Figured i'd make a new post for it instead of taking over someone elses thread.

ORIGINAL: floodzilla
so it is pretty user friendly, cause right now im runnin a stock computer with a custom chip.


Here ya go. This was taken 2 days ago. A friend had me do a 5.0 swap on his '86 & swap to the 87-93 style dash. He bought a roots supercharger for it & the msII standalone.
I did all the wiring & tuning, he helped out with the engine swap

This was after I made the adaptor. He wanted to be able to take it off & plug in the stock computer at any time so I got a junk eec from a 4 banger just for the computer case & pins. I gutted the computer case & repinned it using on the ones we needed (came out to about 22 pins) I'll get some pics of that later & I can make a writeup if anyone wants.

This was plugged into my car with just enough to make the car run. I didn't tune it, was just testing.

http://a391.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/65/l_1e13a0903ca25ea3b18284b4672371be.jpg

After installing on his car. I got about a 2 minute datalog to help tune the idle/cruise conditions. He didn't have o2 sensors at the time so the tune was based on map/tps/rpm. The engine wasn't up to operating temp yet. I just got some data to mess with it a little bit before it was ran too long, but you can't really damage the engine while it's under low load/rpm, it can't generate enough heat to do damage.

http://a148.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/117/l_4e837fbbde6ac986561ce6229fc0bf63.jpg

The blue #'s are slightly tuned w/o o2's... That was the only area that I had enough information to tune at. As you can see in the upper left box. The highest rpm was 2397rpm & highest map reading was 53.

It's just enough to drive the car at low load/low rpm (enough to move the car what we need to). He just brought his pipes to me today & I welded a nut to thread the o2's in (he didn't want to wait for ordering the actual bungs). I was kinda hoping to get some in last night, but he said he was too tired. So later today (hopefully)

I'll be tuning it with the narrowband just good enough to drive around & play some. But I told him I wouldn't build the supercharger kit until he got a wideband. (don't want to see a good friend destroy his car) [&:]

None of the stock wiring was touched, i wired it to be a direct plug into the stock engine harness. The last ms setup on a mustang I made, I hacked up the engine harness.

I'll get some more pics tomorrow

They will pretty much tune themselves, you just have to do the little tweaks here & there for more power or better fuel economy, ect....

Works with boost control aswell aswell as things like electric fan triggers, ect...

Hey for $200 it's definitely worth it instead of having to get a chip burned or replace the maf when you want to upgrade injectors.
I wired that car with a maf meter on the '86 harness because he said he wanted mass air then wired the megasquirt & took the maf sensor off. You can use the maf meter with the megasquirt, but it's kinda pointless... it will just restrict air.
No need for a dyno tune either, get a wideband, turn the logger on & make a few passes down the street then tune it ;)

They're pretty easy to get the hang of.

vary nice lil read and good info

ORIGINAL: FoxGT


No need for a dyno tune either, get a wideband, turn the logger on & make a few passes down the street then tune it ;)



I woudnt really say a dyno tune is not needed.

Yes you can get air fuels stable and safe and driveability down, but without
a dyno or good consecutive track runs you will never dial in "max" power or know
if the changes you made gained or loss hp.

A few degrees timing here and there on a boosted engine can take or give a good number of ponies.

ORIGINAL: r.barn
I woudnt really say a dyno tune is not needed.

Yes you can get air fuels stable and safe and driveability down, but without
a dyno or good consecutive track runs you will never dial in "max" power or know
if the changes you made gained or loss hp.

A few degrees timing here and there on a boosted engine can take or give a good number of ponies.

Good thing about the logging for it estimates hp/tq gains depending on the map, tps, rpm & the amount of time it takes to travel from any given rpm to another. Granted you have to feed it a few things (car weight, triggering throttle position, tire size, transmission gear ration, final ratio, & stall speed (if equipped)) There's also one that adds in the vss for if your vehicle is equipped with one. There are so many more options available that you can put on there to view. based on lots of factors from all of the engine sensors & some require a couple inputs from the car.

