I think my traction control is stuck on. when ever my car goes to a high rpm the engine bogges down like it was just kicked in the nuts. I also tried to do a few doughnuts the other day and the same thing happened. the engine bogged down so bad it stalled. how can i fix this? It never did this when I first bought it. I have tried to push the T/C botton off but doesn't work. please help.
The T/C will (should) never kick in unless the wheels are spinning, and shouldn't stall the engine. When one or both rear wheels do spin it will first reduce engine torque and then if needed engage the anti-lock braking system on the appropriate wheel. Is the T/C LED on or off, or does the LED behave as it should and you are still experiencing the problem you describe? You could be experiencing fuel starvation at high power levels, what year and how many miles on your car?
_____________________________
-cliff knight- My Mustang 2003 GT, UPR X, Magnaflow, 180° stat, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Sniper tuned 3.73s, 252 rwHP/296 ft.lb. Multi-fuel: burns gas and rubber...
A failed component of the TCS and ABS system CAN AND WILL do what you describe.
Start by replacing the switch. If you read the wiring diagram, you'll see why your car can bogg and shut off because of even a failed Traction Control switch. It can get you killed.. it is unpredictable.
If the switch doesnt solve your problem (it solved mine) then you need inspect the whole TC/ABS system. A factory scan tool may be needed to check codes and systems normal scan tools cant read.
Here's the wiring diagram for the T/C switch (N.O. SPST momentary between pins 1 and 2), all it does is pull a CMOS input on the instrument cluster logic to +12V each time it's pressed. The input pin is normally held low via an internal resistor tied to ground, this a typical arrangement for signaling CMOS logic that an action has taken place--the resistor is probably 10k or so, the current when the switch is pressed is around 1 mA. Why would a defective T/C switch cause the car to bog?
_____________________________
-cliff knight- My Mustang 2003 GT, UPR X, Magnaflow, 180° stat, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Sniper tuned 3.73s, 252 rwHP/296 ft.lb. Multi-fuel: burns gas and rubber...
It depends how the switch fails. Show another diagram with the TCS and ABS systems on one page and i'll see what i can find. I've seen too many crazy things in the electrical diagnosis area to be surprised anymore OR..You could just unplug the traction control switch from its harness and find out for yourself...
< Message edited by Jbauer -- 5/11/2008 4:18:49 PM >
I agree that computers can be flakey, I've been building and programming them since the mid-70's, however unplugging the T/C switch cannot alter anything as it is a normally open switch that pulls a sinked input high when pressed. Having it unplugged is the same as not pressing the button. This is not to say that the ABS and T/C logic could not be scrambled, but in the absence of wheel spin neither system should kick in--the original poster may have a bad Hall effect sensor at one of the rear wheels. I wonder if he has recently had some rear axle work done? I have more than once seen the rear sensors dislocated and/or damaged by ham-handed mechanics when they pull the axles. This should fire the ABS light though...
_____________________________
-cliff knight- My Mustang 2003 GT, UPR X, Magnaflow, 180° stat, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Sniper tuned 3.73s, 252 rwHP/296 ft.lb. Multi-fuel: burns gas and rubber...
when i bought the car the rear pumkin was leaking i made the dealer fix it. you say there may be a sensor loose or damaged on my axle? the T/C light kicks on when the T/C does.
the T/C kicks on when the traction breaks loose, but it bogs down so bad that it almost stalls. The light turns on when it is suposed to, but there is no way for me to trun it off. i'm going to take it in and have it look at. soon.
the T/C kicks on when the traction breaks loose, but it bogs down so bad that it almost stalls. The light turns on when it is suposed to, but there is no way for me to trun it off. i'm going to take it in and have it look at. soon.
What "light" are you talking about?--the ABS light on the instrument cluster or the traction control on/off light in the switch? The LED on the switch is ON when traction control is OFF, the "idiot light" in the cluster is ON when ABS or traction control is active--or-- when there is a problem with the ABS or traction control system.
_____________________________
-cliff knight- My Mustang 2003 GT, UPR X, Magnaflow, 180° stat, PP 70mm TB & plenum, Sniper tuned 3.73s, 252 rwHP/296 ft.lb. Multi-fuel: burns gas and rubber...
i think the problem might be the nitro system thats in it. there are a few wires goingto the T/C switch and to the system and one of the wires are bareaand not hooked to anything.
Printable Version
Traction control stuck on? - 
The input pin is normally held low via an internal resistor tied to ground, this a typical arrangement for signaling CMOS logic that an action has taken place--the resistor is probably 10k or so, the current when the switch is pressed is around 1 mA. Why would a defective T/C switch cause the car to bog?
