RE: rad. flush and refill HELP
That just came up as google for me! Anyways, Buy a haynes manual and it will tell you. I would unhook the lower hose that goes into the therm housing. I would really change the thermostat while you have all of the coolant out. They are only a couple of bucks and the last thing you want is a faulty thermostat because you'll have to drain out ALL of the coolant again! When you have everything together (double check all of your clamps are on) You need to fill the resevoir until it won't take anymore. Then you need to unscrew the block/off screw on the crossover tune. A 1/4" ratchet fts perfect. You will probably break an extension so just use the ratchet itself as the shaft on the unit itslef is pretty tough. It's gonna be very hard and all the sudden you will think you broke the socket...haha That's what all I have done sounded like. It just means it's loosened or you actually broke the socket! You need to pour coolant slowly into there as that fills the other side of the motor! This is a MUST MUST MUST or your coolant will not circulate and you'll run your waterpump dry! After coolant flows over the top, screw the plug back on and keep your resevior cap off. Start the car and get it up to temp. Just keep an eye on the coolant level. It shouldn't get lower, if anything it will overflow out of the resevior. No big deal. After the car gets warm, shut it down and let it cool. After it's on the lower side of the temp range squeeze the left rad. hose gently to get any trapped air out of there. Do that a few times. Start your car agian and get warm. Then shut off, top off if necessary and put your coolant reseviour cap back on and your all set. ( drive over cardboard before you begin as the cardboard will soak up most of the coolant that gets spilled! Makes for an easy clean-up.
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1997 Cobra Vortech V2 SQ 3.3" Pulley , Steeda Powerpipe, LT's, Magnaflows, 473rwhp 468rwtq @11psi
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