I've noticed a couple of posts where people have mentioned "piggy back" style. What are these exactly? I read where someone said they tend to cause oil pump damage. I just installed some BBK pulleys as shown in the image below. Are those piggy back style?
Well, I purchased them for $100 and that's why I bought them. Other than the material and brand, I can't really tell any difference in the BBK and the Steeda if they both are supposed to do the same thing. How common are problems with the piggy back style?
< Message edited by N3TD3V!L -- 5/10/2008 5:52:33 AM >
2004 Competition Orange Mustang GT Cobra R Front Fascia, Sequential Tail Lights, Pypes O/R X pipe, Pypes Violator Cat-back, Hurst Shifter, FRAM Air Hog Drop-In
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piggyback means it bolts up to the original crank pully and utilizes the stock harmonic balancer. Steeda UDPs have a built in balancer so you can replace the entire stock crack pully/balancer. Adding the piggyback pully causes more strain on the front of the crank shaft and therfor can cause other problems.
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Spray a 300 shot into a 2v and the only thing you’re going to do is spray your short block all over the track.
piggyback means it bolts up to the original crank pully and utilizes the stock harmonic balancer. Steeda UDPs have a built in balancer so you can replace the entire stock crack pully/balancer. Adding the piggyback pully causes more strain on the front of the crank shaft and therfor can cause other problems.
piggyback means it bolts up to the original crank pully and utilizes the stock harmonic balancer. Steeda UDPs have a built in balancer so you can replace the entire stock crack pully/balancer. Adding the piggyback pully causes more strain on the front of the crank shaft and therfor can cause other problems.
do the steeda pulleys make a difference at all?
yes, they won't cause damage. here's a video on them, and how to install.: http://autohow.tv/node/13 i would never take the risk with piggy-back UDP's, but that's just me!
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1999 GT-ACT Stage 2 Clutch, BBK Cold Air Intake, BBK Strut Tower Brace, Steeda Tri-Ax, Straight Pipes from cats back 1999 Ford Explorer XLT-K&N Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster 50 Series SUV Muffler
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im certainly not advising anyone to do this....just sharing some info about my experience from owning bbk udp's.....which about 2weeks ago, got replaced with SLP's.
but when my pulleys were on, i did not piggyback them with the stock balancer. just pulled the stock crank pulley off (along with the others), and put the bbk pulley on.
at first i just wanted to see what would happen....figured i would start it up, and it would either shake real bad and throw the belt, or thought i would get some weird vibrations thru out the car while idling. so i started her up, and to my suprise there was no wobble, no vibrations, no thrown belts....took it around the block, and it ran fine. not only did it run fine, but rev'd quick as hell and pulled harder than it previously did.
i left it set-up like that for about a year or 12k'ish miles, and no problems.
now here is the thing tho.....right now my car is at the ford dealer for a "ticking" noise. not a BAD ticking noise, like some of these vids you see. this just sounds like an exhaust leak. but it ISNT. almost sounds like its coming from the tranny area when shes up on a lift. it isnt super loud, and does not get louder with rpms (the exhaust drowns out the tick around 2k), although it does get faster with rpms. its just annoying and doesnt sound normal. i first noticed this tick about a month ago. after having an exhaust place check to make sure it wasnt an exhaust leak, i thought well...the pulleys must have finally caused some sort of damage from running them with out the piggy back. about 2 weeks ago i got some SLP pulleyes and put them on, hoping the tick would maybe stop. it didnt. so now the car is at the dealer and im waiting to hear from them.
so at this point i dont know if the pulleys cause what im hearing.....but i know i ran the bbk's non piggy backed DAILY, and she ran like a bat out of hell with the total weight of the pulleys only like 2lbs lol!!
< Message edited by MoKo_04GT -- 5/14/2008 10:27:54 AM >
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I'll say that I would never do UDP's. 8rwhp is not worth the price. Just like shorties aren't worth it either. I'll do LT's when I can get around to it.
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ORIGINAL: sxynerd
I'll say that I would never do UDP's. 8rwhp is not worth the price. Just like shorties aren't worth it either. I'll do LT's when I can get around to it.
Where the hell were you when I bought mine????? I needed someone to talk me out of it. $200 bucks just isn't worth it and i'm to f**king lazy to put the stockers back on. When I do, i'll have some Steeda UDPs for sale.
Haha, I'm always here and am always opinionated. You already have them so I'd just leave them, they can't hurt. If you ever go s/c'd you'll need to take them off so think of them as an diminishing investment down the road that has 50% return. You'll get a $100 bucks for them used. STEEDAs are the best on the market, hands down so, at least you have quality and the most output you can get from UDP's.
damn I just put bbk's on the car now I just ordered the steedas... im stuck with these pos's damn a week late dollar short story.... I was told by bbk that if your a serious racer then get the sfi pulley , but if you only go to the track once in a while ours will give you years of worry free service...
I got my Steeda UDP's used for $80. I figured they would be worth it at that price. I noticed a bit of a difference, but nothing too drastic. I say if you can find a used set that are in good shape, then they are worth it. Otherwise, $200 is too much for the little gain.
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Underdrive Pulleys - 
You already have them so I'd just leave them, they can't hurt. If you ever go s/c'd you'll need to take them off so think of them as an diminishing investment down the road that has 50% return. You'll get a $100 bucks for them used. STEEDAs are the best on the market, hands down so, at least you have quality and the most output you can get from UDP's.