But for sh*t's & giggles we may take it to the dyno to see how well it can read gains & losses if he's up for it. It'll give a good chance to see how accurate the hp & tq estimator is on it. (they're not on the screen atm)

& if it means something as simple as going on an empty highway, getting to 3rd & punching it, then pulling over long enough to open the log, make a few adjustments to timing, boost, a/f ratio, then going back out & doing the same thing, I see no reason why you can't have it very very close to max power for your tune limits. Even if the #'s aren't accurate, just basing that off of the time it takes to travel through the rpm & making a graph off of that. It's enough to show gains & losses, then you just go over on the table & you can edit your a/f ratio there, timing advance (or retard).

Not saying you can get as good as a dyno tune, but I see no reason why you cant come within 10hp/tq of what they do when using this thing properly with the ve analysis tables. & judging from the local dyno shop I think you could outdo them judging from watching them a few times.

The analysis/tuning tools for it are quite amazing. You can download it & use the example they include to get an idea of how flexible it is. The ones I use are megatune & megalogviewer.

Anyway here's where it was ran into the old computer connector. After all of the bugs are worked out silicone is going around the pins & wires to make sure they don't connect or get bent so much they break off, after the pin area is siliconed we're reattaching the case, drilling a hole in the back to run the megasquirt cable out of & filling the rest with "great stuff" to make sure the cables won't be moved around all that much. The other computer in there is the A9P.

Not sure where the megasquirt is going to be mounted just yet, somewhere where the db9 (megasquirt to laptop) connector is exposed & can easily be accessed.

As I said, if anyone wants I can make a pinout for all of the megasquirt connections in paint or something.

http://www.mustangforums.com/upfiles/1583/DC766F2C08C8453BA0C3EB31FB6A2E30.jpg

http://www.mustangforums.com/upfiles/1583/4208680470914591B2AA55D33BBA98B3.jpg

http://www.mustangforums.com/upfiles/1583/3BCFE0FC0FA1457388F863623531AA5C.jpg

well if you are able to become a pro with that thing, youll get a better running car tuning it under true load at the track then you ever will on a dyno, just becareful... but once you figure it out - we need a write up to get schooled in this!

yea man, thats awsome, ive been reading up on these things a little and they are great. this should definetly be topped.

So the Megasquirt takes place of the A9P computer ??? Did the connector for the factory harness come with your kit to plug it into the Megasquirt ??? I am wanting to use this similar system on a 351 swap....please more info and pics. THANk YOU A TON.

ORIGINAL: Fobra
well if you are able to become a pro with that thing, youll get a better running car tuning it under true load at the track then you ever will on a dyno, just becareful... but once you figure it out - we need a write up to get schooled in this!

Well like I said.. i'm not claiming this will beat tuning on a dyno, I'm just saying I see no reason why you can't tune it just as good as one if you logged a bit & tuned.
Basically what that translates to is: I think you can tune it just as good as a dyno for free, but i have no proof so I'm not going to claim you can :) I could be wrong though.
You really would have to try it to see what i mean i guess. this thing can be used to power anything... 1 cylinder... 12 cylinder... rotary engine. If you want to convert to coil packs or run gm or mazda injectors from the junkyard, ect... This thing is incredibly flexible...
ORIGINAL: Fox351
So the Megasquirt takes place of the A9P computer ??? Did the connector for the factory harness come with your kit to plug it into the Megasquirt ??? I am wanting to use this similar system on a 351 swap....please more info and pics. THANk YOU A TON.

The connector takes place of the a9p, so you just take a 10mm wrench or socket, undo the a9p, then connect the megasquirt connector in it's place. Viola now running standalone.

The connector did not come with the kit. I built the connector myself.

