Just got back from the dealership, they should be here wednesday or thursday. I'm so excited, just love the feeling of getting a new mod for the car:).
Anyway, I want to install them myself and have a couple questions. My friend works at a dealership so ive got access to a lift and some tools. Are there any parts of the install that are somewhat tricky or not covered clearly in the instructions? What did you use to cut the Y Pipe?
I installed the aeroturbine myself, but haven't done anything like a catback install before and don't want to end up messing the install up. It will be on the car by friday one way or another and I'll post pics as well as my thoughts on power/sound vs my aero turbine.
If you are using a lift, the tricky part is already solved. The hardest part of the install for me was snaking the mid-pipe over the axle with the car on jack stands. It was pretty aggravating. Cutting the y-pipe was not fun with a hack saw either, but I Tom Sawyered my 17yr old son into doing it. Oh yeah, if your using the black cutout trim pieces, those were a real PITA also. There's just not much room between the fascia and metal bumper in that area. Doable, but not fun.
imnutz66
05-10-2008, 09:56 PM
Yea, the cutout trim screws are a real pita, not much room to get the nuts on and I had to go back later and cut the top screws off cause they vibrated against the bumper cross brace. I used a chain cutter to cut the Y, but a sawzall would work fine. Use the stepped band clamps on the Y that come boxed with the X, and yes, you will have two extras. Enjoy the sound
my first mustang
05-10-2008, 11:01 PM
If you are using a lift you should have no problem installing the kit. Follow the instructions carefully(especially measuring and cutting the Y pipe)and the kit goes together nicely. Use a sawzall or even a hack saw, its only exhaust pipe and cuts easily. Take your time on the bumper cutouts, theyARE a pain. You will love the way the kitlook and sound! Good Luck!
05_mustang
05-11-2008, 10:38 AM
A sawzall type saw works the best.
It took me & my son-in-law only 1-1/2 hours to do.
It was on jack stands, and getting the old pipe out was the hardest part.
And yes you will have 2 extra clamps.
Some report that you are short 2 bolts in the box for the muffler hangers but if you pull off the extra hanger on the passenger side that is not being used anymore you will have the other two.
themac5150
05-11-2008, 11:20 AM
ORIGINAL: 05_mustang
A sawzall type saw works the best.
It took me & my son-in-law only 1-1/2 hours to do.
It was on jack stands, and getting the old pipe out was the hardest part.
And yes you will have 2 extra clamps.
Some report that you are short 2 bolts in the box for the muffler hangers but if you pull off the extra hanger on the passenger side that is not being used anymore you will have the other two.
+1 on both statements. I only received 2 bolts, the instructions don't mention reusing the old, but it was obvious, as I still had them on hand. Some have discarded the extras when installing axlebacks. The instructions also don't mention using the "stepped" clamps. I didn't at first and the "Y" to "X" joints were loose and leaking (my stepped clamps arrived spilled out in the box and I was missing a bolt for those clamps, had to go buy one). I went back laterand installed the "stepped" clamps and it works like a champ. You will have 2 extra (actually three counting the one that came off the stock set up) of the big OEM style clamps. The rear pipes are a butt joint (OEM clamps), the front where the "X" installs at the cut "Y", the "X" pipe slips over the "Y" (stepped clamps). Make sure you cut the "Y" longer,behind the opening of the "X" like the instructions direct. And torque everything to specs.
MadMoose
05-11-2008, 05:26 PM
Thanks for all the tips guys. Glad I saved the bolts when i swapped out the muffler.
ODDYSEY
05-12-2008, 10:03 AM
I didn't have a problem with the flanges or bumper cut-outs. They aren't easy, but if you just take your time and have the right tools, they go in pretty smooth.
Or you could just get a GT take-off bumper ;)
MadMoose
05-14-2008, 04:09 PM
just picked up the box from the dealership, dayum those tips are huge!
I'm gonna cut that bumper today and do the install tommorow, the template for cutting the bumper wasnt in the box, so i had to print it from online. kind of pissed me off that it wasnt included
my first mustang
05-14-2008, 07:28 PM
I didn't get the templates either. Minor inconvenience. Just make sure you copy them at 100%. Have fun!
jwilhelm
05-14-2008, 07:46 PM
Minor point on the bumper cutout templates. After you trimthe template as instructed by the directions on the template. Turn it over and place it over the cutout on the passenger's side of the rear bumper to see if it matches the outline of the existing cutout for the stock muffler. This test will show you whether or not the printed template is the correct size for measuring and cutting out the diver's side hole.
imnutz66
05-14-2008, 07:51 PM
You have to cut both sides - the template size will be larger than the existing cutout
MadMoose
05-15-2008, 02:12 PM
Got the cutouts done yesterday, looks really nice imo. Ended up not being able to use the lift so they're being installed by a local muffler shop as we speak. If all goes well I'll have pictures as well as first impressions by the end of the day.
