im getting a strocker short block for my 06 , 4.6 k.b int / the engine builder said we could run up to 20lbs on pump gas ? w/o meth from what i no this is not possible ? should i look somewhere else ?
Posts: 326
Joined: 3/13/2006 From: Las Vegas, NV Status: offline
Pulley swaps are so easy with a KB there is no reason to even try it. Get a 16psi pulley for your street tune and get a 20psi pulley for your race tune.
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60'=1.635 1/8=7.584 @ 90.61 1/4=12.003 @ 110.98 2500' DA. 424rwhp@399t @8psi Kenne Bell,BMR,SLP,Eibach,Auburn,Strange,TCI,Prothane,Hurst,Ford Racing,BFG,MT,MGW My Garage
im still planning to run a meth inj/ block can handle 800 h.p 302/304 bore with strock i would like 700h.p but dont no if thats likely w/o that much boost not sure on fuel setup but i have a b.a.p , ill look into the shelby fuel pump setup , car made 476 at 10psi everything stock except s.charger
Posts: 326
Joined: 3/13/2006 From: Las Vegas, NV Status: offline
You will need to run that much boost to get those numbers but I don't think you will on pump gas. You will need to upgrade the fuel system, probably the throttle body, you will need to go to an 8 rib setup, bigger injectors, your ignition will need some attention.
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60'=1.635 1/8=7.584 @ 90.61 1/4=12.003 @ 110.98 2500' DA. 424rwhp@399t @8psi Kenne Bell,BMR,SLP,Eibach,Auburn,Strange,TCI,Prothane,Hurst,Ford Racing,BFG,MT,MGW My Garage
im still planning to run a meth inj/ block can handle 800 h.p 302/304 bore with strock i would like 700h.p but dont no if thats likely w/o that much boost not sure on fuel setup but i have a b.a.p , ill look into the shelby fuel pump setup , car made 476 at 10psi everything stock except s.charger
I am not a big fan of meth.
My OPINION for all your plans. So dont get affended any one if you think other wise.
Meth is dangerous because if the system has any type of failure there is no going back. Your engine is done. Just run 110 at the track instead of Meth and you can make better numbers and be safe.
Your BAP with that much power is a tinker toy as is the GT500 pump. You can get away with the GT500 pump with two BAP for 700rwhp but I doubt 800 even with upgraded lines. You will need lethal performances new fuel system that they have collaberated to make. Which will support 3 GT40 Pumps, Billet Fuel Hat, MDM to power all the pumps, Lines, and Rails. No other system will support the power you have planned that I know about. Lethal has another system out right now but they are trying not to sale them because of the release of the new one. MMR has one as well but Lethal system is far superior. Cost is unknown but I would think it would be around 1700+
You will need some extensive suspension work as well, 1 pc drive shaft, I have seen stock rear ends hold together good with just upgraded girdles, but I have also only seen stock rear ends on 700ish cars not 800. The tranny wont last long and you will probably melt through clutches unless you are an auto. In that case you will need some mods to beef that up some more.
does KB have a 12 rib pulley kit? If not you will need the 8 Rib and a belt tensioner, Possibly an upgraded Intercooler (not sure what IC KB gives out) Black Diamond or Accufab Throttle Body because after i think 14psi you will have issues I have heard and not sure what the part is called but the elbow that the TB hooks to will need to be replaced as well for a more free flowing one. Sorry I am a Procharger guy so I dont know all the stuff for KB.
Next question I have to ask why do you want pump gas? Do you want 800rwhp on the street if so why do you need that much power on the street? 800rwhp with a KB on the street would mean around 800ftlbs of toque lol how long do you plan on having your tires for lol :)
I think if you can get a street tune of 650rwhp is enough for the street and a 750rwhp for the track would more then make you happy. The track is what matters any ways. With that much power it wouldnt matter what tires you had you would have some serious traction issues on the street, I am not sure if instant boost would be fun any more lol.
Be mindful on meth though the reason why allot of Turbo guys and Centrifugal guys run it is to make up for the lack of Torque we make as well as nitrous for us. There are so many upgrades to be done to have a car reach 800rwhp I am taking that path right now, and have spent a small fortune all ready just on supporting mods.
Posts: 326
Joined: 3/13/2006 From: Las Vegas, NV Status: offline
I agree with Tach above. Thats why I was suggesting just doing a pulley swap. KB's 8 rib will hold 20 psi. There is a Kenne Bell Tech forum on M0dular F0rds that you might want to check out.