I got a connector out of a 4 cylinder car from the junkyard, took some tin snips to it (you could use anything that would cut very thin aluminum). You can use different ones... taurus, mustang, ranger, ect... doesn't matter if the computer has a hole in it or not, you're just using the connector.
Then I took out all the pins that weren't necessary & ran only the ones i'd need. (which i believe was like 22 pins? out of the original 60)
I pushed the ones needed back through & soldered them. (you could use some barrel connectors aswell & it would probably keep them from touching eachother alot better.)

This will work the exact same on a 351w as it would the 302, you would just have to set the required fuel a little higher. (they have a calculator on megatune to help get a base #)
ORIGINAL: floodzilla
yea man, thats awsome, ive been reading up on these things a little and they are great. this should definetly be topped.

They are handy & if you build it yourself (which is like throwing legos together as another member on this forum said & i agree) they can be had for a little under $200.

I don't have any diagrams for how to do it as there were none anywere. I used a mustang wiring diagram to figure out where I needed to run all of the wires, So I'll have to make a wiring diagram for everyone else to see.

It should work on all 86-93 cars though since the wires used are the same. I build this one for an '86 engine harness to begin with, then modified the 86 harness to work with the a9p which required swapping a fuel pump signal wire (to let the stock computer know when the fuel pump was on), repinned the thermactor, & pinned in the maf meter. Basically making it into a mass air engine harness. Also I hooked it up to my '89 GT & everything worked properly. Basically what i am getting at with that, all the wires used with the megasquirt did not change pin locations from 86-93. They may have on 94-95 I can look at some diagrams to check if anyone would like me to for their 94-95 cars.

It's pretty well a plug in & go setup as of right now & we've swapped the computers 5 times to move it around quite a bit (had no o2's at the time for me to reference so I didn't want him trying to move the car without). & it just requires the 10mm socket & about 1 minute.

I should have some time later tonight or tomorrow. I'll draw up a diagram for everyone if they want to do it & post it on here for everyone.

thatd be great man, thanks. your saying this could work on any engine, even imports?

ORIGINAL: floodzilla
thatd be great man, thanks. your saying this could work on any engine, even imports?

lol even imports... of course the diagram i post won't be the same to work with them & you'll have to come up with one for that [8D]
Will work on pretty much any car... If you had multiple mustangs you could have a connector in each car & then just swap the megasquirt & load the tune for that car. I have 4 tunes saved on my laptop. One for a convertable a while back, one for my car, one for the one this is going on now, one from a truck a few months ago, & one from an sn95 5.0.

Like i said, will work on any engine size (unless you have something like a 20 cylinder...) The 5.0 requires a megasquirt board modification for the tfi. If you buy the assembled one diyautotune will do it for you for free. I modified the first one i did myself. If you don't it will eat coils pretty quick. I think i used a resistor & a wire to jump between two pins. The way it was setup was to run with coil packs.

Ok guys... I got a diagram up. Quality isn't the greatest. I got one saved as .bmp here
http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/198/megasquirtwiringyz0.png

but since most people are on dial up I figured I'd compress it a little bit to make it more dial up friendly

The wires are color matched assuming you get the db37 pigtail to go along with the megasquirt (which is probably a good idea). If you don't buy the pigtail with here you'll need this to show you what goes where:
http://www.diyautotune.com/images/products/msharness12/msharness_pinout.gif

I think you all probably have the first wiring diagram on how to adapt it to the EEC harness now I guess mf.com beat the rest. I searched the web all over before I tried to wire it with zero luck. ;) GL!
(i would have posted the pic but it was huge so I just left it as an attachment)

local://upfiles/1583/8AD9F946E9AF481C85AA128DC2C12BD2.gif

This setup is awsome! i definatly have to do some more hmwk though. doesthis setup you have has ignition control too? cause i saw on youtube for iginition control, you need a special cam puller wheel for the sensor to correctly time ignition.

megasquirt I with msns (megasquirtnspark) you can control ignition aswell. Megasquirt II allows for spark control aswell.

