ok im getting close to tearing down the 232k mile motor. i have a guy who will bore it out for around $180 and do the hone and some other weird thing where they bolt a thing to where the haeds would be for about another 200. im shoping around on prices for the machine work now.as for the rebuild kit i dont wanna spend alot but i dont want cheap crap.im thinking if im going this far why not do a stroker kit if its not alot more.lookn for feedback on this. also the guy said for about another 200 he will fully balance the crank with the flywheel and harmonic and stuff. i have no idea if its a good deal. i will be doing all the assembly. whats a good place to get parts for and what brands of pistons and type of rings are best? and how much can i bore out the motor?and all that and power/torque perdictions
i found this kit online but i think its just crank, rods and pistons?http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/html/Subcategory-57-0.html
http://www.rpmmachine.com/engine-rebuild-kits-ford.shtml

ORIGINAL: 86GT 93LX

ok im getting close to tearing down the 232k mile motor. i have a guy who will bore it out for around $180 and do the hone and some other weird thing where they bolt a thing to where the haeds would be for about another 200. im shoping around on prices for the machine work now.as for the rebuild kit i dont wanna spend alot but i dont want cheap crap.im thinking if im going this far why not do a stroker kit if its not alot more.lookn for feedback on this. also the guy said for about another 200 he will fully balance the crank with the flywheel and harmonic and stuff. i have no idea if its a good deal. i will be doing all the assembly. whats a good place to get parts for and what brands of pistons and type of rings are best? and how much can i bore out the motor?and all that and power/torque perdictions
i found this kit online but i think its just crank, rods and pistons?http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/html/Subcategory-57-0.html
http://www.rpmmachine.com/engine-rebuild-kits-ford.shtml

Try Speedomotive.com or pawinc.com for budget engine packages.

You might also want to check this alternative (http://fordstrokers.com/347-stroker-rotating-kits-c55.html).

cool stuff, i dont want to go to a 347 , i want to do a 331. i have heard a 331 is more reliable.
now how come none of the kits specify how much a motor has been punched out for?you know oversized pistons.
also the machine shop guy has heads off a 91f150 302 are these any good?

also look into AD performance.com... they have blocks, stoker kits, bottom ends, cams...etc for a reasonable price listing.... and they build + ship....

I really hate to be the asshole here... but with your track record lately... you might wanna let someone else build it.

ORIGINAL: 86GT 93LX

cool stuff, i dont want to go to a 347 , i want to do a 331. i have heard a 331 is more reliable.
now how come none of the kits specify how much a motor has been punched out for?you know oversized pistons.
also the machine shop guy has heads off a 91f150 302 are these any good?


Hearsay..... 331 and 347 have the bores done at +.030", and 91f150 302 heads = E7 heads ....SOS, SOS.

if anyone ever tells you that they will sell you the heads "off of something"

kindly decline... the only good heads that are take-off's, are GT-40 heads, which will suck ass on a stroker

ORIGINAL: AdderMk2

I really hate to be the asshole here... but with your track record lately... you might wanna let someone else build it.
i got the wrong flywheel if thats wha u mean. we think my factory one was balanced to the the motor.and its ok, thanks for the warning. ill see how much he will charge tp do it

im not worried about the bore but the rod stuff

ORIGINAL: AdderMk2

if anyone ever tells you that they will sell you the heads "off of something"

kindly decline... the only good heads that are take-off's, are GT-40 heads, which will suck ass on a stroker




Thats very true.. In 2 ways either something is wrong with them, or likeADDERMk2 said--- the GT40's will suck on a stroker....

Like i was told when i wanted something clean cut and fast--- (Do it right, and get it yourself not the cheap easy way from someone else)---- Therefore you'll know what you're getting. It's harsh yeah, honestly you'll spend less money in the end just incase something is wrong with a set of take off heads that may cause some damage.. Pay up front - get what you want- tune it- play...

ORIGINAL: Joel5.0

You might also want to check this alternative (http://fordstrokers.com/347-stroker-rotating-kits-c55.html).


I agree with Joel, fordstrokers.com is greata way to go.

Here is a testament to how great the customer service is:
http://www.mustangforums.com/m_5025958/mpage_2/key_/tm.htm#5028315

well first i have to get mine apart and get everything mic'd and see if its been bored out already cus at 232k it had crosshatching on all cylinders when i had the heads off last year and it seems that its been balanced. if i stay normal i want to re use my crank, cam and original flywheel and pushrods to cut down on cost but im unsure if its a good idea to do this, especial re using the connecting rods, but the builder said i could. so we are looking at prices on stroker kits compared to stock ones. at this point im pretty confused as to what to do.i have a set of heads off a old falcon i might use since they have adjustable rockers, get them cleaned up worked and install roller rockers i geuss. im thinkn of finding a place that specializes in mustangs cus honestly i dont know what to do with my motor. too many damn choices.
so at .30 over whats the cubic inches? and what about .40 cus my motor is probably already punched out? the first is 306 right?
whats up with cast pistons? and this kit?https://secure.pawengineparts.com/shoppingcart/ShowItem.cfm?itemid=51772&catid=164
and i geuss this doesnt come with new pistons? https://secure.pawengineparts.com/shoppingcart/ShowItem.cfm?itemid=41419&catid=659 ? i just want a affordable quality rebuild kit with everything new, maybe pass on the cam and crank to save cash unless this is a really bad idea.
thanks for all the advice from everyone so far. i can use all the input on this i can get.
and im curious with a stroker kit how the motor will run on the stock ecu speed density? and what kinda power to expect. and do i have to upgrade anything for it to run right?