_____________________________
60'=1.635 1/8=7.584 @ 90.61 1/4=12.003 @ 110.98 2500' DA. 424rwhp@399t @8psi Kenne Bell,BMR,SLP,Eibach,Auburn,Strange,TCI,Prothane,Hurst,Ford Racing,BFG,MT,MGW My Garage
Posts: 253
Joined: 3/10/2008 From: San Juan, Puerto Rico Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: tached_out
quote:
ORIGINAL: tooslow
im still planning to run a meth inj/ block can handle 800 h.p 302/304 bore with strock i would like 700h.p but dont no if thats likely w/o that much boost not sure on fuel setup but i have a b.a.p , ill look into the shelby fuel pump setup , car made 476 at 10psi everything stock except s.charger
I am not a big fan of meth.
My OPINION for all your plans. So dont get affended any one if you think other wise.
Meth is dangerous because if the system has any type of failure there is no going back. Your engine is done. Just run 110 at the track instead of Meth and you can make better numbers and be safe.
Your BAP with that much power is a tinker toy as is the GT500 pump. You can get away with the GT500 pump with two BAP for 700rwhp but I doubt 800 even with upgraded lines. You will need lethal performances new fuel system that they have collaberated to make. Which will support 3 GT40 Pumps, Billet Fuel Hat, MDM to power all the pumps, Lines, and Rails. No other system will support the power you have planned that I know about. Lethal has another system out right now but they are trying not to sale them because of the release of the new one. MMR has one as well but Lethal system is far superior. Cost is unknown but I would think it would be around 1700+
You will need some extensive suspension work as well, 1 pc drive shaft, I have seen stock rear ends hold together good with just upgraded girdles, but I have also only seen stock rear ends on 700ish cars not 800. The tranny wont last long and you will probably melt through clutches unless you are an auto. In that case you will need some mods to beef that up some more.
does KB have a 12 rib pulley kit? If not you will need the 8 Rib and a belt tensioner, Possibly an upgraded Intercooler (not sure what IC KB gives out) Black Diamond or Accufab Throttle Body because after i think 14psi you will have issues I have heard and not sure what the part is called but the elbow that the TB hooks to will need to be replaced as well for a more free flowing one. Sorry I am a Procharger guy so I dont know all the stuff for KB.
Next question I have to ask why do you want pump gas? Do you want 800rwhp on the street if so why do you need that much power on the street? 800rwhp with a KB on the street would mean around 800ftlbs of toque lol how long do you plan on having your tires for lol :)
I think if you can get a street tune of 650rwhp is enough for the street and a 750rwhp for the track would more then make you happy. The track is what matters any ways. With that much power it wouldnt matter what tires you had you would have some serious traction issues on the street, I am not sure if instant boost would be fun any more lol.
Be mindful on meth though the reason why allot of Turbo guys and Centrifugal guys run it is to make up for the lack of Torque we make as well as nitrous for us. There are so many upgrades to be done to have a car reach 800rwhp I am taking that path right now, and have spent a small fortune all ready just on supporting mods.
I completely disagree with you on watermethanol injection. on the fuel system and pretty much everything you have said on this post. 1st of all the lethal performance ultimate fuel system is riddled with problems as you ALREADY KNOW. 700hp with a gt500 setup is DOABLE there are some gt500's already running 710hp with their stock fuel system. You can lower your duty cycles with the dual BAP's. The triple fuel pump set-up is way over kill I would only consider it if you were over 1krwhp. I am with you on the daily driver 800rwhp with a KB that will be completely wasted power. If you were turbo it would be better because you can control the PSI per gear and RPM's which would make it much more streetable. The reason people use water methanol injection is because of TWO THINGS. 1. To lower the Temperature inside the combustion chamber(water) to reduce chance of detonation 2. To raise the octane of the gasoline to also reduce the chance of detonation. Here is a write-up I made on water methanol injection so that you can read and educate yourself on it.
After seeing various threads about water methanol injection I decided to dedicate a thread on more precise info. Mods please put on Table of contents! thanks
Water/meth injection is a great modification and can be used for basically all type of motorsports. Usually people use methanol and water already premixed in the form of windshield cleaning liquids that already come with a % of alcohol to lower the freezing temperature of the liquid in cold temperatures. But there is also people that have tanks in their house and do their own mixes 30%water/70%methanol, 50%water/50%methanol and then they are people that only use water or alcohol only.
