when i crank the car it turns over but does not fire up and when i stop cranking it, it turns over itself for a second and bogs like it's starting. i've tried holding the pedal down while doing this but no luck. it smells like gas as well when i do it. im out of ideas and need some help
mjr, what he meant was we stuck a plug in one of the wires, i pulled a wire off and stuck a plug in it and stuck it on the block to check if it was getting spark to the plugs and yea we were getting spark. one thing i was thinking of was that maybe the vaccume leak he has is causing the regulator to not shut off and is just dumping too much fuel in since the regulator is drivin by vaccume, but then again, maybe his 22 year old regulator finally gave out. and yea, he's a friend of mine and we do alot of our work together, it helps to have another persons point of view on the same situation alot of the time
we were able to get the car started once but it was idling at 3 grand, i dont know what would cause one to rev that high unless the throttle was open and i know it isnt cause i've checked. but after that it wouldnt crank up anymore and continued to wreak of gas. a tech i work with said it may be the map sensor, possibly went bad and is reading no vaccume and thinks the engine is reving up instead of idling.
Pat & Amandas Wedding Fund Contributor Posts: 2915
Joined: 7/21/2003 From: United States Status: offline
vacuum leak wouldn't cause it not to start. vacuum leak effects how it runs after start (basically it would start, then die if there was a HUGE vacuum leak.
Sounds to me like your problem is going to be fuel pump, filter, regulator or spark related. You can eliminate the fuel problems by checking fuel pressure. Then it'll be down to the timing, coil, or a part on the disty.
Just because you get spark through the wires doesn't mean you can eliminate the coil as the problem. You can still have a weak spark through it.
What happens if you prime the pump a couple times before trying to start it? Like: key on, key off, key on, key off, key on, then try to start it. Does it start then die shortly after? If it does the problem is fuel related. If not I'd still check fuel pressure just in case then move on to spark.
You can test the coil with an olm meter if you have one. Unplug the connector on the coil aswell as the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes) where the connector went from the positive to negative (or neg to pos, doesn't matter on olms) you should get somewhere like .75 to .81 olms. From one of the posts to the tension terminal it should be 10,000 to 11,000 olms.
Let us know the results of both of those to help narrow it down.
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If you have to ask what it takes to get to 500 HP, you don''t have what it takes to get there.
''89 Mustang GT ''86 Mustang vert ''84 Mustang notch turbocharged ''96 Mustan
thanks foxgt it twas the coil in the past 5 days i replaced
1. tps 2. tfi module 3. fuel pump (wouldn't turn on) 4. cap 5. rotor 6. coil (extra one i had lying around) 7. and properly stabbed my dizzy
it's idleing at 3200 i unplugged my map and it went down to 2200 i know there is some crazy vac leaks im gonna fix over the weekend and stuff. but i know i replaced all the goodies and gave it a good tune up in general so i should be set for a while with the new parts
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