i'm looking to lower my car CHEAPLY. i want to not only lower it, but give it a much better stance. i want like 1.5 in the rear, and 1-1.3 in the front.

i also want to get rid of the goddamn plowing understeer that plagues this car. i want the car to ride stiffer, feel more of the road.


i'm looking at steeda ultralites, eibach pro-kit, and the ford racing ones.

ALSO,

what about wheel spacers? i want the rears to stick out maybe an inch/half inch further, give it more of a natural stance when its lowered. any ideas?

This is mine with the stock 17's and Ford racing springs. Just perfect for me.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k9/DEPPDRLA69/HPIM0247.jpg
I didn't want to go too low knowing I was getting 20's but even now Sportlines would still be good.

hmmm.......kinda hard to get an idea of the height from that angle, do you have any other pics?

Youll find a lot of info on here, I ve got some pics of before and after shots at the car domain site below. but since I have side exhaust the frpp springs were 2 inches low and I had to take them off ,sell them and get steeda spring. still low in the back but better. See Taco bills how to change the springs. I cant tell you about the eibach's cause I hant tried them. One thing I will tell you is It starts with springs and rolls into a lot of stuff trying to get it all balanced back out. Sometimes when you lower one of these the axle shifts (outward towards driver side) then you have to get a adj panhard bar then your LCA are leaning the wrong way etc etc etc.
Its a fun but exspensive chase. I' lltry to get some goodpicsof the steeda springs on there. but I have got shots with a ruler of before and after frpp springs.

hope this helps a little I have become addicted to modding........
send more money please!!!
Stock wheels at first then 19 x 295 x 35 by 9.5 inch rims they stick out a wee bit but do not rub
wheel spacers depend probably on your offset and depth of your rims dont they?

I have the Eibach springs 1.5 rear and 1.3 fronts I believe ,and this is with 20" wheels but overall tire height is 27" and that leaves me with a 2" gap at the center of the wheel opening . Here they are.

local://upfiles/55588/FB985152E32A4D51B999EA8221E674B3.jpg

local://upfiles/55588/8E07646938004F88B11044F43EDE5241.jpg

local://upfiles/55588/D5D4B526C5654890854CAE5F4365DD46.jpg

Eibach Pro with 18" Rims. 255/45/18 Tires. If you want then to "stick out" get rims with a 35 offset.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/2483361134_fd4c79304a_o.jpg

ford racing springs. If you want the rims to stick out some, then get wider rims. A spacer is a bad idea.

http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/image/92950251.jpg

eibach pro-kit

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa128/alljmustang/P1210071.jpg


+1 get wider tires/rims and don't mess with spacers.

EBR...is that stock paint?..if so what do use on it?

i bought my pro-kit off of ebay for 179$ shipped. so far i love my springs and it was very easy to install

Yes, stock paint but you are not the first to ask butdont laugh to hardthat I wash with Polmolive dish soap .LOL Alao in my first post said that I have a 2' gap butI just remembered thats becouse there is no motor, trans, or exhaust inthe car so that might not be acurate. It was all installed in the pics.

Stiffer rear swaybar will fix the understeer in a jiffy.

ORIGINAL: BlackBetty

Stiffer rear swaybar will fix the understeer in a jiffy.


really? seems like you'd have to change something in the front, you know? like upon turn in how the front wheels plow, that would fix that? who sells them? any particular one you'd reccomend?

i'll get a pic for you tomorrow...well later today, of my car with the FRPPs. Looking at my car from the rear, I was following my brother while we swapped cars for a day, and besides drooling at my car's ass, I noticed the tires look spread enough for me.

I don't feel much understeer, if at all, now. Car rides "fun" now, but literally goes airborne on the speed bumbs in front of Best Buy at only like 5-10mph. The bumpstops to frame clearance at rear is only like 3/4in, so you really feel the bumps in the road. This summer I'm working a lot to get some shocks. I'm leaning on d-specs but i dunno if I want to fork out the money. I'll see what it comes down to in a couple months.

check out this old thread for pics:

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_2808935/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff320/twesterh/lowered-2.jpg

Steeda Ultralights on mine......perfect drop for me.

local://upfiles/80335/25BEC7412A734199990D9CDAD0945720.jpg

ATTN: ALLJ:

I noticed you have the Cervini's Side Exhausts... I just got them put on my mustang, do you have "Rubbing" or Ground Clearance problems? I have 16" rims and tires, and it seems like they RUB all the time (pipes under the car rubs)... I am looking at getting 20" rims and tires to help solve the problem, as right now I would guess I have 2" of ground clearance on the pipes themselves...

