I am replacing the bolts on my UCA because I have a clunk that will not go away. I'm hoping this will fix it, but I wanted to make sure I was doing everything correctly. I have removed my Steeday Sway bar, and factory panhard bar. The UCA is installed, rear suspension fully extended, and bolts are snug. If I understand correctly, I will lower the car to ride height (suspension loaded), then torgue to 129ft lbs. I will then install my sway bar, and panhard bar (I bought a BMR one). any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
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06 Yellow GT 5 Speed. Pro 5.0 shifter, Steeda HD rear sway bar with billet end links, BMR combo adj LCA's, BMR combo UCA, BMR adj panhard bar, K&N CAI, Steeda strut tower brace, Magnaflow Magnapack cat back, B*A*M*A chips SCT.
I am replacing the bolts on my UCA because I have a clunk that will not go away. I'm hoping this will fix it, but I wanted to make sure I was doing everything correctly. I have removed my Steeday Sway bar, and factory panhard bar. The UCA is installed, rear suspension fully extended, and bolts are snug. If I understand correctly, I will lower the car to ride height (suspension loaded), then torgue to 129ft lbs. I will then install my sway bar, and panhard bar (I bought a BMR one). any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
Hi Joe,
You need a couple of these Steeda UCA 555-4110 stepped spacers. See the lower paragraph description.
HTH!
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2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
You need a couple of these Steeda UCA 555-4110 stepped spacers. See the lower paragraph description.
HTH!
I'm a little confused even after reading the description. What exactly are these spacers doing, and where do they go?
Hi jz,
These are like spacers with a short sleeve that goes into the UCA mounting hole to take up the extra space between the UCA mount's 16mm hole and the UCA's 14mm pivot bolt. It's basically just a circular shim to take out the play which eliminates movement on the bolt in the UCA mount which makes that noise. When I still had the stock UCA mount they worked perfectly.
HTH!
_____________________________
2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
These are like spacers with a short sleeve that goes into the UCA mounting hole to take up the extra space between the UCA mount's 16mm hole and the UCA's 14mm pivot bolt. It's basically just a circular shim to take out the play which eliminates movement on the bolt in the UCA mount which makes that noise. When I still had the stock UCA mount they worked perfectly.
HTH!
Okay, one last question. You said when you still had the stock mount. I was considering buying the BMR mount since I'm going to have everything apart again. Is this part needed for the BMR mount? And also, is the stock mount that bad of a piece that I should consider the BMR one or is the stock one fine once the spacers are installed? Ha, I guess I had two questions! My car is not my DD, and I'm just looking to make it a better street performer.
Thanks for all the help.
joe
_____________________________
06 Yellow GT 5 Speed. Pro 5.0 shifter, Steeda HD rear sway bar with billet end links, BMR combo adj LCA's, BMR combo UCA, BMR adj panhard bar, K&N CAI, Steeda strut tower brace, Magnaflow Magnapack cat back, B*A*M*A chips SCT.
These are like spacers with a short sleeve that goes into the UCA mounting hole to take up the extra space between the UCA mount's 16mm hole and the UCA's 14mm pivot bolt. It's basically just a circular shim to take out the play which eliminates movement on the bolt in the UCA mount which makes that noise. When I still had the stock UCA mount they worked perfectly.
HTH!
Okay, one last question. You said when you still had the stock mount. I was considering buying the BMR mount since I'm going to have everything apart again. Is this part needed for the BMR mount? And also, is the stock mount that bad of a piece that I should consider the BMR one or is the stock one fine once the spacers are installed? Ha, I guess I had two questions! My car is not my DD, and I'm just looking to make it a better street performer.
Thanks for all the help.
joe
Hi joe,
Don't buy the BMR, it is not as good as the Steeda Comp UCA/UCA mount setup. To take full advantage of the Steeda UCA mount you MUST use the Steeda Comp UCA which is longer than a stock UCA by a couple of inches. This is the whole idea and where Steeda's Comp UCA/UCA mount gets its geometric advantage over the BMR UCA and UCA mount. The BMR UCA mount is only a partial fix but a fix with a downside due to the stock length UCA when adjusted to the alternate adjustment hole in the BMR UCA mount.
The stock mount is O.K. for a N/A motor but may be marginal for a drag car with a blower. The stock mount is not terrible but offers nothing in the way of options to improve your rear axle's suspension control arm geometry. This is why Steeda's Comp UCA/UCA mount kit is best. For a normal street car all you really need are the stepped spaces and an adjustable UCA with poly bushing.
HTH!
_____________________________
2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
I'll stay with the stock mount and spacers. I would like to go FI some day, but that's a long time a way. Money's tight right now, and I really want to get my car back on the road. I'll be ordering those spacers tonight. Ha, and I guess a new bolt and nut too!
Joe
_____________________________
06 Yellow GT 5 Speed. Pro 5.0 shifter, Steeda HD rear sway bar with billet end links, BMR combo adj LCA's, BMR combo UCA, BMR adj panhard bar, K&N CAI, Steeda strut tower brace, Magnaflow Magnapack cat back, B*A*M*A chips SCT.
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UCA install question - 
