If you want to just replace the brakes then that's a good price. Otherwise I suggest getting the Mach1/Bullitt/Cobra brake setup from www.buyfordracing.com.
< Message edited by mysteed -- 5/7/2008 6:55:21 PM >
_____________________________
-Nathan Mysteed Preformance Home of the 1996-2004 V6 M112 supercharger kit
Sponsored by: Super Six Motorsports, VMP Tuning, and Autobadges.com
Posts: 294
Joined: 2/1/2008 From: Lansing, IL Status: offline
Those setups are sweet but not for now...All I need now is a good braking, so the rotors and pads would do it. I might also paint my stock calipers, that might look cool too!
_____________________________
SerbStang
"War cannot be avoided; it can only be postponed to the other's advantage."
Posts: 11287
Joined: 9/19/2005 From: Pearl River, Louisiana Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: mysteed
The drilled, slotted, and drilled and slotted rotors will not help the braking at all. Save your money, and get a set of stock OEM rotors.
Are you entirely sure about that?
Serriously, if you want to change your brakes go stock if you're not looking for anything special, but if you want better brakeing then look into drilled/slotted rotors. You'll have a little bit better stopping power, but as a downside, you will eat through your brake pads quicker. If you want great brakeing then look into the Cobra Conversion kit and sub in drilled/slotted rotors, now if you're really rich and want the best, then you'll want to look into the large Brembo braking system.
The drilled, slotted, and drilled and slotted rotors will not help the braking at all. Save your money, and get a set of stock OEM rotors.
HAHAHA wow man...are you high??
So if they dont help braking then why do mercedes, bmw, saleen, roush, shelby, steeda, infinity, and countless other high performance auto makers insist on using them...along with proven improved ventilation and heat reduction, and up to 60% better stopping on the skid pad than a solid rotor????????
_____________________________
2006 S-281 SC #1244 "So you have enemies? good, that means you stood up for something at some point in your life."
The stock OEM rotors are junk, they warp easy and should be replaced with the pads in my opinion. The rotors listed look pretty good but yeah, it's not going to be a conversion kit or anything. I would just get some decent rotors from Napa or something of that nature. GL
Posts: 2433
Joined: 12/15/2006 From: Lafayette/Gulf of Mexico, LA Status: online
Having EITHER drilled or slotted DOES help in braking, a ton, if you don't think so then you've felt brake fade. Typically brake fade should NEVER occur in street driving, but run a few auto-x courses and you'll feel it, it's terrifying, it's basically having NO BRAKES.
Brake fade is cause by high temps and the gases released by the pads actually building so much pressure that the pads are no longer touching the rotor through braking, the pedal actually pushes back harder than you can push it down.
I have both slotted and drilled, but I did for looks with the 13" Bullitt fronts and 13" Baer rears. The fronts are necessary for me, but the rears are overkill, they look awesome though lol
Posts: 11287
Joined: 9/19/2005 From: Pearl River, Louisiana Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: RyansQuick6
Having EITHER drilled or slotted DOES help in braking, a ton, if you don't think so then you've felt brake fade. Typically brake fade should NEVER occur in street driving, but run a few auto-x courses and you'll feel it, it's terrifying, it's basically having NO BRAKES.
Brake fade is cause by high temps and the gases released by the pads actually building so much pressure that the pads are no longer touching the rotor through braking, the pedal actually pushes back harder than you can push it down.
I have both slotted and drilled, but I did for looks with the 13" Bullitt fronts and 13" Baer rears. The fronts are necessary for me, but the rears are overkill, they look awesome though lol
Yea, I wish I would have went with a full 13" kit instead of the 13/11" kit, however it still looks great, but I would love to feel full 13" stopping power, the stopping power I have already with the 13/11" kit with the drilled/slotted rotors is already quite amazing. I just barely tap the peddal and the damn car quickly stops, stomp on the pedal, and...well, it doesn't take a leap of knowledge to figure out that my wheels will lock up before the tires slow the car down enough and I'll skid out lol.
