I am the 2nd owner. 2006 GT w/6500 miles. Bought it at 4500 miles.
Ever since I have owned it (did this when I bought it) the car has made an obnoxious ticking noise from the rear passenger side of the car. Like metal tapping against glass. It happens going over even the smallest bump. I can hear it if my windows are up and the radio is off. Yes I am picky. The car is practically new - it's not a 10 year old hyundai w/200K on it. I expect it to be tight and not make noises like this.
The dealer had the car in their body shop once for nearly a week. Seemed fixed. Three weeks later the noise is back. So I take it in again and they keep it for another 3 days. Ripped the entire back of the car apart practically down to the metal. They have given up and say that they cannot fix the problem and that it is probably something metallurgical. A weld. They aren't sure.
So they want me to bring it in when the Ford rep comes out from Seattle in a couple months. My question is what will the likely outcome of this visit be? Who are these representatives that come out to the dealers and what is their purpose? Am I screwed?
< Message edited by Riptide -- 5/8/2008 1:45:55 PM >
well the ford reps are engineers. White coats and everything usually. they are your best bet at fixing it but still no promises. Some things are hard to track down especially if the vehicle has to be driven to re-create the noise.
well the ford reps are engineers. White coats and everything usually. they are your best bet at fixing it but still no promises. Some things are hard to track down especially if the vehicle has to be driven to re-create the noise.
They'll just pretend they can't find the problem, like they do with all their cars. Some problems are very hard to track down especially when ford doesn't want to fix it.
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Joined: 9/16/2006 From: Fishers, IN Status: online
i cant see them buying the car back over a sqeak. it would have to be a mechanical problem that is going to affect the car in some way like safety or performance.
i cant see them buying the car back over a sqeak. it would have to be a mechanical problem that is going to affect the car in some way like safety or performance.
I agree.
Let me have the car for a week, i'll find that rattle!
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
The dealer has been very gracious and dilligent while trying to fix this. Their body ship has tore the car apart twice now and had it for over 8 business days between the two visits. I am very happy with Archie Cochrane's efforts.
This is the mother of all rattles IMO if their body shop can't figure it out after ripping the car apart like that. It most likely is some sort of loose or broken weld inside the body/chassis of the car. Does it constitute a safety issue? I doubt it. The car handles fine, tracks the road fine, etc..
I doubt they will just buy the car back from me. It's under warranty but I am the 2nd owner. So if a buyback is out of the question, what do you guys think they will try to do here? Rape me on a trade-in? Tell me to suck it up? I like the car I just wish it didn't do this. It was probably this way right off the assembly line and the first owner just didn't care.
I would try to track it down myself. First thing I'd do is isolate anything that can rattle in the back of the car. That means removing the jack, spare and carpeted cover piece. Next i'd move on to the rear speaker deck, that's a good source for rattles.
Did they systematically tear apart the rear of the car? Including the interior? I'm sure a bad weld is possible, but there are so many other things it could be.
Next remove the rear seat backs, those suckers can make a lot of noise.
Is your exhaust stock? Everything else stock?
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
Duh! You have boomtubes. I'd check those first. The exhaust moves when warm and could easily be contacting something. Did you install the exhaust or was it allready on the car?
Can you record this ticking? I simply must hear this ticking.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
Have the wife drive it for a while she will get to the bottom of it. But seriously I would drive around with the back seat folded for a while and see if it makes it easier to find.
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Performance White 06 GT premium Black leather Shaker 1000.
i remeber a while back someone had a similar rattely type noise and it turned out to be his rear seat belt latch vibrating against the plastic side panel. simply latched the seat belt together and the noise was gone. guess yours isnt quite that simple.
First Ford Reps. are NOT engineers. They are just what there title states. (Reps) Normally they are at the dealer to review Warranty issues and Issues with customers on out of warranty problems that the customer feels should be repaired for different circumstances like out of warranty by date but has low miles. They have the authority to issue vouchers or even buy backs. I doubt that Ford would consider offering a Buy Back or anything like that as you purchased the car used. When I worked at the dealer and yes I handled situations like yours. I would ask the Ford Rep to make sure the problem is documented with there signature and even ask for a FREE Extended BUMPER TO BUMPER Warranty. It sounds like the Dealership has made every effort to repair a problem that honestly will never be fixed unless it gets worse. I would ask the Service Manager and the Ford Rep. call the Ford Tech Hotline and see if there are any similar problems with models like yours. I worked on a car once for 4 days then called the Hotline and after that fixed the car in 10 minutes. I ask the Hotline why they didn't release a Bulletin on the problem and they said they were still gathering data. Hope your get your problem solved.
Hey I'm the 2nd owner of a 2006 Black GT as well, got mine with 28,657 miles on it though.
Things that could possibly make that noise, as I've been going through mine trying to take every funky rattle out as well.
Door handles on the outside, both of mine were loose and made noises down the road.
Exhaust hangers, I had one loose on passenger side, made a very distinctive "ting" noise while driving, not always there, but when bumps were hit, you heard it. More of metal on metal though, not metal on glass.
5 year old banging his toy on the back window....easy fix sorta...this one I'm throwing out there because it took me awhile to diagnose this one. Everytime I looked back he was just sitting there smiling, had to use the rear view to catch that one.
Have you checked out the rear suspension? I know alot about Jeeps, not much yet on the Mustangs, unseated spring, shock mount not tight....guessing here.
This one took me over 2 days, but I had a hard piece of plastic in the far passenger air vent, where your ac or heat would come out. It happend to be a small kids toy, that slid around.
Just throwing things out there man. Even the most skilled can miss the obvious and not so obvious.
I used to work in a dealership, had a PITA rattle that turned out to be a piece of MIG welding wire with a glob of steel on it that was left over from when the body got welded. It was just dangling there and if you hit the right bump in the road it would make noise. (probably some welders idea of a joke)! That took a while to find!
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Smoothcruz..........
08 V6 Torch Red Premium PP, IUP, and Leather! " I finally got a pony! "
It's not the door handles. The sound is from the rear of the car behind the front seats. It seems to come from the parcel shelf near the right side. Could be up in the pillar though it's difficult to say.
It's not the exhaust. It was there before the boomtubes. It also sounds like it's interior to the car and not coming from underneath or outside.
With the back seat down you can hear the noise more clearly. We were still unable to pinpoint exactly what surfaces are causing the issue. No matter what we pressed or pushed on it would not go away.
I don't know everything they tried to fix the problem. Having had the car for as long as they did I'm sure they probably pulled it apart as far as they could. Part of the reason I took it to them was because I didn't want to have to deal with pulling that interior apart myself. It's a PITA.
The best description for this ticking sound is what I mentioned in the OP. Like a piece of metal tapping on glass. As far as a recording I'll try this weekend with my fuji digicam. I don't know if it'll show up since it's not a high quality camera but it's worth a shot I guess. It's not an extremely loud noise, just loud enough to hear and get on my nerves.
< Message edited by Riptide -- 5/8/2008 6:27:53 PM >
I also doubt a buy back will occur, I've been through that Lemon Law with my previous Mazdaspeed 6, it was mechanical and very severe. I'd bet the Rep will check records for previous problems just like yours and see if any techs found the problem. That was the process for mine, they brought in a Rep from Japan... end result was he couldn't find the problem and with 8 months in the dealer's shop... I received a Lemon Law buy back.
Does it sound like its coming from the wheel wells? It sounds like the same problem I had. It turned out the bolts holding the rear control arms were loose and the arm would rattle between the bracket when i hit a bump. Sounded like loose nuts in the fender.
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Ford can't fix it - opinions please - 