Here is where my problems lie...

http://www.rpm3dinc.com/ExhaustRear.jpg (http://www.rpm3dinc.com/ExhaustRear.jpg)

http://www.rpm3dinc.com/ExhaustSide.jpg (http://www.rpm3dinc.com/ExhaustSide.jpg)

See how much room I currently have? LOL and this car is STOCK, meaning I have not lowered it

Any other suggestions?

Hi there, have you made a decision on your springs yet? BMR springs are specifically designed to provide optimal handling without sacrificing ride quality. The front springs are progressive wound to provide variable rates. The soft portion of the progressive winding maintains near OE ride quality. When the suspension is loaded during aggressive cornering, the springs enter into the stiffer portion of the spring. We have designed additional spring rate into this portion of the spring.The rear springs are linear wound with the same proven spring rate as OE. Part number SP009 will lower the front 1.25" and the rear 1.5", "levelling" the car. The part number is SP009 for both front and rear $229.95 per set of four.BMR provides a lifetime warranty against spring sag. Let me know if you have any further questions.

F1 isgoing to cringe when he reads this.

ok ,finally got pics.

ORIGINAL: Vapour Trails
F1 isgoing to cringe when he reads this.



Hi Vapor Trails,

LOL!Am I that obvious? I'm not cringing really I'm not (O.K. maybe just a little)! I just feel badly for all of the folks who will listen to yet another vendor trying to make a buckby replying in these thread. These poorundereducated new Mustang owners and thread readers looking for real advice come across this simplistic marketing B.S. posted by what appears to be a vendor and they suck it up for gospel. Chances are the vendor's guy doing the posts has no idea what he is posting or what he is saying or how the springs were designed. Chances arethevendor's poster doesn't even ownan S197 Mustang and probably hasn't even driven an S197 let alone driven one on a road course.

Sigh, so many Mustang people to help and so muchmarketing B.S. toovercome...

Cheers!

ORIGINAL: F1Fan

I just feel badly for all of the folks who will listen to yet another vendor trying to make a buckÂ*by replying in these thread.Â* These poorÂ*undereducated new Mustang owners and thread readers looking for real advice come across this simplistic marketing B.S. posted by what appears to be a vendor and they suck it up for gospel.Â* . . .

Sigh, so many Mustang people to help and so muchÂ*marketing B.S. toÂ*overcomeÂ*...



help us obi-wan, you may be our last hope!

seriously though, i dont want to be gullible-joe-spring-buyer,
so please help teach me how to figure this stuff out.

i have been scrutinizing all these "spring picture" threads,
and one may look better on such and so color stang, with certain size rims, in this lighting,
and a different spring looks better on a different color stang with a different rim (or rim size) in different lighting.

not all that much help, even when controlling for color by just looking at black stangs.
(plz don't think i think that color of stang makes as much of a difference in the real world, just how the picture in the thread looks)

twice as important as that is the performance(since the look is only about 33% of the equation, and handling is about 66%).
these do nothing to answer how they ride.

sure, a poster says "i like it" (few if any have said they didn't).
they all say "stiffer than stock" . . . "handles like it is on rails". . . well, DUH!!!!!

F1fan, you say progressives are all marketing hype, i can certainly see how that is the case,
if, as you allege, the softer rate is all taken up by the body and frame simply loading the suspension, and you are now into the steeper spring rate before you even start rolling.

however, if the spring manufacturer put the shoulder of the curve in the right place, so that there was still some soft spring rate even after "loading" then the "progressive" rates would be the bomb, and do just what they are purported to do.

my question is how does one determine which case is the reality??

moving on from teh linear vs provgressive decision, is the
which linear spring decision?

i have an '08 bullitt, and am looking for about 1-1.5" drop in front, and 1.5-2" in back.

i am torn between the eibach prokit, and steeda ultralights, and perhaps frpp, (?steeda sports?) - - - i believe these are all linear rate springs?
i will be adding koni sport dampers when i do the springs.

i am guessing all four of these choices are probably within about 1/2" of another in terms of lowering. if so, any would be fine.

what do i then look for in a spring rate? and what other criteria should help make the decision?
this will be a daily driver, which i hope ot track 4x this yer, and 9x next year.
when i had ultralights, and tokikos on the convertible i usually kept them 2 turn from full firm, for daily driving, i like the stiff feel.

