongvictor

ORIGINAL: tbirdscwd

I know the P-1sc isn't supposed to slip until smaller than 3.2. But If I had a D-1sc running high boost, I would definitely pick up a Reichard racing pulley and never have to worry about slippage.

BTW the F-1A comes with an 8-rib pulley that will actually work with your stock 6-rib pulley system until you upgrade. I don't know how much pressure you can run with the F-1A on a 6-rib belt without slip though.



P-1SC will usually over spin at around 2.8 w/ an Rib. At that point the P1 is just screaming for mercy. A 3.0 w/ AFM Powerpipe will net my car at around 11psi. Maybe.


what rib?

BTW what heads/cams are you running? 3.0 should get you a couple more psi than that unless you have like stage 3 heads/cams, LTs, and an aftermaket intake.

ORIGINAL: tbirdscwd

ORIGINAL: mylongvictor

ORIGINAL: tbirdscwd

I know the P-1sc isn't supposed to slip until smaller than 3.2. But If I had a D-1sc running high boost, I would definitely pick up a Reichard racing pulley and never have to worry about slippage.

BTW the F-1A comes with an 8-rib pulley that will actually work with your stock 6-rib pulley system until you upgrade. I don't know how much pressure you can run with the F-1A on a 6-rib belt without slip though.



P-1SC will usually over spin at around 2.8 w/ an Rib. At that point the P1 is just screaming for mercy. A 3.0 w/ AFM Powerpipe will net my car at around 11psi. Maybe.


what rib?

BTW what heads/cams are you running? 3.0 should get you a couple more psi than that unless you have like stage 3 heads/cams, LTs, and an aftermaket intake.



If your gonna run a 2.8 your gonna need an 8 rib. I'm Running Stock Heads an VT Stage II Blower Cams.

What pulley were you running that gave you 477rwhp @8psi? Just curious cause my car was pushing 11psi on stock heads/cams stock intake tube with a 3.4" at 400rwhp. I'm getting it dynoed tomorrow with the new motor with blower cams and the same pulley. We'll see how much the pressure reading drops. I'd be really happy with 450rwhp on the 3.4 incher. I just got a power pipe but haven't installed it yet.

Where is the cheapest place to get the complete P1 intercooled setup?

I'm running a 3.40 Pulley. The 477rwhp is on the safe tune..... The more aggressive tune that I have saved on my Handheld gives me 15rwhp more at the same psi.

ORIGINAL: Adam03GT

Where is the cheapest place to get the complete P1 intercooled setup?


I think the best deal is from JMSChip.com.

ORIGINAL: mylongvictor

I'm running a 3.40 Pulley. The 477rwhp is on the safe tune..... The more aggressive tune that I have saved on my Handheld gives me 15rwhp more at the same psi.


Nice, then I should def be in the 450rwhp range when I go to the dyno tomorrow. I am running a stock mid-pipe and the stock procharger intake tube FTL. But the AFM powerpipe should be on in the next couple of weeks. I kinda got burned out with the motor swap/blower install.

ORIGINAL: tbirdscwd

ORIGINAL: Adam03GT

Where is the cheapest place to get the complete P1 intercooled setup?


I think the best deal is from JMSChip.com.

ORIGINAL: mylongvictor

I'm running a 3.40 Pulley. The 477rwhp is on the safe tune..... The more aggressive tune that I have saved on my Handheld gives me 15rwhp more at the same psi.


Nice, then I should def be in the 450rwhp range when I go to the dyno tomorrow. I am running a stock mid-pipe and the stock procharger intake tube FTL. But the AFM powerpipe should be on in the next couple of weeks. I kinda got burned out with the motor swap/blower install.



Why wouldnt you just put the powerpipe on? It isnt that hard is it? isnt it just the pipe that has the Filter on it? connects to Front of Blower? wont u have to pay for a retune?

Just seems like a waste if u already got it..

I dont even want to know ur gas mileage do i lol. Do you DD ur Car with the 477?

Just curious since my car is my DD and i plan to have 550-600whp. Wonderin if im going to kill myself or start using the BIKE as a DD lol....

ORIGINAL: Ryan86272

Why wouldnt you just put the powerpipe on? It isnt that hard is it? isnt it just the pipe that has the Filter on it? connects to Front of Blower? wont u have to pay for a retune?


Its not a big job, but I have to cut the fender and notch the hood for clearance on the powerpipe. A powerpipe doens't add to the airflow, it just reduces the restriction on the inlet side of the blower so there shouldn't be any reason to re-tune for it. BTW, I will be tuning the car myself with Sniper Commando, and am just renting the dyno since I want to get some base numbers and its a little safer than 3rd or 4th gear pulls on the freeway.

edit: I DD my mustang and even at 400rwhp with 4.10s and I was getting at least 20mpg on the freeway. I got on average 235-240 miles to the tank about half city half freeway with some WOT. You really have to take it easy around town or else you will be in the single digits[:@]

You actually gain around 1 to 2 psi when using the powerpipe..... It allows more air through without spinning the blower any harder.