FyouGitive
05-16-2008, 12:54 AM
Mine went on yesterday. I'm not sure I like the sound. I suppose I'll get used to it, or convince myself it's really great. Sounds a little ricey in the mid-range at full throttle. And the driver's head is in a major BOOOM node at low-load 1,000 rpm (convertible). Pretty crisp, elsewhere.
And the template worked OK. I don't like the screwed-to-the-bumper look, so the CS bumper may be in the future.
My kit had two expensive-looking clamps and six bolts left over. Hmmm.
MadMoose
05-16-2008, 01:05 AM
ORIGINAL: FyouGitive
Mine went on yesterday. I'm not sure I like the sound. I suppose I'll get used to it, or convince myself it's really great. Sounds a little ricey in the mid-range at full throttle. And the driver's head is in a major BOOOM node at low-load 1,000 rpm (convertible). Pretty crisp, elsewhere.
And the template worked OK. I don't like the screwed-to-the-bumper look, so the CS bumper may be in the future.
My kit had two expensive-looking clamps and six bolts left over. Hmmm.
Sorry to hear that, keep in mind they will change a lot over the next 500-1000 miles as they break in. That said my impressions are pretty much the opposite. It's a whoooole lot quieter than the aeroturbine was on the inside, and deeper throughout the RPM ranges. and no drone at all :D. I also love the look of the bumper inserts that came with the kit, fits my grey and black theme well, not to mention those 4" tips look awesome.
Another thing I noticed is I can hear my intake now, kind of a sucking/quiet whine. I love it.
as for performance I don't really feel a difference between the aero turbine and duals, my friend that rode with me thinks it feels a little stronger topend, but I dont know.
I had to head straight to work from the muffler shop so I didn't get a chance to take pictures before it got dark, so I'll take some in the morning. Sorry if i'm not being entirely coherent, i'm just really excited right now. Think i'll go drive it some more!
FyouGitive
05-16-2008, 01:20 AM
I'm pretty excited, too. Haven't had a black Ford with duals since, uh, 1956 ...
I painted the mufflers and tips black with caliper paint before the installation, just like the single GT takeoff they replaced.
Normally I would have blasted someone for painting such beautiful chrome tips, but since your car is blacked out it works.
And the "ricey" sound will go away after they start to break in.They are definitely higher pitched after installation, but I am really sure you will love them the more they break in. Let us know.
MadMoose
05-16-2008, 05:52 PM
bump for pics
Tubra
05-16-2008, 06:02 PM
ORIGINAL: ODDYSEY
Normally I would have blasted someone for painting such beautiful chrome tips, but since your car is blacked out it works.
And the "ricey" sound will go away after they start to break in.They are definitely higher pitched after installation, but I am really sure you will love them the more they break in. Let us know.
Im on 6000+ miles on mine and they sound deep. I love em'
FyouGitive
05-16-2008, 06:47 PM
ORIGINAL: ODDYSEY
Normally I would have blasted someone for painting such beautiful chrome tips, but since your car is blacked out it works.
And the "ricey" sound will go away after they start to break in.They are definitely higher pitched after installation, but I am really sure you will love them the more they break in. Let us know.
Thank you for the slack and the encouragement.
Let me be clear about this: I do now like the sound (another 20 around-town miles anda few freeway breezes, where all was calm and undisturbing), but there are some parts of it that seem to be more noise than sound. I sense a buzz at 1500 rpm, thin, but annoying. Yet another boooom period around 1800 rpm, which unfortunately is the speed the transmission chooses on light throttle at around-town speeds. Another thing to clear up: my audio equipment has been in use for molto decades, and I'm missing most information from 3800 Hz up, unless it's quite loud. If I can hear it faintly, it must be remarkable for someone with less deteriorated hearing.
While I was painting, I looked up the tailpipe (save the proctology jokes) and could see very clearly the front cap of the muffler; I suppose it looks the same from the other end. No wonder there isn't much sound-dampening going on. My "buzz" might be the sound of valves closing.
As for the black: I debated about the chrome tips; the bodies were a foregone conclusion, since I just don't want the plumbing to be so dramatically displayed in public. You know there are polished caps available for the backs of the mufflers? Some people!
Paint just doesn't stay on chrome very well unless it's roughed it up with 320-grit or so, and I wasn't about to do that, so this stuff would peel off pretty handily with some good lacquer thinner or paint remover. I do like reversible modifications.