thanks,
ignorant but striving to learn,
doc

Dock, I agree with everything F1 said, especially about the coil overs. For the more "discerning" enthusiast, you get the ride height (and look, if that's important, and lets face it...it is) you want, and you can play with spring rates until the cows come home. I'm always messing with my adjust-ability, learning every time I make a change. It's probably going to give you the most return for any money you spend on your car, becausefor forever, you can turn a little adjuster in about a second, and get an immediate result. There are three I'd recommend, if you choose to go that route. They all use an adjustable spring perch on the rear, with a standard damper in the stock location. Still, you have the ride height adjustability and spring assortment to play with. The ones I have are from Ground Control. They make their own front strut housing, which is a nicely made part, and use a Koni strut cartridge, either single or double adjustable. They use Eibach springswound to their specs. My second choice would be the KW, either V3 or Clubsport. The V3 uses a stock configured spring, so really doesn't get you the spring choices you want, but the ride height and single damping is adjustable. The Club Sport is double adjustable and uses the standard 66mm (or 2 1/2") spring. The KW is a dedicated quality damper, not a cartridge in a strut housing. I don't know the availability of the Club Sport, but when I bought the GC's. it wasn't quite available yet. The third choice would be the Steeda which is definitely a less expensive alternative, but it seems to be getting favorable reviews.;)I think like F1 said, if you;re really serious about setting your suspension up to your specific liking, you might as well skip all the shopping and swapping, and just go for the adjustability. There are some nuances with DA dampers, but it's not rocket science. I'm sure someone here could walk you through it. Oh, and one other advantage of adjustable ride height, even though relatively low on the priority but a nice advantage, is corner balancing. Something I haven't had a chance to do on my car yet, but it would be interesting.

Damn that is low! I have the stock springs and don't rub or scrape. I do have 20's but get at least 35-40 series tire on the back if you get 20's. Nitto INVO and Toyo make a 40 series for the stang but the toyo's are originally for sport trucks wiht 20's The overall height from stock will be taller by about 1.3" or more so adj the speedo accordingly. To be honest 16's have no place for that exhaust IMO....looks good though:D just not liking the 16 inch rims at all.ORIGINAL: RPM3DINC

ATTN: ALLJ:

I noticed you have the Cervini's Side Exhausts... I just got them put on my mustang, do you have "Rubbing" or Ground Clearance problems? I have 16" rims and tires, and it seems like they RUB all the time (pipes under the car rubs)... I am looking at getting 20" rims and tires to help solve the problem, as right now I would guess I have 2" of ground clearance on the pipes themselves...

Here is where my problems lie...

http://www.rpm3dinc.com/ExhaustRear.jpg (http://www.rpm3dinc.com/ExhaustRear.jpg)

http://www.rpm3dinc.com/ExhaustSide.jpg (http://www.rpm3dinc.com/ExhaustSide.jpg)

See how much room I currently have? LOL and this car is STOCK, meaning I have not lowered it

Any other suggestions?

I was asking about suspension too. after quite a few posts some one recomended Vogtland GT500 Springs and an Adjustable panhard bar

oh lowers .8" in front and 1.2" in the rear on a GT....they are linear rate instead of prograssive like the eibachs are. its what i'm going to get when i get teh money. the guy has won a few championships racing mustangs and is very knowledgable

Yea, I got 20" rims and Nitto 555 tires.. and no more rubbing issues... YEAH!

Plus my Mustang took 2nd Best 2005+ Category at the SuperStang Fest at Rockingham a couple of weeks ago... there was roughly 60 to 70 stangs there... My little V6 with Cervini's C500 Kit beat Roush and Saleens and even a few Shelby's in the 2005+ Category... LOL I guess you don't have to spend $50,000 + on a Mustang to have a good time anymore.. LOL

ORIGINAL: BLACKSTEED611

oh lowers .8" in front and 1.2" in the rear on a GT....they are linear rate instead of prograssive like the eibachs are. its what i'm going to get when i get teh money. the guy has won a few championships racing mustangs and is very knowledgable


I owe Sam a phone call about my Koni settings, but are you sure the Vogtland springs are linear?

it was what Sam said they were and he told me its what he uses and recomends. they look linear in the pic too. so unless the do some funky SciFi stuff with the metal.

Here's a good pic of my steeda ultralites.


local://upfiles/72686/EF9F328D6D844913A78F64C53B8D9BFE.jpg