My tensioner pulley is making all kinds of rattling and metallic clicking noises and I am pretty certain it is dieing. I've never changed one of these before, how do you release the tensioner arm? Is a special tool needed? Once the tensioner arm is loose do you just unbolt the pulley, and are either of these reverse thread?
My tensioner pulley is starting to squeak on me.. Or maybe it's the idler.. I don't know. Either way, one of those is squeaking. Where can a replacement be had? Is it a dealer only part, or is there anyone who makes a higher-quality aftermarket one??
You need a 1/2 inch rachet with a pipe or breaker bar to attach to the tensioner arm in order to release the tension. Push on your rachet and slip the belt off the alternator. Once you remove the belt you can slowly release pressure on your rachet and then just unbolt the tensioner. 3 bolts, 18 foot lbs when reinstalling it.
How do you know the noise is coming from your tensioner? There's really not much there to fail.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
I don't know if you were talking to me or the OP, but mine is a squeaking that goes away as it warms up. I've stuck my head under there SEVERAL times when it was cold and listened. It's definitely coming from the passenger side. Beyond that, I'm guessing it's the tensioner or idler, since the only other supercharged S197 around here locally has also had tensioner issues..
Thanks for the advice on releasing the belt tension. I am 90%+ certain that it is the idler pulley because I used an automotive stethoscope to isolate where the source of the noise was coming from while the engine was running. The noise through the stethoscope was much louder from the tensioner pulley, you could actually hear the metal “grating” within the pulley. The other pulleys where much quieter, though the idler pulley was a little noisy, I’m thinking of replacing it also while I’m at it.
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ORIGINAL: moosestang
You need a 1/2 inch rachet with a pipe or breaker bar to attach to the tensioner arm in order to release the tension. Push on your rachet and slip the belt off the alternator. Once you remove the belt you can slowly release pressure on your rachet and then just unbolt the tensioner. 3 bolts, 18 foot lbs when reinstalling it.
How do you know the noise is coming from your tensioner? There's really not much there to fail.
I changed the tensioner pulley last night, it was a breeze. Thanks for the help guys it made it easy.
WHERE DID YOU GET IT?!?
I don't know if he swapped the stock tensioner pulley or the whole tensioner, but you can actually use a 90mm idler pulley on the tensioner. Whipple has you do this with the 10psi pulley and replace your 90mm idler pulley with the 100mm that comes with the kit. All that does is take up more slack from the belt.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
I'm guessing dealer only. The 100mm idler that comes with the whipple looks just like the stock pulleys. It's probably from another ford.
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ORIGINAL: exx1976
Ok, but where can I get the pulley???? Is it a dealer-only part, or is there an aftermarket one available that's better than the stock one?
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
Mine squeaks until warm up and then it is silent. I read by many (inc modaddict) it is normal and may go away in a few thousand miles. To get rid of it you might want to get an 8 rib belt kit and/or a new tensioner (nice billet aluminum piece) PM me for details! J
Others have just made sure it was torqued down right and it went away....mine you cannot get any tighter!
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ORIGINAL: exx1976
I don't know if you were talking to me or the OP, but mine is a squeaking that goes away as it warms up. I've stuck my head under there SEVERAL times when it was cold and listened. It's definitely coming from the passenger side. Beyond that, I'm guessing it's the tensioner or idler, since the only other supercharged S197 around here locally has also had tensioner issues..
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2006 Mustang GT with Cervinis Kit Whipple H.O S/C 465 RWHP and 440RWTQ
Posts: 1368
Joined: 7/5/2006 From: New Orleans Status: offline
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ORIGINAL: MustangGT0405
If you are going to get a new tensioner I would get the Thumprr, or Adam's Frankentensioner. Last one you will ever buy.
I just ordered the Thump_rrr racing tensioner. As always, I'll post a full review after it is installed. (Thanks myGT500 for getting me in touch with thump.)
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Whipple Crew-10psi-Spec II-BMR LCAs-Granatelli sway bar delete-Spydershaft-M/T ET Street slicks-Hurst-Prothane Mounts-PMP Line locks-Flows
I just ordered the Thump_rrr racing tensioner. As always, I'll post a full review after it is installed. (Thanks myGT500 for getting me in touch with thump.)
Well, how much was it?
If anyone is looking for the 100mm idler pulley that comes with the whipple kit, it's made by dayco and the part number is 89055.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
Posts: 1368
Joined: 7/5/2006 From: New Orleans Status: offline
$350 + $20 shipping. Not bad when you consider that it is the ONLY brand that has yet to be broken by anybody. Group buys seem out of the question. It's a popular product.
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Whipple Crew-10psi-Spec II-BMR LCAs-Granatelli sway bar delete-Spydershaft-M/T ET Street slicks-Hurst-Prothane Mounts-PMP Line locks-Flows
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Tensioner pulley dieing! Have some questions... - 