You don't need to modify anything in or on the engine. No cam trigger. It will work with the stock ignition. But the megasquirt doesn't know what the timing is (same with the stock eec, that's why you can take the spout out & get a base timing). With this you have to have a timing light & match the # on the megasquirt to the timing on the balancer. Like if the balancer says 20 atdc & the megasquirt is reading 28 atdc you can either unbolt & move the disty or you can adjust it on the computer. Here is the trigger wizard on the computer:

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/MT_trigwiz.GIF

Notice the "8.00" in the corner. That's how much you need to tell the computer that it's off from the actual timing #.

I personally adjust the disty to match it as close as possible to "0" correction on the megasquirt, then do the fine tuning on the ms.

[sm=redx.gif]lol. but i saw this controlling timingon youtube http://youtube.com/watch?v=D6sIN00x20w , where it uses this trigger wheel with a sensor for cam position timing. sorry for all the questions man, i really want to learn how to use this system almost on anything, cause im sold on seeing what this can do. I was actually thinking of trying to use this with a 2jz supra motor, or even a lancer evo engine. the possiblities are endless!!:eek:sorry.

Stupid picture!

I definitely don't mind the questions. I like to help as much as possible where I can.

I embeded the picture this time so shouldn't be any red x's this time :)

Anyway... picture here. I couldnt go into much detail before, was kinda in a hurry. I can post the other one when I take my camera back over & work on the car again. As said... the 8.00 is how much it's off from tdc.
Basically... you can check it with a light after the install to verify. Say with the stock computer you pull the spout out & set your timing to 12 degrees base then tighten it down & put the spout in... With the megasquirt in you'll have to have adjust the offset by that much so the # would need to say 12.00 in the corner.

So if this picture were of a mustang with a stock computer it would be be at 8 degree's atdc base timing (spout out). Just some info so you don't have to worry about adjusting the timing offset. Time it before switching to megasquirt & adjust accordingly. One less thing to mess with [8D]

http://www.mustangforums.com/upfiles/1583/D93B7F1852554B9D871B5286988AB3C3.jpg

Wideband controller & gauge came today I modified his dash a little bit to house the calibration button, led, & gauge. I'll get some pics of that aswell & I suppose I'll put the roots supercharger kit on a different thread perhaps.
This one could be a little ugly, I'm pushing him to get parts to get the kit done before a car show in 2 weeks so the kit may look like crap until I can get time to clean it up. If he runs out of $ it may take a while longer though :( Running to the junkyard to look for some bigger injectors soon.

As for using the megasquirt. It's very easy to use. Like I said, it takes about 10 minutes of playing with it to get the hang of it. Then it's all kinda of nice :)

thats great man, i think im gonna make the switch. i just may need your help on a couple things.:)but anyways, what kinda injectors you lookin for? cause i have some fairly stock supra injectors. (i think there like 350cc/ 32lbs).

ORIGINAL: floodzilla
thats great man, i think im gonna make the switch. i just may need your help on a couple things.:)but anyways, what kinda injectors you lookin for? cause i have some fairly stock supra injectors. (i think there like 350cc/ 32lbs).

No problem. Just let me know any complications in thread so others can use it if they try the install & find this.
As for the injectors I'll probably take him to the local junkyard to get them. Prices are very low.

oh thats cool. ill probley order one in a week or two

ORIGINAL: floodzilla
oh thats cool. ill probley order one in a week or two

let me know how that goes. tuning for a turbo car is pretty easy with it as the table goes off of map pressure (to tell engine load) & rpm.

The table on an n/a car goes from 20-100% as you can see in the above pic. For a turbo car you'll have to extend it depending on your boost pressure from say 20 - 180% or higher, but it's incredibly simple

you base a/f ratio & ignition advance maps based on engine load (map) & rpm. You can set it to work with tps instead of map, but since you're turbo i wouldn't recommend it.

Let me know if you need any help with figuring it out.

Yea ill probley need your help, thanks alot for all of it so far, i really appreciate it. im gonna try to make it work with the stock harness when i get it.