In short drilled/slotted rotors gives the car a much different feel when braking. When I drive the 00 I almost have to teach myself how to drive again simply because stock brakes suck, big time bad compared to what you could have.
Posts: 2433
Joined: 12/15/2006 From: Lafayette/Gulf of Mexico, LA Status: online
If that was true, even slightly, then why are larger brakes offered on more and more vehicles from the factory? Just because somebody can cut and paste some unfounded research doesn't make it credible.
I doubt the average Cobra/Mach/Bullitt owner needs the cooling advantage of 13" brakes, and even modern brakes produce outgassing. Also everyone on there is touting Hawk pads, which are only good for making brake dust. Factory Ford and Honda pads are some of the best pads on the market for even aggressive auto-x driving. I've had to replace more people's Hawks due to the fact that they glaze over easier than any other pad I've ever seen, but people that only drive on the street will never know any difference anyway and could probably run the cheapest pads on earth and never see any issues.
I am speaking from personal experience when I say that even comparing new stock rotors and pads to a drilled/slotted rotor, with merely FRPP pads is a HUGE difference in high speed braking ability. With a quality brake system your old system will seem about as efficient and using a stick wedged up against a tire to slow it down.
Posts: 2433
Joined: 12/15/2006 From: Lafayette/Gulf of Mexico, LA Status: online
Here's my blast at that rediculous thread on that other site. i put my stuff in bold and underlined and this is based off of what I have done, not some info I found on google search
Let's look at some common rotor "modification" and "performance" upgrades that you may have been exposed to and try to separate the marketing from the engineering. We'll start with size. Bigger isn't always better. Obviously there is a point of overkill as with anything Brake Rotor Size Bigger rotors will make your friends think you are cool. Bigger rotors look sexy. But bigger rotors do not stop the car. What a bigger rotor will do is lower the overall operating temperature of the brakes - which is a GREAT idea IF your temperatures are causing problems with other parts of the braking system. Take, for example, an F500 racecar - a small 800 pound single seat formula car. While the brakes are certainly much smaller than those found on a 3,000 pound GT1 Camaro, that does not necessarily mean that they need to be made larger. In fact, swapping on a GT1 brake package would probably do more harm than good - that's a lot of steel hanging on the wheel that needs to accelerate each time the "go" pedal is pushed.that’s why it called OVERKILL So, the moral of this story is “Bigger is better until your temperatures are under control.” After that point, you are doing more harm than good...unless you really like the look. The weight difference between a stock rotor and well made larger rotor is negligible, not even a factor. Cross-Drilling Cross-drilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads that are 50 to 60 years old, not a whole lot cars barely went fast enough for this to be an issue 50 or 60 years ago. Rotors were first “drilled” because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures - a process known as “gassing out”. Not true, pads still do this These gasses then formed a thin layer between the brake pad face and the rotor, acting as a lubricant and effectively lowering the coefficient of friction. The holes were implemented to give the gasses somewhere to go. It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the same gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Again not true, pads still do this, it’s what happens when a solid heats up, it releases the adhesives and other materials in the pad, crossdrilling also aids in cooling as well
A standard cross-drilled brake rotor. For this reason, the holes have carried over more as a design and lightening feature than a performance feature.false Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures.false In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, the temperatures can actually increase.falseThe holes can actually create stress risers false, allowing the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads - sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop that would only be relevant if pads were soft and could possibly fill the voids, but since they are solid, it is not an issue. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it. Comparing street cars to cars designed to run 200mph+ at all times makes no sense, slotting also helps prevent brake fade, besides, ever look at a Lemans rotor?
