I just replaced my whole suspension 2 weekends ago. I definately qualify as a novice, although I had two friends helping me who don't. Took a lot longer than I thought, but that was largely mechanic skills deficiency on my part. I did the front, UCA and LCA's too, and the LCA relocation brackets and the UCA took up most of the time, which won't be a problem for your install. The Panhard rod and Sway bar are easy.
You'll need a 15 and 18 mm socket, an impact wrench helps to speed things up on the removal steps.
Support the rear axle, some people a floor jack under the differential, we used two jack stands on the axle housing. Be careful not to lift the car with the jack under the diff, if you go with that method, just support it's weight.
Jack up the car.
Unbolt and remove the sway bar. You can reinstall this last.
From the inside of the trunk remove the upper shock bolt.
Disconect the lower shock bolt
Replace the shocks.
The panhard rod is pretty simple, just remove and replace. Even I did that one with no help.
Assemble the rear sway bar and replace.
I am by no means an expect, but that is pretty much the short version of it.
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2006 Mustang GT: Engine: C&L Racer CAI Exhaust: FRPP Stingers Suspension: Steeda Front and Rear Sway Bars, Adujustable Suspension System, Comp/Street UCA, LCA relocation brackets, Billet LCAs, Adjustable Panhard Bar and Brace & Bumpsteer kit.
Do you have your own tools like air compressor to work with? If you do shocks and struts you can do on your own, those shouldnt take you more then 2 hours to do. Go to AutoZone and rent a spring compressor for the front struts, rears are even easier. I rear sway bar isn't hard either, PH rod is the only one I do not know about.
I am a little spoiled in that my father was mechanic for over 40 years and I have a tool box full of $60,000 worth of Snap-on to play with. But I am NO expert on working on cars but I guess inherently I can get my way around a car to work on it. If you have your own tools none of those jobs are hard at all.
I found this website. If you need exploded diagrams of anything they are in there, use that as a resource to guide you. Or you can go to a barnes & knoble and pick up a service manual of some sort, Chilton or Haynes are very good, do that. Sam Strano told me to get the ford service tech manual. From what I found it is the best one to have but it is also a lot more money then a Chilton or Haynes. If you are not really going to wrench on your car that much spend the $25 bucks on the Chilton instead.
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Speed Kills......But so does everything else only slower
I just replaced my whole suspension 2 weekends ago. I definately qualify as a novice, although I had two friends helping me who don't. Took a lot longer than I thought, but that was largely mechanic skills deficiency on my part. I did the front, UCA and LCA's too, and the LCA relocation brackets and the UCA took up most of the time, which won't be a problem for your install. The Panhard rod and Sway bar are easy.
You'll need a 15 and 18 mm socket, an impact wrench helps to speed things up on the removal steps.
Support the rear axle, some people a floor jack under the differential, we used two jack stands on the axle housing. Be careful not to lift the car with the jack under the diff, if you go with that method, just support it's weight.
Jack up the car.
Unbolt and remove the sway bar. You can reinstall this last.
From the inside of the trunk remove the upper shock bolt.
Disconect the lower shock bolt
Replace the shocks.
The panhard rod is pretty simple, just remove and replace. Even I did that one with no help.
Assemble the rear sway bar and replace.
I am by no means an expect, but that is pretty much the short version of it.
Word of advice regarding the Panhard and Sway bars. You want to install these and adjust the pan hard (if it's adjustable) with the suspension loaded meaning with the car sitting on the ground. Otherwise the sway bar may be at a weird angle or the panhard may not center your rear suspension once you sit the car down.
I also forgot to mention, make sure you you put the sway bar on the right way. I originally installed it upside down, put the wheels on, tried to roll the car back ... It was horrible. I scored the inside of my rims because the ends of the sway bar were pointed down and were touching it. On a side note, either I am the only person to ever do this, or other people aren't fessing up to making the same mistake. I searched many forums, I am the only dumb a$$
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2006 Mustang GT: Engine: C&L Racer CAI Exhaust: FRPP Stingers Suspension: Steeda Front and Rear Sway Bars, Adujustable Suspension System, Comp/Street UCA, LCA relocation brackets, Billet LCAs, Adjustable Panhard Bar and Brace & Bumpsteer kit.
If you are going with an SC then my suggestion is that poly/poly LCA's and UCA are almost essential to get rid of the wheel hop/axle wind up.
This past weekend we installed the Steeda UCA 555-4109, Steeda LCAs 555-4416 and Steeda weld in LCA Reloccation brackets 555-8119 and the difference is amazing. The car now just puts the power to the ground. Putting in the UCA was an absolute PITA but well worth it.
