Im fixing to remove my intake manifold which is slowly leaking oil onto the engine. I have the edelbrock 289 performer intake. I just picked up a felpro gasket kit but im not sure its the same as the edelbrock gaskets.

it has square ports will that work with out issues on that intake? Do i need a gasket with round ports???

thanks

-Gun

There are no round port intake gaskets. Use the Felpro gaskets. They are best.
Don't use the cork end gaskets. Instead use a large bead of RTV across the valley end rails and let it tack up for a few minutes before lowering the manifold into position. This is the trick you need to prevent the oil leak. Make sure all is clean and wiped dry with solvent before applying RTV.
Your manifold requires no special gasket.

I run the Fel Pro 1250's. Require a bit of trimming, but they're good gaskets.

+1 on the 1250's. They seal very well and are worth the extra couple bucks.

Suggestion, cut the head off a couplethree inch bolts and hand screw them in, one in eachhead.Then lower the intake using thesebolts as guides. You know how everyone always sets the intake down, then pushes it back & forth until all the bolt holes line up.Using these guides limits the front/rear movement when you set the intake down, thus creating a real good seal, without creating a siliconemess.

I think I got the 45360s Its a kit with an O ring and the cork end pieces
what does the 1250s come with? is it a kit too or do i need to buy extra stuff?

-Gun

It's still a kit, it's just a different gasket material. Tends to work better on aluminum intakes because of the printed seals on the softer gasket material.

FYI: don't overtorque the intake bolts. 20ft-lbs is about enough, heh. Too much more than that and you can actually cause the intake to distort slightly, whichcauses vacuum leaks. Just be sure to use anti-sieze to get a good torque reading.

okay ill return the one I got and see if I can get the 2050
Is that the part number of the gasket kit?

-Gun

1250, yes.

A couple of weekends ago I fixed some of my oil leaks. And one of my oil leaks was the manifold. It was quite the PIA since I have the weiand. I used the Fel Pros and threw the corks in the trash. I used the Permatex "right stuff" for the first time
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/gasketmake.htm

It same out like cheese wiz and worked great. I put a healthy bead on the prepped area (block). After it formed a skin, I put a bead on the manifold and sat her down onto the engine. Torqed everything down and let it sat overnight. No leaks! I will use that stuff whenever I can because it lays a really nice uniform bead. I also put some sealer on my finger and applied a very light film of sealer around the water ports (both sides of the gasket). Good luck, let us know how it goes.


local://upfiles/21693/0AA5D5BB357647318D82B2A3BC9A6207.jpg

local://upfiles/21693/83D9A9D2972E472881002D194C4AB5F7.jpg

So totally eleminating the cork gaskets and using just the selant is better than applying the sealant to the cork gaskets?

Thanks again

-Gun

Yes. The cork almost never compresses properly and moves around and doesn't seal right. Good silicone does.

yeah cork ftl:D

Okay
I got the 1250 and in the instructions is says to use a cement type sealer to hold the gasket to the intake so you can trim it to fit properly. Is that what you guys did or did you just hold it there and make the cut and install it totally dry?

If you did use a sealant on the gasket what sealant did you recommend....Im gonna use right stuff in place of the cork but what about the main gasket?

-Gun

I never use any cement on the side gaskets. The stud trick works pretty well to keep them lined up.

They were saying to use the cement to hold the gasket in place so you could trim around the ports.

What about the little flat squares that I think are used to block unused passages did you use any of those... are they needed?

-Gun

No, that's the exhaust crossover, and you need it open on a street car. I believe it comes with an open insert for those ports.

As long as you put studs in the corners, the side gaskets aren't really going to go anywhere. Just push down on the gasket with one hand and trim with the other:)

Oh okay I was under the impression that the ports would require trimming (Too Small) or something. If its the outside edge only thats no biggie im sure it will make sense when I pull it apart
Thanks for your guys help

-Gun

No, the 1250's MUST be cemented to the heads with the intake installed hand tight(without the silicone on the end) so that it sticks in the position it will be when installed. Then you remove the intake and trim the gasket around the ports. If you don't do that you're going to have misalignment of the gasket with the ports(it will overhang possibly and obstruct flow) and the gasket may move around. Trust me, I've installed severla of them, and if they're not cemented and trimmed it can become a problem.

what cement do you recomend?

-Gun

Really? I've never had an issue with that. I've never had to trim the intake ports more than 1/16" either, usually at the bottom. The water ports are easy to trim, you don't even really need to put them on the heads to see where you need to trim.

Any typical gasket cement works. I use a super high tack stuff I had laying around. One set I installed without cementing and around the coolant ports and a few of the intake ports the gasket imploded basically, towards the port. Never had a vacuum leak though, they seal really well, but having gasket partially hanging into an intake port is bound to effect performance. That's on AFR heads though with aluminum bolt holes for the intake, so I torque the intake to no more than about 15lb-ft which may be why it moved some. Using cement around all the ports on the head side of the gasket assures that the gasket stays in place when you trim it and also doesn't move around when it's running. It doesn't require much trimming if you use the right one(there's a bigger port version of the same gasket), but on some setups it may hang slightly into the ports which could generate unwanted turbulence if not trimmed. I'd definately cement it though, to avoid having it possibly move around.

alright thanks
-Gun