A cracked, cross-drilled rotor. Risk versus reward, baby! This was common from “ebay” parts made in china, and usually bought by people who didn’t care about quality or had little knowledge and probably shouldn’t have been changing their own brakes anyway The one glaring exception here is in the rare situation where the rotors are so oversized (look at any performance motorcycle or lighter formula car) that the rotors are drilled like Swiss cheese. They are also thinner than ¼” and stopping something that weighs 1/5 of most lightweight sports cars While the issues of stress risers and brake pad wear are still present, these racing teams are replacing brake pads on a much more frequent basis - sometimes every race weekend. All safety parts get replaced on a true race vehicle after every race Drilling is used to reduce the mass of the rotor in spite of these concerns. (Remember – nothing comes for free. If these teams switched to non-drilled rotors, they would see lower operating temperatures and longer brake pad life - at the expense of higher weight. It's all about trade-offs.) A teams main concern is everyone’s concern, better braking and lower temps, not pad life, a pad that last forever and doesn’t stop doesn’t mean anything Slotting Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time. This, in turn, helps to reduce the “glazing” often found during high-speed use, which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?) These teams are also sometimes running carbon fiber pads designed to last 500mi under extreme conditions such as going from 230mph to 70mph to 0mph in 1/8mi
By comparison, a slotted rotor. Cryogenically Treating Last year a top race team what team and what do they race? bought 4 rotors. Two were bone stock, and two were subjected to a process know as Cryogenically Treating - one of the high-tech buzzwords floating around the paddock. The rotors were run back-to-back on the same track on the same car on the same day with temperatures taken to make sure that they saw the same level of heat. Following the track session, the parts were removed and we had them literally dissected by a materials lab.cryo-treating is still under debate for certain parts, and has not been completely proven either way The testing conducted included surface hardness, grain structure analysis, density, and surface scanning with an electron microscope. Guess what - after seeing the heat of use, the rotors looked identical in every regard. This is not to say that there is not a benefit from treating other parts that see lower temperatures and/or have different material properties. However, treating the rotors on the racecar showed no tangible benefits (note that it didn't seem to hurt anything either). Come to your own conclusions… we have to come to our own conclusion, since no facts are given as to how this testing occurred, it could have been 35* and raining on a course with a terminal speed of 60mph and only ½ mi long for one lap, that’s my conclusion since I was left to come up with my own Conclusion this whole thing is full of crap So, what's the secret recipe? Again, there is no absolute right or wrong answer. Like most modifications, there are those that appear to be well founded and those that “look cool.” If ultimate thermal performance is your goal, look to what the top teams are running (relatively large, slotted rotors). However, if “image” is your thing, break out the drill press – and be prepared to replace your brake pads on a regular basis. most rotors are made with the holes already in them, drilling rotors on a press that weren’t designed for it will cause issues, almost like drilling a bunch of holes in the sheet metal to save weight weakens it yet windows and manufactured opening are reinforced and designed into the structure, just like rotors.
This article is full of half truths and unsubstantiated claims, it sounds like something written by a first semester engineering student, or someone who doesn’t know what it means to cite facts. I’ve put over 35k mi on my drilled & slotted rotors with very little wear to the pads and rotors, I think I can get another 20k out of the pads on the front alone and I have vary little brake dust, and excellent stopping power.
Actually greensteeda (the one you quoted) isn't a first year engineering student. He races his v6 at road racing events and all of that is based on his experiences at the track.
_____________________________
-Nathan Mysteed Preformance Home of the 1996-2004 V6 M112 supercharger kit
Sponsored by: Super Six Motorsports, VMP Tuning, and Autobadges.com
Posts: 2433
Joined: 12/15/2006 From: Lafayette/Gulf of Mexico, LA Status: online
I highly doubt it, all of that is a cut and pasted write-up that some random individual did and he figured how google works to find it.
None of the "data" in that states anything relevant or factual towards mustangs or any other street driven vehicle. It barely, and i mean maybe once, actually states something relevant about vehicles built to ONLY GO 200MPH+ but even the "make your own conclusions" statement means that there is no way to know.
It's a bunch of BS
Not one shred of fact, or evidence supporting the claims.
Printable Version
Is this a good deal? - 