Water helps to lower the temperature in the combustion chamber and the alcohol to increase the octane rating of the gasoline. Injecting water only you benefit by lowering the combustion temperature and you can increase timing/boost w/o having detonation. Injecting alcohol only you benefit from the increased octane rating that the alcohol provides and the octane rating for example from your regular 93 octane gas can go to 105 octane thus preventing even further detonation.
It is a great upgrade but at the same time it is very dangerous. I don’t know if you know that methanol is extremely dangerous if it is inhaled or if it comes into contact with skin; it is a cancerous substance. It is also extremely corrosive(For example cars that run with methanol for gasoline have to “flush” the fuel system after every race or event) having an extra plastic tank (with alcohol) in the trunk with alcohol lines going thru the cabin is extremely dangerous in an accident; it is a fire hazard. But also if it is used with caution and knowning how to use it with all necessary precautions it is a great upgrade it allows you to run almost as if you were running c16 on your gas tank and it is much cheaper than race gas.
There is a huge variety of water/alcohol injection systems (coolingmist, aquamist, hydramist, snow performance, fjo racing, devils own, etc…) Some work “stand alone” and others need to be connected to an engine management computer. They are simple systems that only include the tank, lines, fittings, bombs and the controller. After connecting everything, the controller needs a input of boost/vacuum or MAP/MAF input and you decide at how many pounds of boost (or vacuum N/A) is when you want the system to start injecting water/alcohol and at how many pounds you want it to stop, as you keep increasing boost most systems typically inject more water/methanol in a linear manner until reaching your max boost level. They are other systems that require input from the injector and the system “matches” the flow of water/alcohol with the injector flow.
It has been proved hundreds of times that only adding a water/methanol injection system w/o any other change in a/f ratios, boost or timing you are going to gain absolutely NOTHING… many even loose hp because the a/f is lowered exponentially.
One of the things that you have to keep in mind are “fail safes” for when the system fails. For example the pump stops working, the line gets clogged, your water/methanol tank is empty and you didn’t notice it and you are at full boost this typically means a blown motor. That is unless you have some sort of “fail safe” that allow the ecu of your car to change to a less aggressive map (93 octane only) or lower the wastegate boost among others.
I don’t know if you have seen pistons, valves and engine heads from a motor that uses water injection vs. one that does not use wat
< Message edited by Androdz2 -- 4/30/2008 2:22:05 AM >
We'll only go as far as 11 lbs on pump gas. The 16 and 20 lb tunes are on 116 octane. Even before the race tunes, when we ran the street tune at the track, we slipped in a gallon of 116 for insurance. The 11 lb pump gas tune produces 520/530. Since car does not street race at all, that's really way more than enough for the street. All the above is what we do...doesn't mean it's the only way or the best way...just what we're comfortable with.
Posts: 253
Joined: 3/10/2008 From: San Juan, Puerto Rico Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: forensicsteve
We'll only go as far as 11 lbs on pump gas. The 16 and 20 lb tunes are on 116 octane. Even before the race tunes, when we ran the street tune at the track, we slipped in a gallon of 116 for insurance. The 11 lb pump gas tune produces 520/530. Since car does not street race at all, that's really way more than enough for the street. All the above is what we do...doesn't mean it's the only way or the best way...just what we're comfortable with.
Exactly what you can do is raise the safety threshold on a car. WHy do u want to risk over 5k on a shortblock just going kaboom when just $6 can make u go safer. I am currently setting up a w/m system for my car for safety. Will just spray water to lower the IAT's, will have a different map for the alcohol.
if i decide to go with this whats a good price for this with install / a dss strocker short block alumium/ valve springs /clutch not sur with one ?/meth inj/ tuned/ill be supplying all the stuff from k.b , 8 rib, 60 lbs inj. fuel pumps etc
im still planning to run a meth inj/ block can handle 800 h.p 302/304 bore with strock i would like 700h.p but dont no if thats likely w/o that much boost not sure on fuel setup but i have a b.a.p , ill look into the shelby fuel pump setup , car made 476 at 10psi everything stock except s.charger
I am not a big fan of meth.
My OPINION for all your plans. So dont get affended any one if you think other wise.
Meth is dangerous because if the system has any type of failure there is no going back. Your engine is done. Just run 110 at the track instead of Meth and you can make better numbers and be safe.
