New to the forum with my first mustang ever i grabbed an 08 last week for a steal of a price right out the dealers showroom
PremGT model w auto.........Being into car audio pretty much for the last 15 years or so and added aftermarket systems to
every car or truck I have ever known I really didnt want to add heavy subs and enclosures to this new ride for weight savings...
I also would rather keep the Sirrus 6 CD radio that came with the car instead of using an after market HU than having to buy a
SAT radio reciever and rewire the whole thing...but that may be inevitable we'll have to see...

My goal is to make the shaker 500 sound decent......
First off the imaging is all over the place , no matter what setting I do
it sounds off axis and out of wack - I never use rear fill and even with the rear's off
the thing is sounding at my toes , esp with those thumping low quality 8" midbass woofers Ford has supplied...or are they subwoofers?

So I am thinking what might be a simple solution,the car 100% definatly needs a subwoofer as it will pull back some of the imaging(i hope)
and give the car the low end BASS its missing ,it needs better highs,I am sure Ford's 6x8 is a paper cone :eek:and a real speaker would
really wake up the place and restructure some imaging

I think the 8's in the doors 100% without a doubt need to go - I am going to shop for some,I was thinking
I could find some shallow ones on Madisound or Parts Express - I have never used 8s before in a car so I am in dark terratory.
The HU should really offeran adjustment for these as a seprate control,they are tooprominate but that may get better with a better woofer..
The 6x8 door speakers normally Id toss in some 6.5" comps and an amp and rock on but thats not happening So I need to shop
some 6.5 coax's or 6.8s but im thinking 6.5s are the way to go,it's too bad Crystal Mobile Sound went under,they pretty much had the best
coax you could get for a short while - Need to find something that can run off HU power....hmmmm.

And for the sub......I have 3 at my disposal a old Diamond M6,it needs a solid 700-800 watts to work right,I also have a Diamond TDX
which wants 1000-1200 watts to work right so that means HEAVY amps not too mention the enclosure sub
My TDX box and amp combined weigh in at close to 100 lbs.........I think thats not the way to go..........

I own also a few eD 9kvs from a HT systems gone bad,they are light and will take 300watts or so each and they are small
so Im thining 2 ported 8s with 300 watts to each may get the job done....hmmmmm


Anyways,gimme your thoughts if you have any
and if someone could get me a link or instructions for HU and Doorpanel removal that would be really appreciated


ROCK ON


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/excelerater/PIC_0113.jpg

I couldn't agree more about the imaging/soundstage on the Shaker. It is horrible. It almost sounds like it moves around the car at random sometimes. I have ordered 2 pairs of Boston Acoustic S85's to replace the stockers. I will see how it ends up sounding once I receive them. It can't be any worse than the stock pieces.
If that doesn't help enough i will install a new head unit and run that for a while till I can afford to install amps too. It may not break any SPL records but at least theimaging will improve.

I've been looking at Crutchfield's web site http://www.crutchfield.com. They will let you put in your car's year and model and give you compatable speakers. I'm considering the JL Audio C5-570 (maybe something less expensive) for the fronts and JL Audio TR570-CXi for the back. I was hoping to leave the head unit and sub woofers alone.


(http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?showAll=N&g=400&i=136TR570CX&tp=105)[/align][/align]

you guys will need to either replace your deck, or buy another amp to drive any of thespeakers that you want to replace. The stock speakers are an 8 ohmwoofer so replacing them with a 4 ohm full range speakers will make for a blown amp. If you have replace the deck you can wire then to the new deck with minimal wiring.

ORIGINAL: ttocs

you guys will need to either replace your deck, or buy another amp to drive any of thespeakers that you want to replace. The stock speakers are an 8 ohmwoofer so replacing them with a 4 ohm full range speakers will make for a blown amp. If you have replace the deck you can wire then to the new deck with minimal wiring.


where is it written as fact that a the amp will fry from switching from an 8ohm driver to a 4ohm driver?

I have a set of AURA MR62s Braxles I am thinking of using for my front stage (old school awsome comps) and dumping the front 8s all together
than adding a sealed 12 (because I have several on my shelf's) out back all powered by a DLS 3ch amp.......Id really wanna retain the factory HU
even though I have an Excelon 889 HU on my shelf I wanna keep it simple,maybe one of those new
OEM interface cleansweep type gadits will help better than a LOC.......

it may not be written as a fact... but judging by the quality of a lot of ford's OTHER parts on these things... its probably not the best made amp in the world. and you are basically doubling its load. it may not blow the amp right away but i can say that it will almost certainly blow eventually.

