Posts: 14
Joined: 5/8/2008 From: a cold northern state Status: offline
Hi, people!
I need a little bit of help with my passenger door... Like the whole damn thing! First problem: The passenger window has two gremlins. The window will not work if the car has not been sitting in the sun. My AC is not working at the current time, so I always have my windows open, unless the car is going to be locked. The window always works when the car has been sitting in the sun. If it's not in the mood to work, the window doesn't move at all, but the battery guage will blip a little, so I know the switches work. I have two motors for the window, and I have switch them out, and the window does the same thing, so that tells me that the motor should be fine. What else is there? The regulator? The wires? The second thing is that the window makes a couple "thunk" sounds as it rolls up (assuming it does roll up). I have had the panel off the door, and the window rolls up smoothly, and I don't see anything amiss. Then, as the car is a 1989, you can imagine what shape the window run channels are in. I need to replace the run channels and the outside window "wipe" strip at the bottom of the window. The wipe strip is in the most dire need, because I can see it deforming because the sheet metal lip that it sits on is rusting. Is there a way to replace either of these without ripping the door apart?
the outer strip should be easy, its just a mater of opening the door, getting on ur knees, undoing the small screw that holds the molding along the window, sliding it off towards the back of the car, and removing the rivets that hold the dew wipe in place.
the inner stuff you have to take off the door panel, to say the least
GET A DOOR PANEL REMOVAL TOOL! if you take it off by hand u might deform the delicate door panel and you will HATE yourself after you see how much they cost
Posts: 14
Joined: 5/8/2008 From: a cold northern state Status: offline
Thanks for the heads up on that. Fortunately I already have the tool!! I saw the rivets that hold the strip on, and I have drilled the heads off of them, but the rivet goes all the way through the metal and the strip, and the door doesn't want to let go of the rest of the rivet. Complicating things, the window doesn't go down far enough into the frame to clear where the rivet will go if I try to bang it through the strip. I guess I was hoping for a "silver bullet" cure to remove the rivets and replace them without removing the window... Any ideas? Is there a special rivet I can replace those with that will sit flat on both sides that will not require anything besides a standard pop-rivet gun?
You say the window goes up smoothly, is this with the motor or by hand on the regulator. If you havn't check yet, try moving the window by hand with the regulator. If there is too much resistance or it is binding, try to lube it. If the lube doesn't work you may need to replace the regulator. I have been there.
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89 LX Coupe: Factory 5.0, common performance and suspension bolt-ons (306 build inprogress) 86 GT: (current 1/4 project) will have primarily Team Z suspension and chassis additions, 408 with nitrous in the works 2003 Mach 1: programer, exhaust, 4.10'
Kijnda sounds like a wiring problem or moody switch. I would get new bushings that the regulator rides on as well. As for the rivets get a small punch and hammer them out
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89 2.3 Turbo, 82 T-Top Notch 5.0, 86 LX T-Top 5.0 roller and 86 GT Black in and out with Gt 40X Heads, Smoothed Engine Bay, Battery in Trunk, SLP's, Bolt-on's
Posts: 14
Joined: 5/8/2008 From: a cold northern state Status: offline
Newsflash: If I hold down the window switch for like 15 seconds, sometimes it will finally kick in, and operate the window. When it does move, it moves normally, like it never had the problem. What it doesn't do, is jerk or seem to "break free" and then start moving, which would indicate a mechanical issue, like a regulator. It just starts moving like you just hit the switch.
PJC, The window does go up and down relatively smoothly (it rocks slightly front to back as it goes up) when the motor is working, but I never thought to check it by hand. What is involved in switching the bushings, and how the heck do you get them out of there? What is involved *gulp* in changing the regulator? But would the regulator cause the window to work sometimes and do nothing others?
Stang8689, if I try to punch out the rivets, due to their position in relation to the window glass, I'm afraid I might shatter the glass. I have beaten on them a little bit, and they won't come out of there easily even though I drilled the heads off of the rivets. They are in there TIGHT. If I do manage to get these out of there, what kind of rivets can I replace them with after I switch out the dew wipe? I think blind rivets will interfere with the window...
It would be very difficult to near impossible for me to give you a step to step guide, it is a very difficult job. Almost everything is riveted to the door panel and a small right hand drill is needed to get inside the door and drill the rivets out. If the car needs paint it may be easier to replace the door, I know this is bold but changing out the regulator is a B**ch! If you have not replaced tracks or a regulator before, you may whant to find someone who has.
One other thing to look at, your last discription of the problem made me think a bit. Have you check the amount of voltage you have going to the motor when the switch is pressed? Have you check to ensure there is power there at the motor as soon a the switch is pressed?
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89 LX Coupe: Factory 5.0, common performance and suspension bolt-ons (306 build inprogress) 86 GT: (current 1/4 project) will have primarily Team Z suspension and chassis additions, 408 with nitrous in the works 2003 Mach 1: programer, exhaust, 4.10'