Looking to improve the stance and handling of my GT.I was wondering if anyone would reccomend the FRPP handling package and let me know if ride quality suffered much.

i have heard good things about the frpp pack...however, i think you can get a better setup by going with tokico d-spec shocks and struts and getting the other pieces from BMR orSteeda...with the BMR, it would probably end up being cheaper too

i was thinking about tokico shocks and struts (not the d-specs) and then getting some eibach springs to bring the car down an inch or so.

they can be got for alot less than brenspeed if you shop ebay (new, and from reputable sellers)

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_1696246/tm.htm

Hey Matt, is that info from crazyAL on spot as far as correctness?

I would say pretty damn close. He hasnt been around for quite a while but he does know his stuff. I used that to build my car for the most part, its all BMR and maybe a bit stiff for DD but i dont mind it

I have a SGT with the FRPP Handling Pack, it is amazing. I've driven stock GT's, GT500's, Bullitt's, by far this suspension is tight and the sterring feel is second to none. Personally, I love it.

is that info from crazyAL on spot as far as correctness?
I skimmed through that linked thread, and found that there's room for discussion on a few of the points. In no particular order . . .

Poly isn't an end-all, be-all solution. In fact, used indiscriminately it will deteriorate handling rather than improve it. There are places where it should not be used.

For a Panhard bar brace, it's poor structural practice to put a bend of any kind in a member that can be subjected to compression - it makes it easier for the member to buckle, and compromises its stiffness. That's exactly what a "bump" for exhaust clearance sounds like to me as a structural engineer. Even if you make the brace strong enough, it won't be as rigid as a straight brace, and adding stiffness (aka "rigidity")to the PHB's chassis side pickup point so it won't move a littleis a big part of the reason for putting the bracethere in the first place.

I would also argue that a rear sta-bar (aka "sway bar", "anti-roll bar") does not help you during the early stages of corner exit. It transfers more lateral load from the cornering part, whichworks against the amount of "forward bite" available at least until you're mostly straightened out. It may work for a driver who "points and shoots" like he's driving between 90° neighborhood turns (only faster) or keeps the traction control engaged, but that isn't either the fastest way or the smoothest.

Koni struts/shocks are now available, so there is choice where perhaps there wasn't back when Al put that information together.

I didn't see any mention of alignment. Car use that's hard enough in the corners to warrant suspension upgrades is hard enough to revisit the alignment specs to get the most out of the upgrades. Any tendency to drive the corners a little harder suggests setting a little more static negative camber, or at the very least checking it to see where it is and going from there. For now, let's just say that a zero camber setting is not consistent with installing the FRPP package or any other suspension handling upgrade.


On edit and back to the OP's question, I had considered the FRPP package. But I figure that I can work up a more suitable combination from various suppliers. Maybe even tweak things a bit from there.


Norm

Back when Al was around i asked him in length about such questions and set up my car accordingly..

I have BMR everything with D-specs and my car handles amazing..i cant seem to push it enough. i back off cause i am scarred it seems to have endless grip..
And i drive very hard..

But with countless combinations out there..u have to pick the setup thats right for you..

I have no regrets in my set up...Good luck