And I would also reccomed a re-tune if you even increase boost by 1psi. Just to be safe, especially if you have alot of money invested into the car.

Ill definitely check the tune after the install, but I doubt it will require any modification. Were not talking about a huge increase of boost anyways. The maf transfer rate should take care of the added air if there is any change in the actual amount of air entering the engine, but I'll check it for sure.

Sorry to whore up the OP's thread, but here's a question for you guys then. I'm running my P1 @ 8-psi right now, and also have requisite bolt-ons, i.e. LT's, mids, exhaust, 3-core I/C,etc, and I'm pushing 448 to the wheels. I've already got the forged rods/rings ordered, so additional boost won't be an issue as I already have a forged crank. Frank from DTP tuning in VA Beach was telling me in order to turn the boost up anymore I would probably need a boost-a-pump to push much more than what I'm getting right now. Is this true or no? I haven't seen anybody here mention having one, and a number of you guys are pushing more power than I am, or will be soon. Just wondering how much I can squeeze out of the P1 on a 4v mach engine before I REALLY need to look at upgrading the head unit..

And for the OP, I got my P1 kit completely with 3-core I/C, all requisite piping, injectors and in-tank pump from DTP for a little under $4,700 if that helps any. I did buy my kit brand new but you might be able to find a used one that's it's good condition for less..

ORIGINAL: Subotai_95

Sorry to whore up the OP's thread, but here's a question for you guys then. I'm running my P1 @ 8-psi right now, and also have requisite bolt-ons, i.e. LT's, mids, exhaust, 3-core I/C,etc, and I'm pushing 448 to the wheels. I've already got the forged rods/rings ordered, so additional boost won't be an issue as I already have a forged crank. Frank from DTP tuning in VA Beach was telling me in order to turn the boost up anymore I would probably need a boost-a-pump to push much more than what I'm getting right now. Is this true or no? I haven't seen anybody here mention having one, and a number of you guys are pushing more power than I am, or will be soon. Just wondering how much I can squeeze out of the P1 on a 4v mach engine before I REALLY need to look at upgrading the head unit..

And for the OP, I got my P1 kit completely with 3-core I/C, all requisite piping, injectors and in-tank pump from DTP for a little under $4,700 if that helps any. I did buy my kit brand new but you might be able to find a used one that's it's good condition for less..


The most I've seen a 4v push from a P1 is around 490s to 500s. The 2v I mentioned early got a little more with a P1. Both had an 8rib pulley conversion and threw in the smallest pulley you can go in a P1.

Im just running a stock engine besides my 2 mods. but im looking for something that will give me alot of boost, like around 10psi

Well, honestly OP, the P1 can push 12-psi with a pulley conversion like Vic mentioned. The other guys can correct me if I'm off here, but I honestly wouldn't push more than 9 or 10 psi on a stock 2v block. I've seen guys blow engines on less. The thing is to make SURE you get a good tune done for it. As long as you get that done and keep under about 400 RWHP I can't see you having any problems brudda. And centri blowers like the P1, the Vortech's and Paxton Novi's are good for DD's because you don't start building boost until you're higher in RPM's. That's just me though.


Vic: I've heard similar numbers before, so upgrading the head unit is something I'll probably have to wait and save up for. Though will I need the BAP to push 500+ out of a P1 head unit? That's what I'm trying to get at brudda. If I don't, that's money I can put into suspension work, like a new panhard, and better springs/shocks..

But im looking to get OVER 400 and maybe 450

A P-1sc will get you to your +400rwhp goal. I wouldn't recommend going much higher than that on the stock bottom end. You are gonna need some supporting mods though, like a better flowing exhaust for starters, to help your engine get there.

yea im getting either Magnaflows or SLP LM1's here soon. but I know this is a newbie question but what do u mean by my stock bottom end? like what would I need to make it not stock?

ORIGINAL: snowboard49dude

yea im getting either Magnaflows or SLP LM1's here soon. but I know this is a newbie question but what do u mean by my stock bottom end? like what would I need to make it not stock?


A Built Shortblock.(Everything Below the Heads) Rods, pistons, Crank. I tried to find a Diagram on Google but no luck. If you stay around 400(so people say) u will be ok if you have a good tune(get a Dyno Tune from a Reputable shop after install). Im not going to run my s.c untill i get my built motor in because if i blow my stock motor thats just wasted money when i can wait and sell it.


you can buy everything seperate(talk to a good machine shop to assemble). $1800-2500
OR
You can buy an already built one aswell. MMR, THR, (places like that) $2500+(thats a lowball)

Will I need all of that stuff though?? like the rods, pistons and crank?

http://www.texashotrods.com/StoreFrontProfiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sfid=70952&c=844458&i=1788 0278
I found this and it looks like a good package, but does it have everything I need? and it has the option for a D-1SC, what is that?

