This will be my first full summer with the whipple and i'm wondering if I should look into an aftermarket radiator before replacing the short block and upping the boost.
I have a 3-4 mile drive through my neighborhood which is all 45mph or less. I noticed my coolant temp was getting over 200 and then the fan would kick on and drop it back down to 195. I popped the hood when i got home and i'm pretty sure my coolant reservoir cap is not holding the pressure it should be. It was hissing pretty steady and pushing on it made it stop.
I realize that more power means more heat. Besides a aftermarket radiator, what else can you do to cool the engine?
By the way, why does whipple supply a 160* thermostat if they aren't going to change the fan temps? My fan doesn't come on until the coolant gets to 205 and my head temps are allready at 220 by that time. It seems a bit silly to me since i've never seen the coolant temp below 170 once the engine is warmed up. Maybe that's because my reservoir cap is leaking.
Is Fluidyne the best bet for a radiator? D'Agostino racing has several brands listed for our cars.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
hey moose...I had mine with the saleen all last year with stock radiator and no issues what so ever.... however, but I guess it would not hurt to be safe and invest in one...as far as who, I was going to go with the one from D'Agostinos last year but backed out last minute...TJ
hey moose...I had mine with the saleen all last year with stock radiator and no issues what so ever.... however, but I guess it would not hurt to be safe and invest in one...as far as who, I was going to go with the one from D'Agostinos last year but backed out last minute...TJ
I don't think i'll have a problem at my current power level, but eventually I'd like to upgrade the radiator when i upgrade the block.
I also thought about replacing my grill with the center fog one and i'm wondering if that will hurt as well. Anyone know if the aftermarket grills have some of the holes covered like the stock one does. I'm still not sure why ford did that.
The coolant overflow cap isn't suppose to hiss right.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
Posts: 1968
Joined: 7/11/2007 From: parts unknown Status: offline
my ECT's before and after the SC were about the same, anywhere from 160-190 when driving, and in traffic can get over 210 but my fan goes on around 202-205 i think. i only had the SC for maybe 2 months now, but i live in hawaii and the temps stay about the same year round. the most i drove it was from 9 am to 7 pm w/ stops here and there along the way, and the temps stayed the same. but i was also looking into bigger radiator, bigger reservoir, and bigger intercooler reservoir to help w/ the heat, and should help keep hp up too, and should help w/ longevity of the engine.
anyone try water wetter?
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2007 GT 5spd Whipple Crew Member Boomtube Crew Member My Car
Your engine won't be making any more power when cruising at 45mph regardless of what you do to it. So, unless you are worried about overheating at the track, I don't see the need to upgrade your rad.
I doubt you will see much difference in running temperature between OEM and Fluidyne. Water wetter is great stuff. I run water wetter and distilled water in my intercooler.
Posts: 1968
Joined: 7/11/2007 From: parts unknown Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: zkiller
I doubt you will see much difference in running temperature between OEM and Fluidyne. Water wetter is great stuff. I run water wetter and distilled water in my intercooler.
what about in the radiator? that should work the same, right.
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2007 GT 5spd Whipple Crew Member Boomtube Crew Member My Car
I need to get another bottle. I initially put one in when installing the supercharger, but I flushed the coolant since then because I mixed the motorcraft with prestone.
Everything i've read indicates it works great.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
Posts: 2714
Joined: 4/26/2005 From: Babylon, NY Status: offline
Well I don't live down by you but I've run my Saleen in over 90 degree temp for hours and no problems. All the Stage 3 Roush's and S/C Saleens come with the factory radiator and I don't hear of them overheating an mass numbers so I'd bet you'd be fine.
Are other S197s at the track where you are running aftermarket radiators?
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05 GT Vert Auto, Saleen S/C 10psi VMP tune, Roush springs,D-Specs,Steeda LCAs,Swaybar,Panhard bar & brace,Spydershaft,TruTrac,3.73,BBK shortys,Corsa A/B.
Also, to answer the question about the grill... no worries. Most of the airflow into the engine is actually coming from the lower opening anyway, so you should be ok.
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"Vera" '07 GT. Manual, 3.55's, Spohn Adj LCA's, Hurst Shifter, GT 500 Rear and chin spoilers, GTA's, Steeda UDP, Roush rear springs, ProFab CAI #6, BBK Shorties
"Dyno's Rarely Lie, but E.T.'s and Trap speed say so much more."
Heat is heat and you seem convinced that you're upgrading the short block so why not just get the fluidyne now? Two friends of mine here one, won the true street Fun Ford Weekend at New England Dragway has a vortec s-trim runing around 17psi and swears by it. Two of the big tuner shops here also swear by it as well.
There's also WaterMeth injection if you'd want to go that route. Or just retune for the fan to kick on around 190-195.
I have a mishimoto radiator and put a bottle of Super Coolant in. My friend works at a parts distributor and I had a chance to put the fluidyne radiator next to the mishimoto. They wre about the same in size and the mishimoto actually had better welds on it. It was way cheaper than the fluidyne also. Either way i had 30 percent off any of these radiators. I recommend the Mishimoto for the price and quality.
Posts: 803
Joined: 5/19/2006 From: Fort Mcmurray, Ab Status: offline
In my Whipple install instructions it tells me to add Water Wetter to the Supercharger resevoir and to the Engine Coolant system. At least one bottle to each, with a 60%/40% Distilled water/Coolant ratio in both. That's for <10psi anything more than 10psi should be a 75%/25% ratio in both.
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Flowmasters, JLT 2 Intake, Xcal 2 91 Tune, BMR LCA In the closet: Pro kit, Granatelli Line Locs Whipple Crew Member
I plan on installing a Granatelli/MMR radiator while I'm installing the Whipple this week, so I'll report up if I notice any difference. I don't think a new radiator is really a neccesity, but it can't hurt either. Besides, new knick-knacks for the car are always fun
I plan on installing a Granatelli/MMR radiator while I'm installing the Whipple this week, so I'll report up if I notice any difference. I don't think a new radiator is really a neccesity, but it can't hurt either. Besides, new knick-knacks for the car are always fun
David
Once you compare the POS stock radiator next to a aluminum you will be surprised by the size diffrence.
Moose, my Coolant temps stay in the 180-200 range cruising. I think you have bad radiator cap. I shouldnt hiss.
I dont think my installer put in any Water Wetter during my install. I plan to add 1 bottle to the engine coolant, and a half bottle to the intercooler.
I plan to install a new radiator at the same time as the shortblock. That new FRPP Aluminator 3V shortblock looks good. Anyone know if they are going to make it a long block with their CNC'd heads? The 4 valve one is like $6300 MSRP for the complete long block. Not too bad, might call Steve and see what he can get them for.
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2007 Satin Silver GT 5 speed manual 3.55 gears Pypes Violater exhaust MGW Shifter BMR Control Arms Whipple HO
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Overheating a problem with a supercharger? - 
