whats the deal with try-y headers? are they any good? are the restrictive? would you recomend them on a race engine? id like some kind of info because im lookin for new headers. my flowpro's now wont allow my exhaust to mount up because the driver side collector is pointing slightly upward and its atcually hitting the floor board. all the tubes are straight and if you look you can see that the colletcot tube was literally welded on crooked. i gota get the pipes put on this thing becasue my mom and the neighbors are getting mad becasue its so loud. also i looked at patriot ceramic coated headers on jegs. they go for around 300 bucks, but also say will not fit 64-70 with manual floor. my car was orig a 200 inline with a manual 3 speed. does this mean they wont fit? thanks
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67 mustang coupe. Worked 289, built c4 trans, and 8" rear with auburn posi 3:55's outback. I Still have alot of work to go on my resto but its alive and kickin'.
Horsepower TV on Powerblock did a dyno run with a 302 I think. THe Tri-y's had 8 or 9 hp gain with 10-11 tq (guesstimate) but it beat the longtubes they ran next with only 3-4 hp and 7-8 tq. They're legit from everything I've heard.
EDIT: I have them with flows and they sound great and its a lot more torquey
< Message edited by rustycoupe -- 5/9/2008 7:00:52 PM >
I'd recommend them on a stock or mild engine. Tri-y's work great at lower rpm's where long-tube headers don't. However, they're not ideal for an engine that spends a lot of time above 4k or so. That's where long tube headers are ideal.
As far as compatibility with a m/t car, it has to do with the clutch z-bar clearance. Some headers won't clear the z-bar, but you don't have one, so don't worry about it:)
< Message edited by Starfury -- 5/9/2008 7:13:12 PM >
these are the ones i have in mind right now. they also have them in raw finish for 151.99 im assuming the raw ones would rust out like crazy right?
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67 mustang coupe. Worked 289, built c4 trans, and 8" rear with auburn posi 3:55's outback. I Still have alot of work to go on my resto but its alive and kickin'.
those are the ones i plan on getting to replace my tri y's when i get my heads in. i'm getting bare ones but i'm having em dipped then wrapped so.. but i also noticed it says "SAP port shape" what in the hell is that?
< Message edited by SalikDDD -- 5/9/2008 9:54:29 PM >
you mention fit. Best advise is go with a reputable company like doug thorley or dougs headers. I have never, ever, had a problem with fit and interference issues, or gasket leaks. In fact, I was just researching a rack&pinion, and thorley was the only company that fit with no modifications. inexpensive headers will always give you problems, that's why they're inexpensive.
im gona take a shot in the dark in saying that it means something about square shaped ports. im only saying this becasue i did see ones that said oval and round shaped port, also. i could be wrong, but now i wish i knew. does anyone know what that means.
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67 mustang coupe. Worked 289, built c4 trans, and 8" rear with auburn posi 3:55's outback. I Still have alot of work to go on my resto but its alive and kickin'.
Looking for a Header? Tri-Ys The book on Tri-Y headers is that they pump up the midrange torque over a set of four-into-one headers, which is exactly what we saw with this test. In the midrange between 3,600 and 5,200 rpm, the torque jumped as much as 27 lb-ft, but this comes at a price. Note that the average torque gain throughout the entire curve is only a scant 2.6 lb-ft. This is because at the lower engine speeds like 3,000 rpm, the Tri-Ys lost 32 lb-ft compared to the four-into-one header. Would these Tri-Ys be quicker in a mild street car? When we plugged the two power curves into the Racing Systems Analysis Quarter Pro simulation, the two curves produced very similar results. The four-tube-header version ran a scant 0.08-second and 1.1-mph quicker through the quarter than the Tri-Ys. Much of the difference was due to the slower 60-foot time exhibited by the Tri-Ys because of the torque loss below 3,400 rpm. The simulation used a 2,600-stall converter. It's possible that with a little carburetor work, that torque loss could be overcome. The Tri-Ys might have over-scavenged the engine at low rpm, requiring more fuel, and that could make these two headers more even in the car. But there appears to be no significant gain in performance with the Tri-Ys. It's mostly about where you want the torque gain to occur within the engine's power curve. Test 3: Four-into-one 1 5/8-inch headers on a mild 355ci small-block with an Edelbrock RPM dual-plane intake. Test 4: Same as above, except we added a set of Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers.
Doug is Doug Thorley, He had a nasty divorce many years back and his wife owns Doug Thorley headers, he had owned Dougs Headers for many years and sold to pertronix. His Headers are some of the best made.
You have to look at apples to apples, not oranges. Most 289-302 try y-s are 1 1/2 primaries which are based on the shelby design, there are 1 5/8 and 1 3/4 try y-s available. If you compare a set of 1 5/8 try's to long tubes the difference is not the usuall.
The long tubes make more low end, the try-y's make more mid and top. I have a set of dougs 1 3/4 3/4 length try y-s on my 408 stroker in my 67 and I can tell you they make more power all the way around than my 1 5/8 long tubes did and have a unique sound as well..
Try-y's are a proven design, shelby used them to bump up the low/mid in racing on a 289, it really depends on the use but if you go a bit bigger on the primaries the rpm range changes compared to long tubes.
so if i go with the tri-y's in 1 1/2 primes and 1 3/4 secondaries with a 2.5 collector, will it hurt the overall performance of my car? im running a full 3 inch x pipe exhaust with flowmaster 50's dumped before the rear. will it hurt the car goin from 2.5 - 3? i dont know so thats why im askin, lol. i wana make sure im making the right move. my car is making somewhere around 400 hp (estimated, but underestimated i think). i dont have the big bucks to put out for the $$$ ones, so like i said $300 is where im at. i know not to go with chrome plated ones, but what about nickel plated chrome? is it the same? ceramic are what i want, mustangs unlimited has em for $260, and they have nickel's for $184. will tri-y headers work at upwards of 8K rpm's? i really like the way they look and i personally think they will look sick in my engine bay along with all my other polished alum dressup. i just wana make sure im making the right choice :)
thanks for all your help. hopefully by tonight or tomorow ill have placed my order.
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67 mustang coupe. Worked 289, built c4 trans, and 8" rear with auburn posi 3:55's outback. I Still have alot of work to go on my resto but its alive and kickin'.
I bought a set of Patriot Tri-Y headers from John's Mustangs in Houston. First of all, the fit was not so great. Like a fool, I put them on the engine while it was still on the engine stand, but only used two bolts to hold them in place so I could take a picture. Then, while the motor was hanging on the hoist, 3/4 of the way in the car, I tried to bolt them up and discovered all of the holes didn't line up. I had to modify a hole or two on one header to get all the bolts in.
Second, they cause problems for power steering units. You have to buy a drop down piece that bolts to the frame. Then you have to figure out how to reroute your hoses so they won't touch the header. If you don't have Power steering, then this is a non-issue.
i ran into the same problem with my flowtech's. they were a SOB to line up. it literally took me an hour on each side. i put my air hammer to use becasue i had to dent the hell out of a few primaries to allow the supplied bolts to fit. if i didnt have the problem of the drivers side collector jammed against the floor, this post wouldnt be here. lol. its the reason im looking for a new set, so i can finally bolt my exhaust up. im still undecided and havent placed my order. im gona stop by the speed shop tomrrow and see what they have and recomend. thanks again. ill keep ya posted on what i get. Nick
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67 mustang coupe. Worked 289, built c4 trans, and 8" rear with auburn posi 3:55's outback. I Still have alot of work to go on my resto but its alive and kickin'.