I am going to do Quarter skins. Has anyone ever used the LORD fusor or the Duramix adhesive for this purpose. I had a guy tell me it is done all of the time. Whatare your opinions??
Jeff
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Look back at the last few weeks posts. There was a thread about using glue instead of welding. I had never heard of this before and I found it very informative.
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She's not the fastest but damn I look good driving her down the road.
its just as strong as a weld and offers more corrosion resistance
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Then said he unto them, But now, he that hath a purse, let him take it, and likewise his scrip: and he that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one. LUKE 22:36
And they said, Lord, behold, here are two swords. And he said unto them, It is enough. LUKE 22:38
yep... i manage a 21,000 sq foot body shop and there are manufactures that suggest to glue and only weld were nessacery. Just make sure that the glue you use is for metal and get the glue you can work with timewise. We use automix by 3M and the one I would use if it were me is the 8115 panel adheasive.
DO NOT glue the belt line of the skin. only the areas where it wraps into the door jamb, down the back and across the bottom and wheel well. Your body work will not hold up at belt seam due to the expansion and contraction of the two peices of metal.
I'm the one gluing in my quarter patches. Did another today. I am using the Maxim product from Evercoat. I have hammered on these after cure and they held just fine. Here are my observations:
1. Buy a box of surgical gloves from the pharmacy. They fit tight so you can pretty work as you would without gloves but will protect your hands from the bonding. That stuff does not want to come off! You get like 50 gloves to a box so you just peel them off and throw them away. They're cheap. If you have trouble getting the gloves on, use some talc powder.
2. Follow the prep directions. If varies for quarters and doors.
3.Make sure you have everything ready to go when you start. Practice fitting and attaching the panel or patch more than once. Have everything you might need at hand. Once you start the process it's not the time to go looking for something.
4. I used C-clamps and sheet metal screws to secure the patch during set. I actually clamped first (and during the test fits) and then only drilled for the screws when I actually had bonder on the parts and had clamped them. That way I did have to line up screw holes that were pre-drilled. The screws held down sections I could not clamp. I used a cold weld epoxy to fill the screw holes after the pieces set and I removed the screws.
5. The bonder comes in a single caulk-type tube that is divided internally to distribute both parts equally. The Maxim had a long mixing nozzle but for me I could hardly get the stuff out due to the long interweaved mixer. I ended up taking that off and squeezing out what I needed onto some carboard and then mixing it together just like you mix bondo or any epoxy. Of course, I was doing patches so I could use a flat stick to apply it. You may have to lay actual beads for a quarter install. Is there such a thing as a power caulking gun? If so, you may need it.
In response to honeygold. I have seen at home depot a ryobi cordless caulk gun. The glass guys we use at work also use these for the urethane. It looks like you are making some good headway on the patches.
I think if I were doing a door or quarter I would absolutely buy the caulk gun jaw66 talks about. You have to lay a bead for those in addition to spreading it. This stuff is pretty much impossible to get out otherwise. I don't know if the other brands use the long mixing nozzle or not.
Gluing quarter skins
