I am replacing OEM rear shocks with Tokico d-specs.
I am removing the OEM shocks. I have unbolted the lower shock bolt. I opened the trunk hatch pulled the cover back and hand ratcheted the upper shock nut but it will not loosen. As I torque the upper nut, the whole assembly rotates so the nut is not looesening but just twisting.
I rebolted the bottom of the shocks to see if that would work but it didn't.
I do not have air tools, just hand tools. I don't think the torque of a hand ratchet is doing the trick. Do I need to somehow find a power tool that can apply repeated and high speed torque to the upper nut assembly.
HELP!
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FR Springs, 20's w/ Nitto's, AEM CAI & SCT tune, 4.10's, Steeda Triax, CMDP, UD pulleys, JBA Shorties, Magnaflow exhaust w/ SLP catbacks, Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Rear Sway, Steeda UCA & LCAs, BMR PH Bar, dyno'd at 308 rwhp/318 rwtq
I DID rebolt the Shock's bottom nut/bolt, then retried to loosen the top nut. NO luck. So attempting one (top v. bottom) before the other is unavailing.
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FR Springs, 20's w/ Nitto's, AEM CAI & SCT tune, 4.10's, Steeda Triax, CMDP, UD pulleys, JBA Shorties, Magnaflow exhaust w/ SLP catbacks, Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Rear Sway, Steeda UCA & LCAs, BMR PH Bar, dyno'd at 308 rwhp/318 rwtq
The very top of the shock bolt should be like 8 or 10 mm (I think, it might be even smaller). If you hold the top of the bolt with the 8 or 10 mm wrench you can loosen the mounting bolt from the rubber mounts. You do not need another person, just 2 hands.
< Message edited by jayel579 -- 5/9/2008 11:34:07 AM >
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Speed Kills......But so does everything else only slower
Sometimes you can get a small wrench on the shock stud above the nut to hold it still and use a box or open end wrench to turn the nut.
A cordless impact tool might work if there's room to get it in there. (This is a tremendously useful tool to have, with a spare battery pack, BTW)
A nut-buster can be used to split the nut.
You can also put a deepwell socket over the nut and stud and work it back and forth with an extension until the shaft breaks. I am assuming that the old shock is trash.
Norm
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08 GT Premium Black/Light Graphite, stick, un-FStock weenie-EP 626/V6, Prepared just enough, sometimes
Sometimes you can get a small wrench on the shock stud above the nut to hold it still and use a box or open end wrench to turn the nut.
A cordless impact tool might work if there's room to get it in there. (This is a tremendously useful tool to have, with a spare battery pack, BTW)
A nut-buster can be used to split the nut.
You can also put a deepwell socket over the nut and stud and work it back and forth with an extension until the shaft breaks. I am assuming that the old shock is trash.
Norm
Thanks Norm,
I ended up having to take an adjustable open ended wrench to clamp on the top of the rod while I used a fixed 18mm wrench to torque the nut loose. Finally worked.
Thanks.
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FR Springs, 20's w/ Nitto's, AEM CAI & SCT tune, 4.10's, Steeda Triax, CMDP, UD pulleys, JBA Shorties, Magnaflow exhaust w/ SLP catbacks, Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Rear Sway, Steeda UCA & LCAs, BMR PH Bar, dyno'd at 308 rwhp/318 rwtq
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HELP: REAR SHOCKS WON'T COME OUT! - 