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White 08 GT Roush S/C 445 HP/KDW2 285/40/18 tires/18 x 9.5 wheels Steeda Ultralites/ Steeda Competition springs/D Specs/LCA/Adj UCA & Mnt/AdjPHB/PHB brc/Upper strut mnts/GT500 Brake Kit/GT500 Front LCA/X5 Ball Jnt/Bmp Str + more
I thought I was supposed to reuse all the hardware. Are there fasteners that are recommended to be used? Don't want to make this project too expensive.
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Brenspeed tuned Stage III Saleen VI s/c, Steeda CAI, 4.10''s, Steeda Triax, JBA Shorties, Magnaflow exhaust w/ SLP catbacks, FR Springs, 20''s w/ Nitto555''s, Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Rear Sway, Steeda UCA & LCAs, BMR PH Bar
This past weekend we installed the Steeda UCA 555-4109, Steeda LCAs 555-4416 and Steeda weld in LCA Reloccation brackets 555-8119 and the difference is amazing.
Sleeper,
Were you able to use the Ford flag bolt on the differential bushing for your UCA? The aftermarket UCA's do not have the stop for the flag bolts. Maybe I didn't use enough MAN, but we just couldn't hold the flag end of the bolt well enough to put 129 ft-lbs on the nylock nut.
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2006 Mustang GT: Engine: C&L Racer CAI Exhaust: FRPP Stingers Suspension: Steeda Front and Rear Sway Bars, Adujustable Suspension System, Comp/Street UCA, LCA relocation brackets, Billet LCAs, Adjustable Panhard Bar and Brace & Bumpsteer kit.
This past weekend we installed the Steeda UCA 555-4109, Steeda LCAs 555-4416 and Steeda weld in LCA Reloccation brackets 555-8119 and the difference is amazing.
Sleeper,
Were you able to use the Ford flag bolt on the differential bushing for your UCA? The aftermarket UCA's do not have the stop for the flag bolts. Maybe I didn't use enough MAN, but we just couldn't hold the flag end of the bolt well enough to put 129 ft-lbs on the nylock nut.
What are the upper/lower control arms good for? What type of application?
My application is DD, soon to be s/c'd w/ 430rhp, occasional trips (3-4x/yr) to both road & 1/4 mi. tracks.
I have someone who will trade me a Steeda UCA (Adjustable Street Upper Control Arm 3rd Link, p/n 555-4105) or Steeda LCA's (Billet Rear Control Arms p/n 555-4405 - not adjustable???) for my BMR Strut Tower Brace.
Is this a good trade?
My Strut tower for either an Adj. UCA or LCAs?
Please advise quick!
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Brenspeed tuned Stage III Saleen VI s/c, Steeda CAI, 4.10''s, Steeda Triax, JBA Shorties, Magnaflow exhaust w/ SLP catbacks, FR Springs, 20''s w/ Nitto555''s, Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Rear Sway, Steeda UCA & LCAs, BMR PH Bar
My vote is yes for either. If you are already lowered, your LCA's are probably sloping the wrong direction (Mounting point on the chassis is lower than the mounting point on the axle) This is bad for handling and also makes the car squat on acceleration. So you will need some LCA relocation brackets.
The weld in kind are nice, but a real PITA. I would have paid someone to put them in for me, had I realized how difficult it is to make sure the rear axle is square before welding. We made many checks with the tape measure and used straps to hold things in place, but we were still off by 0.15 degrees. Howeve, well within the ford spec of 3.0 degrees, but not perfect. For all I know, it might have been off from the factory. But, I was in too much of a hurry and didn't check before removing things.
The UCA has a poly bushing, which is more firm than the stock rubber bushing. That piece should prevent wheel hop, and also allow you to set your pinion angle
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2006 Mustang GT: Engine: C&L Racer CAI Exhaust: FRPP Stingers Suspension: Steeda Front and Rear Sway Bars, Adujustable Suspension System, Comp/Street UCA, LCA relocation brackets, Billet LCAs, Adjustable Panhard Bar and Brace & Bumpsteer kit.
Shouldn't I wait and find/purchase adjustable lower controls arms? I am thinking the adj. UCA is not as necessary for my application.
There are a lot of threads here talking about the Steeda UCA. Do a search for F1Fan's comment.
After installing mine (absolute total PITA to install) I realize all of the effort was worth it as the combination of the UCA 555-4109 and poly/poly LCAs and weld in LCA relocation brackets has eliminated axle hop even with my SC.