When you go from 8 to 4 ohms, you cut the resistance in half which means the amp will draw 2x the current that it was made to handle. It is not written anwhere other then this post but if you don't beleive me go ahead and prove me right. I will be more then happy to bet you what you want and double dog dare ya.

Are you really going to run all that great gear off of your factory radio? The head units in fords have always been the weak point of the chain in both sound quality and dependability. To build a system on top of it would be like trying to turn an 84 yugo with the stock motor/tranny into a drag racer.....

ORIGINAL: excelerater

ORIGINAL: ttocs

you guys will need to either replace your deck, or buy another amp to drive any of thespeakers that you want to replace. The stock speakers are an 8 ohmwoofer so replacing them with a 4 ohm full range speakers will make for a blown amp. If you have replace the deck you can wire then to the new deck with minimal wiring.


where is it written as fact that a the amp will fry from switching from an 8ohm driver to a 4ohm driver?

I have a set of AURA MR62s Braxles I am thinking of using for my front stage (old school awsome comps) and dumping the front 8s all together
than adding a sealed 12 (because I have several on my shelf's) out back all powered by a DLS 3ch amp.......Id really wanna retain the factory HU
even though I have an Excelon 889 HU on my shelf I wanna keep it simple,maybe one of those new
OEM interface cleansweep type gadits will help better than a LOC.......

Let me correct something by saying, that if you go from 8 ohm to 4 ohm speakers you will be doulbling the load on the output transistors in the PA stage of the amp. Unless those transistors are protected by some kind of impedance matching device (which I am sure they are not), you will ended destroying th PA stage in the amp.
Ed

ORIGINAL: ttocs

When you go from 8 to 4 ohms, you cut the resistance in half which means the amp will draw 2x the current that it was made to handle. It is not written anwhere other then this post but if you don't beleive me go ahead and prove me right. I will be more then happy to bet you what you want and double dog dare ya.

Are you really going to run all that great gear off of your factory radio? The head units in fords have always been the weak point of the chain in both sound quality and dependability. To build a system on top of it would be like trying to turn an 84 yugo with the stock motor/tranny into a drag racer.....

ORIGINAL: excelerater

ORIGINAL: ttocs

you guys will need to either replace your deck, or buy another amp to drive any of thespeakers that you want to replace. The stock speakers are an 8 ohmwoofer so replacing them with a 4 ohm full range speakers will make for a blown amp. If you have replace the deck you can wire then to the new deck with minimal wiring.


where is it written as fact that a the amp will fry from switching from an 8ohm driver to a 4ohm driver?

I have a set of AURA MR62s Braxles I am thinking of using for my front stage (old school awsome comps) and dumping the front 8s all together
than adding a sealed 12 (because I have several on my shelf's) out back all powered by a DLS 3ch amp.......Id really wanna retain the factory HU
even though I have an Excelon 889 HU on my shelf I wanna keep it simple,maybe one of those new
OEM interface cleansweep type gadits will help better than a LOC.......




I am usually in favor of a 100% aftermarket HU....I was hoping in 2008 the interface units these companys are making actually work well.......
We'll see,I am curious how I can make use of the Sirrus radio Ford gave me,I suspect Ill have a hard time of it if I go aftermarket HU

i replaced the stereo a few times(I work in the industry/buy at wholesale) so figured the cheapest thing to do was add a head unit and bypass the stock amps with a 4 ch.amp. The sound from the new amp with a more belivable 65 watts per ch. was a 10 times better.I thenreplased the 10's with JL's but i couldnt hear it over the door subs(they hit with more power).

if anybody needs a hook-up on prices, let me know. I hate see people pay retail mark up.

I work for PAC tha makes OEM integration parts, so adding a amp or head unit is plug and play

IIRC on the shaker 500 system, the coaxes are 4ohm and the 8" midbass is 8ohm, so you should be okay with regular door speakers and something like this for the woofer http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-366 assuming the mounting depth is okay.

ORIGINAL: glastron

IIRC on the shaker 500 system, the coaxes are 4ohm and the 8" midbass is 8ohm, so you should be okay with regular door speakers and something like this for the woofer http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-366 assuming the mounting depth is okay.


I plan to not run the 8s in the doors and just put my comps there instead .......If I were to run 8s Id have to run an active 3 way set up
for it to sound correct - might be pretty cool to do as well but it would take a better tuner than me to make it sound right