Ok, I've been reading post after post and it seems there is an endless number of parts and problems lowering our cars. I know I'm going to need an adjustable panhard bar. Does this kit from BMR cover everything that is needed? http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangPACKAGES.htm
I'm an idiot for forgetting, but I read something about this not being complete in terms of helping handling/acceleration. There was a part on the rear axle, the part that actually pushes on the chasis of the car, and if you lowered the car without adjusting it the force from acceleration would force your rear tires up and you would lose traction.
Basically, I'm looking for a shopping list of parts that would lower my car without any adverse effects. Since most people ask what I want from the car to help out with recommendations, I would just say to keep the car performance wise where it is, if not improve, but I def don't want to sacrifice anything to drop it an inch.
Some also recommend an adjustable upper control arm for the rear end. This can be set to correct the pinion angle that will change when you lower the car.
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Scott 2007 Shelby GT Performance White Paxton Supercharged 4.10's 499rwhp 440rwtq 12.65 @ 114mph on stock street tires
there are sundry opinions about this topic - many here at the forums have installed just rear springs (viz., rousch) or a pro-kit (eibach) without any additional changes whatsoever, and report no adverse effects. so that's something to consider.
personally, i changed a number of things when i lowered my stang, except for the uca; i've had no problems (see my sig). but the basic list of typically swapped rear suspension components is as follows, where "*" are optional but recommended:
From what I've gathered, the minimal equipment should consist of springs, dampers and adjustable PHB. You can add to that if you have problems or are unhappy.
Lowering can change pinion angle and put the diff off center, yet some people report being in spec after using a conservative drop spring. Tacobills pinion angle was within spec following installing the Steeda Ultralites. You also have to ask yourself what you are setting the car up for and then make decisions to fulfill that. If you are an autocrosser, having the LCA at a disadvantageous angle for drag racing traction may not concern you. Check the handling section.
My plan is start with Steeda sport springs (1" drop), Tokico struts/shocks and adjustable panhard bar. I'll re-evaluate at that point. I don't want to buy a lot of parts, which add up really fast, that aren't necessary for my application. In my situation there has to be a compromise between optimal setup and expense.
Check F1Fan's posts in the handling section. That will educate on every part imaginable. However, he does recommend changing almost everything, while Sam Strano seems to think a lot of it is unneccessary.
< Message edited by Vapour Trails -- 5/6/2008 10:51:37 AM >
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Steeda CAI&UDP/Bama Tune/FRPP 4.10 Steeda Sport Springs & HD Strut Mounts / D-Specs 2006 GT - 13.37@105.8
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Joined: 10/9/2007 From: Harrisburg PA Status: offline
Pretty good advice in the above posts. Add my 2 cents:
Personally I wouldn't go with one of those kits - depending on which you get they either have too much (don't need sway bars) or too little (yes you need dampers).
Like Ink said: Springs - decide on the drop you want and then select the brand. The BMR springs are a big drop, I believe, which can mess up your suspension geometry. Dampers - only two choices: Tokico D-Specs or Koni Sports. Don't be swayed by others, go read Sam or F1Fan's posts on the subject Adj PHB - Spohn, CHE, BMR, Steeda
Those are the biggies, the other stuff is debatable depending on what you want to do. With the stock drive shaft, a less than 1.5" drop is not going to ruin you pinion angle and thus you don't need adj UCA or LCAs (you don't need them to adjust pinion, you may need or want them for other reasons). If you are big into drag racing and care about your times, then reloc brakets are appropriate. If you are into performance handling then a good alignment with some negative camber is needed, thus some camber adjusters in the front. So you can see, it really depends what you want. Get the above first, try it and you will probably love it. You can add other stuff later if you need or want it.
By the way, most lowering springs have a higher spring rate, stiffer ride. The adjustable dampers can tune it out, thats a big reason you want the adjustables. I say this because you mentioned you don't want to sacrifice ride.
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07 Vista Blue GT 5spd, BBK CAI, Brenspeed, Raptor, 18" DD Bullits, MGW Shifter, 4.10s, Eibach Pro, D-Specs, Violators, Cervini's Grill, Spohn adj PHB & UCA
Thanks for everyone's advice. How much does that whole set up cost? So far its looks like springs, dampers, and adj PHB would run nearly $1k. Is that what I can expect to pay to lower the car?
Posts: 812
Joined: 10/9/2007 From: Harrisburg PA Status: offline
Here is what I paid: Eibach Pro - $223 D-Specs - $503 Spohn Adjust PH bar - $157 (I got the most expensive chrom-moly one)
Total = $883
Did the install myself so I saved on labor...but I had to buy some tools (floor jack, deep well sockets, jack stands, torque wrench, etc). Of course I justify the tool purchase with the numerous other usages since.
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07 Vista Blue GT 5spd, BBK CAI, Brenspeed, Raptor, 18" DD Bullits, MGW Shifter, 4.10s, Eibach Pro, D-Specs, Violators, Cervini's Grill, Spohn adj PHB & UCA
Installation isn't bad if you've worked on cars a bit. The rear will be the easiest. I'd allow a full day for everything. Get a spring compressor. Read Tacobills write ups.
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Steeda CAI&UDP/Bama Tune/FRPP 4.10 Steeda Sport Springs & HD Strut Mounts / D-Specs 2006 GT - 13.37@105.8
Eibach Pro-Kit was absolutely perfect for me, nice good drop.. looks great. Did the rear myself (free) and Ford did the front for $350, including the front-end alignment. Not other parts needed, but will probably add caster plates & shocks/struts next year. Ride quality did not diminish one bit, minus the need to take it slower over speedbumps and dips. Performance wise, it put a HUGE smile across my face; not only the way it corners, but just the way it hugs the road in general. Safe & sound here. (pic in sig, before the drop)
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2008 Mustang GT; Premium, Black on Black 3:55 Gears 40 Series Flowmaster Axelbacks Eibach Pro-Kit JLT CAI & SCT XCAL, Custom Tuned by Bamachips
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Joined: 10/9/2007 From: Harrisburg PA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: ian.nacke How hard was it to install all that? How long did it take?
The rear springs, dampers, and PHB are simple - a couple hrs if you are slow. The front is more difficult. I got frustrated because I didn't have some of the right tools and had to run out to Sears. The car actually spent overnight on the jackstands. Now...I can get a front strut out in about 15 min, the value of experience.
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07 Vista Blue GT 5spd, BBK CAI, Brenspeed, Raptor, 18" DD Bullits, MGW Shifter, 4.10s, Eibach Pro, D-Specs, Violators, Cervini's Grill, Spohn adj PHB & UCA
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Safely Lowering GT - 