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White 08 GT Roush S/C 445 HP/KDW2 285/40/18 tires/18 x 9.5 wheels Steeda Ultralites/ Steeda Competition springs/D Specs/LCA/Adj UCA & Mnt/AdjPHB/PHB brc/Upper strut mnts/GT500 Brake Kit/GT500 Front LCA/X5 Ball Jnt/Bmp Str + more
This past weekend we installed the Steeda UCA 555-4109, Steeda LCAs 555-4416 and Steeda weld in LCA Reloccation brackets 555-8119 and the difference is amazing.
Sleeper,
Were you able to use the Ford flag bolt on the differential bushing for your UCA? The aftermarket UCA's do not have the stop for the flag bolts. Maybe I didn't use enough MAN, but we just couldn't hold the flag end of the bolt well enough to put 129 ft-lbs on the nylock nut.
We did up so many bolts over two days I am not sure but think we got that one to 129 ft lb but it was not easy. We used a new bolt and flag nut and blue loctite.
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White 08 GT Roush S/C 445 HP/KDW2 285/40/18 tires/18 x 9.5 wheels Steeda Ultralites/ Steeda Competition springs/D Specs/LCA/Adj UCA & Mnt/AdjPHB/PHB brc/Upper strut mnts/GT500 Brake Kit/GT500 Front LCA/X5 Ball Jnt/Bmp Str + more
ORIGINAL: crazystylin Shouldn't I wait and find/purchase adjustable lower controls arms? I am thinking the adj. UCA is not as necessary for my application.
There are a lot of threads here talking about the Steeda UCA. Do a search for F1Fan's comment.
After installing mine (absolute total PITA to install) I realize all of the effort was worth it as the combination of the UCA 555-4109 and poly/poly LCAs and weld in LCA relocation brackets has eliminated axle hop even with my SC.
Hi Sleeper_08,
I love a satisfied customer! LOL! Yes a total PITA to install but as you have found an effective piece of fabrication no? Gotta love Steeda's design, engineering and fabrication even if the price initially appears to be a bit higher than the other lesser parts out there.
Cheers!
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2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack
Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!
OK, so I think that I am going to trade my BMR strut tower brace bar and $170 for Steeda LCA's and a Steeda adj. UCA.
However, I am intimidated by hearing all the PITA comments re: installing the UCA. Because I am novice, maybe I will let a pro do that part. But I will at least give it a shot.
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Brenspeed tuned Stage III Saleen VI s/c, Steeda CAI, 4.10''s, Steeda Triax, JBA Shorties, Magnaflow exhaust w/ SLP catbacks, FR Springs, 20''s w/ Nitto555''s, Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Rear Sway, Steeda UCA & LCAs, BMR PH Bar
This past weekend we installed the Steeda UCA 555-4109, Steeda LCAs 555-4416 and Steeda weld in LCA Reloccation brackets 555-8119 and the difference is amazing.
Sleeper,
Were you able to use the Ford flag bolt on the differential bushing for your UCA? The aftermarket UCA's do not have the stop for the flag bolts. Maybe I didn't use enough MAN, but we just couldn't hold the flag end of the bolt well enough to put 129 ft-lbs on the nylock nut.
We did up so many bolts over two days I am not sure but think we got that one to 129 ft lb but it was not easy. We used a new bolt and flag nut and blue loctite.
Sleeper,
I have a new flag bolt and extra nylock nut, next week when I get back under the car to check all the torques and double check the pinion angle and rear axle centering, I'll try to install it and do a better job holding the flag nut.
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2006 Mustang GT: Engine: C&L Racer CAI Exhaust: FRPP Stingers Suspension: Steeda Front and Rear Sway Bars, Adujustable Suspension System, Comp/Street UCA, LCA relocation brackets, Billet LCAs, Adjustable Panhard Bar and Brace & Bumpsteer kit.
PH Bar - OEM removed, new one installed. Easy as apple pie. Sway Bar - OEM removed. Will install new bar last. Very easy. Rear shocks are giving me a hard time as they won't unbolt from the top - when I am torqueing to loosen the whole assembly rotates. So I will try a to use two tools to loosen it.
Up next: 1. Get top bolts to rear shocks off, and install Tokico shocks 2. Remove & Install Steeda LCAs 3. Remove & Install UCA 4. Install Sway 5. adjust PHbar & UCA. 6. Remove front struts, install Tokico fronts. 7. Drive it in the mountains!
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Brenspeed tuned Stage III Saleen VI s/c, Steeda CAI, 4.10''s, Steeda Triax, JBA Shorties, Magnaflow exhaust w/ SLP catbacks, FR Springs, 20''s w/ Nitto555''s, Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Rear Sway, Steeda UCA & LCAs, BMR PH Bar
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Guide My Installation: Tools, Technique, Time? - 
