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Old 05-07-2008, 07:00 AM   #1
Toastintx
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Default degreeing camshaft?

Hey Guys
I'm rebuilding a 302 with new everything. Is it necessary to degree the camshaft? I know it's probably a good idea but just wondering if necessary. This is going to be for street use no hot rodding.
thanks
Johnny
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Old 05-07-2008, 08:43 AM   #2
AV8ForFun
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Default RE: degreeing camshaft?

I've never done it without a degreeing wheel, so I can't explain it in detail, but I've seen it done. It is possible.
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Old 05-07-2008, 09:00 AM   #3
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Default RE: degreeing camshaft?

if its a stock rebuild or just a little cam justput it straight up would be easiest
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Old 05-07-2008, 11:19 AM   #4
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Default RE: degreeing camshaft?

EVERY engine has to be degreed.

so unless you never want it to run properly and have the chance of running valves into pistons then you better degree it.
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Old 05-07-2008, 11:35 AM   #5
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Default RE: degreeing camshaft?

Regardless of application, you should degree the cam. There are many philosophies on this but we checked the intake and exhaust centerlines and split the difference so that the centerline on the exhaust and intake are equal distance from the advertised centerline. All cams, or I should say many cams, are not exactly as they are advertised. You may be plus or minus a few degrees on the events so your centerlines are going to off. If you just check the intake, you are going to sacrifice exhaust performance. This is why you split.

Again, regardless of how many horsepower you are putting in, you need to do this. There is no reason to advance or retard the cam, but you should degree it to get it the the best centerline possible.
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:08 PM   #6
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Default RE: degreeing camshaft?

Quote:
ORIGINAL: urban_cowboy

Regardless of application, you should degree the cam. There are many philosophies on this but we checked the intake and exhaust centerlines and split the difference so that the centerline on the exhaust and intake are equal distance from the advertised centerline. All cams, or I should say many cams, are not exactly as they are advertised. You may be plus or minus a few degrees on the events so your centerlines are going to off. If you just check the intake, you are going to sacrifice exhaust performance. This is why you split.

Again, regardless of how many horsepower you are putting in, you need to do this. There is no reason to advance or retard the cam, but you should degree it to get it the the best centerline possible.
There is no reason to advance or retard the cam, but you should degree it
huh??????????
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Old 05-07-2008, 02:54 PM   #7
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Default RE: degreeing camshaft?

I guess the question I have is how do you adust the cam timing with stock timing gears and chains once you've degreed it ? Is there special pins?
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Old 05-07-2008, 03:03 PM   #8
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Default RE: degreeing camshaft?

mine has 4 deg retard built in so i went straight up , but that's the way i wanted it. prefference.
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Old 05-07-2008, 04:17 PM   #9
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Default RE: degreeing camshaft?

Advancing/retarding shouldn't be necessary on most setups for the street. On race apps though it's helpful to tune for a particular power band. Regardless, you should always degree because the lobes could be ground slightly off from alignment, or the dowl pin hole could be in the wrong spot, or the timing marks could be wrong etc. It's unlikely you'll get a cam/gear that will be off, but you should always check anyway just in case.
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Old 05-07-2008, 05:57 PM   #10
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Default RE: degreeing camshaft?

Most of the time especially in a block that isnt new and cnc machined like a racing block you want to degree your cam on atleast 3 cylinders, I do 1, 6, 4 cylinders. The reason is that because of the heat and wear cycles the block goes thru, your lifter bores may be slightly off line etc causing lifter bind and uneven camshaft readings. Remember your cam shouldnt be off on any of the lobes so more than likely its your block when you see it. As far as adjustment its always worth it to invest in a roller timing chain especially since they can be had for like 80 bucks for a cloyes, comp, ford racing, or crane. Just make sure you can fit a .030 or so feeler gauge between it and the block or else it might grind on the block.
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