Guide My Installation: Tools, Technique, Time?

crazystylin · 05-06-2008, 01:07 PM

Hey fellas,

This weekend I am going to be installing (attempting to) rear sway bar, PH Bar and rear shocks (gonna let the pros do the struts).

I haven't found a "how to" for the shocks & sway. Tacobill has one for the PH Bar.

IF you can guide me with any knowledge whatsoever, I would hugely appreciate it.

Also, if you are going to be around this weekend and don't mind a call if I need guidance, PM meyour contact info.

What tools make the installation easiest?
How do I install sway, PH Bar& rear shocks?
How long would it take a novice to complete all three?

I will pay you all $200 for your time in helping me. Uhhh, not.

APPRECIATE THE SUPPORT FELLOW MF'RS

itchy5 · 05-06-2008, 02:33 PM

I just replaced my whole suspension 2 weekends ago. I definately qualify as a novice, although I had two friends helping me who don't. Took a lot longer than I thought, but that was largely mechanic skills deficiency on my part. I did the front, UCA and LCA's too, andthe LCA relocation brackets and the UCA took up most of the time, which won't be a problem for your install. The Panhard rod and Sway bar are easy.
[ol][*]You'll need a 15 and 18 mm socket, an impact wrench helps to speed things up on the removal steps.[*]Support the rear axle, some people a floor jack under the differential, we used two jack stands on the axle housing. Be careful not to lift the car with the jack under the diff, if you go with that method, just support it's weight.[*]Jack up the car.[*]Unbolt and remove the sway bar. You can reinstall this last.[*]From the inside of the trunk remove the upper shock bolt.[*]Disconect the lower shock bolt[*]Replace the shocks.[*]The panhard rod is pretty simple, just remove and replace. Even I did that one with no help.[*]Assemble the rear sway bar and replace.[/ol]
I am by no means an expect, but that is pretty much the short version of it.

jayel579 · 05-06-2008, 02:45 PM

Do you have your own tools like air compressor to work with? If you do shocks and struts you can do on your own, those shouldnt take you more then 2 hours to do. Go to AutoZone and rent a spring compressor for the front struts, rears are even easier. I rear sway bar isn't hard either, PH rod is the only one I do not know about.

I am a little spoiled in that my father was mechanic for over 40 years and I have a tool box full of $60,000 worth of Snap-on to play with. But I amNO expert on working on cars but I guess inherently I can get my way around a car to work on it. If you have your own tools none of those jobs are hard at all.

http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/index.php?cat=10281

I found this website. If you need exploded diagrams of anything they are in there, use that as a resource to guide you. Or you can go to a barnes & knoble and pick up a service manual of some sort, Chilton or Haynes are very good, do that. Sam Strano told me to get the ford service tech manual.From what I found it is the best one to have but it is also a lot more money then a Chilton or Haynes. If you are not really going to wrench on your car that much spend the $25 bucks on the Chilton instead.

Derf00 · 05-06-2008, 02:55 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: itchy5

I just replaced my whole suspension 2 weekends ago. I definately qualify as a novice, although I had two friends helping me who don't. Took a lot longer than I thought, but that was largely mechanic skills deficiency on my part. I did the front, UCA and LCA's too, andthe LCA relocation brackets and the UCA took up most of the time, which won't be a problem for your install. The Panhard rod and Sway bar are easy.
[ol][*]You'll need a 15 and 18 mm socket, an impact wrench helps to speed things up on the removal steps.[*]Support the rear axle, some people a floor jack under the differential, we used two jack stands on the axle housing. Be careful not to lift the car with the jack under the diff, if you go with that method, just support it's weight.[*]Jack up the car.[*]Unbolt and remove the sway bar. You can reinstall this last.[*]From the inside of the trunk remove the upper shock bolt.[*]Disconect the lower shock bolt[*]Replace the shocks.[*]The panhard rod is pretty simple, just remove and replace. Even I did that one with no help.[*]Assemble the rear sway bar and replace.[/ol]

I am by no means an expect, but that is pretty much the short version of it.

Word of advice regarding the Panhard and Sway bars. You want to install these and adjust the pan hard (if it's adjustable) with the suspension loaded meaning with the car sitting on the ground. Otherwise the sway bar may be at a weird angle or the panhard may not center your rear suspension once you sit the car down.

Here's panhard install link
http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Article...ll-061230.html

itchy5 · 05-06-2008, 03:09 PM

I also forgot to mention, make sure you you put the sway bar on the right way. I originally installed it upside down, put the wheels on, tried to roll the car back ... It was horrible. I scored the inside of my rims because the ends of the sway bar were pointed down and were touching it. On a side note, either I am the only person to ever do this, or other people aren't fessing up to making the same mistake. I searched many forums, I am the only dumb a$$

crazystylin · 05-06-2008, 04:03 PM

If anyone has anything to add, particularly about the tools needed, great.

Resources I have found re: installing rear suspension:

S197 Suspension basics
Steeda Suspension Install Article
Tokico Shocks install
PH Bar & Various
TacoBill PH Bar Install
Suspension Removal/Install Diagrams
TacoBill spring removal(dampers?)
Sway bars install
Adj. UCA Install

Sleeper_08 · 05-06-2008, 09:15 PM

Also make sure you have an 18 MM deep six point socket and some onestrong enough to torque up those 129 ft lb bolts!

Here are the exploded front and rear suspension links which also show the torque settings;

http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...ded%20view.pdf

http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...suspention.pdf

Have you thought about which, if any, fasteners you are going to replace;

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_38863...tm.htm#4347979

Sleeper_08 · 05-06-2008, 09:30 PM

If you are going with an SC then my suggestion is that poly/poly LCA's and UCA are almost essential to get rid of the wheel hop/axle wind up.

This past weekend we installed the Steeda UCA 555-4109, Steeda LCAs 555-4416 and Steeda weld in LCA Reloccation brackets 555-8119 and the difference is amazing. The car now just puts the power to the ground. Putting in the UCA was an absolute PITA but well worth it.

crazystylin · 05-07-2008, 10:10 AM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: Sleeper_08

Have you thought about which, if any, fasteners you are going to replace;

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_38863...tm.htm#4347979

I thought I was supposed to reuse all the hardware. Are there fasteners that are recommended to be used? Don't want to make this project too expensive.

itchy5 · 05-07-2008, 10:52 AM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: Sleeper_08

This past weekend we installed the Steeda UCA 555-4109, Steeda LCAs 555-4416 and Steeda weld in LCA Reloccation brackets 555-8119 and the difference is amazing.

Sleeper,

Were you able to use the Ford flag bolt on the differential bushing for your UCA? The aftermarket UCA's do not have the stop for the flag bolts. Maybe I didn't use enough MAN, but we just couldn't hold the flag end of the bolt well enough to put 129 ft-lbs on the nylock nut.