ORIGINAL: snowboard49dude

http://www.texashotrods.com/StoreFrontProfiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sfid=70952&c=844458&i=1788 0278
I found this and it looks like a good package, but does it have everything I need? and it has the option for a D-1SC, what is that?


D-1 is a step up from the P-1. Stronger and can provide you more boost. People with the D-1 usually range from 12 to 20psi and can push upwards of 600rwhp.

But should I upgrade to the D-1 if I have a stock block? I know ill probably need a different pully.

ORIGINAL: snowboard49dude

But should I upgrade to the D-1 if I have a stock block? I know ill probably need a different pully.


According to procharger tech (talked to them about all this stuff last week) they dont advise it. just because the d1 is meant to be ran with a built motor and higher amounts of boost. (which like Victor said 12-20psi) 12psi is pushing grounds for a stock block(rods, pistons, crank)....

what mods or PI's would I need to run on a D-1? that would be safe and all

Id say get the P1 and be done with it... Stat at like 380whp. Thats plenty Fast lol..


The D1 with around 500whp to be safe ur going to need: FUEL SYSTEM (Cobra Tank/pumps, 60lb Injectors, maybee fuel rails) 1200-1600 BUILT MOTOR ( Shortblock if you want 2000-3500) BUILT REAR END (If you do it ur self $600ish have a shop do it $1400) INTAKE (im upgrading i dont think u HAVE to, but just incase plus u need fuel rails with it) $800 TRANNY (well TKO ATLEAST 2000 or t56-2700ish then installating is more) That all off the top of my head... atleast stuff im looking at lol..

holy sh!t.....yea i think im just going to go with the P1. I just wanted alot more power because there are so many rice burners around here that think they are hot sh!t and I want to show them that thier jap cars suck balls

ORIGINAL: snowboard49dude

holy sh!t.....yea i think im just going to go with the P1. I just wanted alot more power because there are so many rice burners around here that think they are hot sh!t and I want to show them that thier jap cars suck balls

Im sorry, but if you have a P1 blower and a "Rice burner" beats you id show them some respect. They are people like us that have PRIDE in their car just like you.... Shytt if their 'rice burner" keeps up with a Full bolt-on mustang they deserve some respect.....

why dont people understand..... MONEY MAKES ANYTHING HAPPEN
Some people WANT a FAST CAR Some people want a NICE LOOKING car Some people want a Nice Sounding (system) Some people like baseball and HATE football. Some people Like Hockey and Hate Everything else.
Moral of the story.. EVERYBODY is Different.

any of you centrifugal guys ever consider running a wastegate on your setup. yea i know sounds rediculous doesnt it but, it works. saw a post on the turbo forums where there are a few people doing it. just throwing it out there for you guys, this would let you all adjust boost alot easier.

by the way i believe the use a wastegate because they come in larger sizes generally and they are better suited than a BOV for this application.

When I get a bigger blower down the road, I will be running a wastegate unless I decide to get a big KB. I figure, have it pullied for 18-20 psi and then set the wastegate for like 10-12 for the street. You just need to roll around with two tunes on your handheld. A flip chip would make it much easier. Its a very cool idea. MM+FF or 5.0 mag (i don't remember which) did a pretty good write up on a vortech fox body that they installed one on.

And I'm gonna +1 to the fact that is some ricer hands your 380-400rwhp blown mustang its ass, then he/she deserves some props.

ORIGINAL: tbirdscwd

And I'm gonna +1 to the fact that is some ricer hands your 380-400rwhp blown mustang its ass, then he/she deserves some props.


+10.. Some of those little buggers deserve a LOT of respect.. like the guy in the late 90's ish 3000GT VR4 with twin GT-40's that completely toasted me like I was standing still.. andI was doing 80.. [&:] Just because they're rice doesn't mean they're not fast.. lol

yea yea tru....But I just wanted something that would give me the power to beat most of them. Like the other night I raced an eclipse with a turbo and a P.O.S. 240sx and I beat both of them but i dont really think the eclipse tryed, he did alil but not alot, but alot of "ricers" around here think they are hot **** and everyone knows they arnt. But yea id give +2 for a ricer to beat me with a blower

Most rice rockets can be dealt with with a stock PI mustang GT. Now throw in a blower that brings it up to the 400rwhp zone, there is very few rocketeers that stand a chance even if you suck at driving. They have to have some extensive work done to walk a blown mustang. They aren't gonna be the run of the mill eclipe or integra with xenon lights and a fart can muffler.

yea like there are some pretty fast ricers, I will admit that, but there are just some who THINK they are fast....

Well back to the topic at hand......if you want to keep the stock bottom end then go P-1sc with the 3-core intercooler. If you ever have the possibility of getting the bottom end forged down the road get a D-1sc, a Novi-2000, or a T-trim.

ok sounds good. Thanks alot!!


Oh another question that adds into this.....If I ended up getting the p1 soon, would I need to go to 4.10 gears? I was thinking about getting them anyway but if I didnt get them Before the s/c would I be ok?

No problem, good luck with the build.