While we were doing the install of the suspension upgrades one of the fellows asked if I was concerned about oil starvation from the high G forces the car would now be capable of reaching during cornering.
I've done a search of the forums and can't find anything related to this so was wondering if this is a problem.
Thanks.
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White 08 GT Roush S/C 445 HP/KDW2 285/40/18 tires/18 x 9.5 wheels Steeda Ultralites/ Steeda Competition springs/D Specs/LCA/Adj UCA & Mnt/AdjPHB/PHB brc/Upper strut mnts/GT500 Brake Kit/GT500 Front LCA/X5 Ball Jnt/Bmp Str + more
I've heard pros and cons about the stock oil pan and it's performance. Bottom line is, there's room for improvement. There are a few pans out there for the 4.6, but they're pretty much "generic" performance pans, if you will, with a little more capacity and some improved baffling, etc. Right now I'm in the process of developing a pan specifically designed for the S197 that will incorporate as much of the best wet sump tech. that can be used within the confines of the stock chassis. The fact that the engine is a Y block design limits things a little, as well, but the pan will have the right baffling, trap doors, and sump design (windage protection) to maintain good oil pressure and also free up some HP. I should have the prototype ready in a couple weeks for some testing, and if all's well, it should be available soon after that.
no problems here after 2 years of tracking with 2 drivers.
an accusump isn't a bad idea since it can be removed in a hurry. a big Canton oil pan isn't what you want a dealer tech staring at when you hurt the motor and take it in for warranty work.
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06' GT - NASA SoCal #82 TTB
Thanks to Wild Pony Motorsports, Ross Murray, and KW Suspension
3rd place (x2) - California Speedway 3/08 1st place - Buttonwillow Raceway 4/08
Yes, that's definatly a problem. Stock pans are just that, a pan. They don't do much of anything to retain oil around the pick up.
Although not a mod motor, I use a fully baffled pan and an Accusump.
Not true--the stock pan does have baffling around the pickup. 2 years on the track with mine and no problems. My oil pressure gauge is right in my face and I've never seen it drop during cornering.
Right now I'm in the process of developing a pan specifically designed for the S197 that will incorporate as much of the best wet sump tech. that can be used within the confines of the stock chassis. The fact that the engine is a Y block design limits things a little, as well, but the pan will have the right baffling, trap doors, and sump design (windage protection) to maintain good oil pressure and also free up some HP. I should have the prototype ready in a couple weeks for some testing, and if all's well, it should be available soon after that.
At some point the problem isn't the pan or its baffling but getting the oil to drain back down into it in the first place. At a little under 1.0 lateral g sustained, most of the oil up top will tend to pile up on the outboard side of the engine where it will have little incentive to return to the sump until you get into corner exit (and the resultant "g" loading is directed more downward). Is there a pan capacity increase part of this or is an Accusump going to be part of it?
On the last V8 I built I paid a good bit of attention to removing casting flash, deburring, and radiusing every oil drainback hole I could find in the block and heads.
Norm
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08 GT Premium Black/Light Graphite, stick, un-FStock weenie-EP 626/V6, Prepared just enough, sometimes
The pan will have proprietary trap doors and baffling along with a capacity increase (YTBD). The majority of the oil returning to the pan is coming off the reciprocating assy. If you're inside the block with a die grinder, anything you can do to promote oil returning to the pan is always worth the while. Both the two valve and three valve heads have generous return holes along the outside edge of the head, not at the front or rear, so with the head sitting at a 45* angle, and the return holes on the outside, you'd have to achieve min. 1G for the oil to be "suspended", but there's really no where for it to be trapped. In any other condition, gravity should prevail. Also, there's really very little oil being thrown around in the top end, and no lifter valley for oil to be trapped in, as in a push-rod V8. The small amount of oil on the inside head (during cornering) shouldn't in any way compromise the oil system, even when not returning to the pan for a short time. (Even the longest sustained high G turn will only be a matter of seconds) Some oil may be trapped in the upper insides of the block, but I don't see this being an issue, especially with a well designed pan that keeps the oil around the pick-up, and is designed for these side load conditions. Remember, all you need is enough oil in the pan to keep the pick-up covered. (This is where a well designed proprietary sump is key.) Reducing windage, and the parasitic drag and HP loss associated with it is the big challenge here, IMO.
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ORIGINAL: Norm Peterson
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ORIGINAL: steelcomp
Right now I'm in the process of developing a pan specifically designed for the S197 that will incorporate as much of the best wet sump tech. that can be used within the confines of the stock chassis. The fact that the engine is a Y block design limits things a little, as well, but the pan will have the right baffling, trap doors, and sump design (windage protection) to maintain good oil pressure and also free up some HP. I should have the prototype ready in a couple weeks for some testing, and if all's well, it should be available soon after that.
At some point the problem isn't the pan or its baffling but getting the oil to drain back down into it in the first place. At a little under 1.0 lateral g sustained, most of the oil up top will tend to pile up on the outboard side of the engine where it will have little incentive to return to the sump until you get into corner exit (and the resultant "g" loading is directed more downward). Is there a pan capacity increase part of this or is an Accusump going to be part of it?
On the last V8 I built I paid a good bit of attention to removing casting flash, deburring, and radiusing every oil drainback hole I could find in the block and heads.
have you installed an oil temp gauge yet? I can't remember if it is you or SoundGuyDave that put a cooler in.
Yeah, I've had an oil temp gauge for over a year now (sender in the pan). I don't have an oil cooler and at this point I haven't seen the need for one. Even in 95+ degree temps last summer on the track, I never saw oil temps over about 220 degrees.
If I spend money on any cooling related issue, it will be for an upgraded radiator (my temps regularly creep up to 220 degrees by the end of a session).
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Oil Starvation From High Cornering G Forces - 
