So after months of searching, I finally found a bolt-in 8in rear end for my 66 coupe. Seller has a 65 and is doing a complete frame off restore and upgrading to a 9in. Wife says everything has to go, thus he only wants $50 (yep, that’s correct). Seller says it rolls and the perches are solid, no leaks, dents or noises. That said, couple of questions: 1) I’m replacing my 7.25 with this 8 in and would like to know if I can use my existing driveshaft? 2) Aside from popping the cover and looking for cracks or metal shavings, can anyone give me some inspection tips or anything else to look for? For the price and pain of trying to find one, I’m thinking I can’t go wrong, but I too have a wife though, nuff said? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated…Many thanks in advance
1) I’m replacing my 7.25 with this 8 in and would like to know if I can use my existing driveshaft?
I had a 6banger as well with the 7.25 and I'm currently upgrading to 9" I've never tried an 8", but this is what you might come across: a) the U-joint. I'm quite sure you'll have to replace that one. In my setup the original U-joint is 1" outer diameter on all 4 sides, and the length over both axis was same. the rear-axle you got has a different size yoke, so to use your old driveshaft you'll have to get a hybrid U-joint. the yokes usually have a designation like 1310 (i *THINK* that's what you have). If you get measurements of your original u-joint and measurements of the new rearaxle yoke every mustang parts house should be able to give you the correct one. It's very easy to replace the rear one, as it's only hold down by two u-bolts (which you will need to get as well)
b) the driveshaft length. the rear axle yoke might be ending further front than the old one. So from this your original driveshaft needs to be cut/welded and balanced. But someone who has done this swap before will be able to tell you.
Kalli
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1964 1/2 289 2bbl (autolite 2100) with holley headers and flowmaster 40s new: Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac loc from FRPP and T5. CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. New wheels and tyres
I dropped an 8inch rear end in my 68 coupe this past winter (upgrade from the 7.25). It bolted right up to the existing drive shaft. If I were you, I'd take a look and see what gears it has (there should be a metal tag on one of the 3rd member bolts)- mine had 2.79 ratio so I swapped in 3.50, much more pep.
I dropped an 8inch rear end in my 68 coupe this past winter (upgrade from the 7.25). It bolted right up to the existing drive shaft. If I were you, I'd take a look and see what gears it has (there should be a metal tag on one of the 3rd member bolts)- mine had 2.79 ratio so I swapped in 3.50, much more pep.
with the same u-joint?
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1964 1/2 289 2bbl (autolite 2100) with holley headers and flowmaster 40s new: Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac loc from FRPP and T5. CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. New wheels and tyres
sweet. that's great news. if the u-joint stays the same and the driveshaft length is ok, it couldn't be any easier
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1964 1/2 289 2bbl (autolite 2100) with holley headers and flowmaster 40s new: Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac loc from FRPP and T5. CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. New wheels and tyres
Id striped it down clean up the housing maybe powder coat it replace the diff and ring and pinion gears for something better.If you want a easy cheap way clean it up and replace the gear oil and axle seals and rebuild the drums.
Id striped it down clean up the housing maybe powder coat it replace the diff and ring and pinion gears for something better.If you want a easy cheap way clean it up and replace the gear oil and axle seals and rebuild the drums.
don't forget the bearings
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1964 1/2 289 2bbl (autolite 2100) with holley headers and flowmaster 40s new: Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac loc from FRPP and T5. CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. New wheels and tyres
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65 8in rear found (finally) - 