Why are you gonna bother to rebuilding it to stock if you still had the crosshatching. Do you have low oil pressure or compression?

Checks out Brother Performance website. They sell Stroker kits at a good price.

ORIGINAL: ryan_89_mustang

Why are you gonna bother to rebuilding it to stock if you still had the crosshatching. Do you have low oil pressure or compression?
i have a cylinder at 128 and my highest is 148, most of them were at around 130ish

Best and cheap don't belong in the same sentence when you are talking engine parts. You get what you pay for.

If you want a decent budget build with performance you could reuse your crank, and get a set of decent rods for under $200(like basic Scat i-beams) and put a decent affordable piston in like some Probes, use a basic OTS cam and some GT40 heads plus the basic bolt ons. It'll run real well, won't be anything stellar in terms of performance but will make decent power on a tight budget. If your rods are still in good shape you could even reuse the stock rods. It all comes down to how much you have/are willing to spend.

ORIGINAL: 86GT 93LX

cool stuff, i dont want to go to a 347 , i want to do a 331. i have heard a 331 is more reliable.
now how come none of the kits specify how much a motor has been punched out for?you know oversized pistons.
also the machine shop guy has heads off a 91f150 302 are these any good?


:eek:come on now ...get that BS out of your head the only reason to go 331 is if you want to make less hp..my 347 is reliable and very streetable...don't let myths limit your capability;)

think of it like this...331 is the same bore as 347,
the 302 has 3.00 in stroker, 331 has 3.25 stroke, thats said to be not too hard on the block and reliable, a 347 has 3.4 stroke, how much more can that hurt really?
piston ring and the wrist pin issue, i have a 331, the srp pistons have a oil support rail b/c they intersect...

well thats my reason the wrist pin issue. my motors most likely built. after getting my old flywheel resufaced and a t5 with gears put in and all the drama i found out my flywheel is balance to my motor. so im going to geuss my motor is built. its faster than any stock 5.0 i had driven to this point. and my low comp when away with oil, meaning my valves leak.so i think im goint to get new heads and call it done with this car. and move on to a new fox to beat on. this one is my favorite and i really dont wanna drive it all the time, or race it. so i need a track car.but i can get blocks for cheap outa lincolns and the vert needs a new motor, so theres a buildable core there. im just not wanting to mess with this one. im 140psi all the way around after squirting oil in the cylindersORIGINAL: 94StinkinLincoln

think of it like this...331 is the same bore as 347,
the 302 has 3.00 in stroker, 331 has 3.25 stroke, thats said to be not too hard on the block and reliable, a 347 has 3.4 stroke, how much more can that hurt really?
piston ring and the wrist pin issue, i have a 331, the srp pistons have a oil support rail b/c they intersect...

ORIGINAL: 86GT 93LX

well thats my reason the wrist pin issue. my motors most likely built. after getting my old flywheel resufaced and a t5 with gears put in and all the drama i found out my flywheel is balance to my motor. so im going to geuss my motor is built. its faster than any stock 5.0 i had driven to this point. and my low comp when away with oil, meaning my valves leak.so i think im goint to get new heads and call it done with this car. and move on to a new fox to beat on. this one is my favorite and i really dont wanna drive it all the time, or race it. so i need a track car.but i can get blocks for cheap outa lincolns and the vert needs a new motor, so theres a buildable core there. im just not wanting to mess with this one. im 140psi all the way around after squirting oil in the cylindersORIGINAL: 94StinkinLincoln

think of it like this...331 is the same bore as 347,
the 302 has 3.00 in stroker, 331 has 3.25 stroke, thats said to be not too hard on the block and reliable, a 347 has 3.4 stroke, how much more can that hurt really?
piston ring and the wrist pin issue, i have a 331, the srp pistons have a oil support rail b/c they intersect...


The wrist pin intersecting is not an "issue", build it correctly and it will work, and provide years of service w/out any problems besides, if that is an "issue", you could use 5.315" rods and 1.175" compression height pistons and the 3.4" stroke crankshaft...... the pin doesn't intersect the oil ring groove with that alternative.

ORIGINAL: 86GT 93LX

well thats my reason the wrist pin issue. my motors most likely built. after getting my old flywheel resufaced and a t5 with gears put in and all the drama i found out my flywheel is balance to my motor. so im going to geuss my motor is built. its faster than any stock 5.0 i had driven to this point. and my low comp when away with oil, meaning my valves leak.so i think im goint to get new heads and call it done with this car. and move on to a new fox to beat on. this one is my favorite and i really dont wanna drive it all the time, or race it. so i need a track car.but i can get blocks for cheap outa lincolns and the vert needs a new motor, so theres a buildable core there. im just not wanting to mess with this one. im 140psi all the way around after squirting oil in the cylindersORIGINAL: 94StinkinLincoln

think of it like this...331 is the same bore as 347,
the 302 has 3.00 in stroker, 331 has 3.25 stroke, thats said to be not too hard on the block and reliable, a 347 has 3.4 stroke, how much more can that hurt really?
piston ring and the wrist pin issue, i have a 331, the srp pistons have a oil support rail b/c they intersect...



adding oil to the cylinders, and getting better compression... shows that you RINGS are leaking.

+1 what adder said.