Your BAP with that much power is a tinker toy as is the GT500 pump. You can get away with the GT500 pump with two BAP for 700rwhp but I doubt 800 even with upgraded lines. You will need lethal performances new fuel system that they have collaberated to make. Which will support 3 GT40 Pumps, Billet Fuel Hat, MDM to power all the pumps, Lines, and Rails. No other system will support the power you have planned that I know about. Lethal has another system out right now but they are trying not to sale them because of the release of the new one. MMR has one as well but Lethal system is far superior. Cost is unknown but I would think it would be around 1700+
You will need some extensive suspension work as well, 1 pc drive shaft, I have seen stock rear ends hold together good with just upgraded girdles, but I have also only seen stock rear ends on 700ish cars not 800. The tranny wont last long and you will probably melt through clutches unless you are an auto. In that case you will need some mods to beef that up some more.
does KB have a 12 rib pulley kit? If not you will need the 8 Rib and a belt tensioner, Possibly an upgraded Intercooler (not sure what IC KB gives out) Black Diamond or Accufab Throttle Body because after i think 14psi you will have issues I have heard and not sure what the part is called but the elbow that the TB hooks to will need to be replaced as well for a more free flowing one. Sorry I am a Procharger guy so I dont know all the stuff for KB.
Next question I have to ask why do you want pump gas? Do you want 800rwhp on the street if so why do you need that much power on the street? 800rwhp with a KB on the street would mean around 800ftlbs of toque lol how long do you plan on having your tires for lol :)
I think if you can get a street tune of 650rwhp is enough for the street and a 750rwhp for the track would more then make you happy. The track is what matters any ways. With that much power it wouldnt matter what tires you had you would have some serious traction issues on the street, I am not sure if instant boost would be fun any more lol.
Be mindful on meth though the reason why allot of Turbo guys and Centrifugal guys run it is to make up for the lack of Torque we make as well as nitrous for us. There are so many upgrades to be done to have a car reach 800rwhp I am taking that path right now, and have spent a small fortune all ready just on supporting mods.
I completely disagree with you on watermethanol injection. on the fuel system and pretty much everything you have said on this post. 1st of all the lethal performance ultimate fuel system is riddled with problems as you ALREADY KNOW. 700hp with a gt500 setup is DOABLE there are some gt500's already running 710hp with their stock fuel system. You can lower your duty cycles with the dual BAP's. The triple fuel pump set-up is way over kill I would only consider it if you were over 1krwhp. I am with you on the daily driver 800rwhp with a KB that will be completely wasted power. If you were turbo it would be better because you can control the PSI per gear and RPM's which would make it much more streetable. The reason people use water methanol injection is because of TWO THINGS. 1. To lower the Temperature inside the combustion chamber(water) to reduce chance of detonation 2. To raise the octane of the gasoline to also reduce the chance of detonation. Here is a write-up I made on water methanol injection so that you can read and educate yourself on it.
After seeing various threads about water methanol injection I decided to dedicate a thread on more precise info. Mods please put on Table of contents! thanks
Water/meth injection is a great modification and can be used for basically all type of motorsports. Usually people use methanol and water already premixed in the form of windshield cleaning liquids that already come with a % of alcohol to lower the freezing temperature of the liquid in cold temperatures. But there is also people that have tanks in their house and do their own mixes 30%water/70%methanol, 50%water/50%methanol and then they are people that only use water or alcohol only.
Water helps to lower the temperature in the combustion chamber and the alcohol to increase the octane rating of the gasoline. Injecting water only you benefit by lowering the combustion temperature and you can increase timing/boost w/o having detonation. Injecting alcohol only you benefit from the increased octane rating that the alcohol provides and the octane rating for example from your regular 93 octane gas can go to 105 octane thus preventing even further detonation.
It is a great upgrade but at the same time it is very dangerous. I don’t know if you know that methanol is extremely dangerous if it is inhaled or if it comes into contact with skin; it is a cancerous substance. It is also extremely corrosive(For example cars that run with methanol for gasoline have to “flush” the fuel system after every race or event) having an extra plastic tank (with alcohol) in the trunk with alcohol lines going thru the cabin is extremely dangerous in an accident; it is a fire hazard. But also if it is used with caution and knowning how to use it with all necessary precautions it is a great upgrade it allows you to run almost as if you were running c16 on your gas tank and it is much cheaper than race gas.
There is a huge variety of water/alcohol injection systems (coolingmist, aquamist, hydramist, snow performance, fjo racing, devils own, etc…) Some work “stand alone” and others need to be connected to an engine management computer. They are simple systems that only include the tank, lines, fittings, bombs and the controller. After connecting everything, the controller needs a input of boost/vacuum or MAP/MAF input and you decide at how many pounds of boost (or vacuum N/A) is when you want the system to start injecting water/alcohol and at how many pounds you want it to stop, as you keep increasing boost most systems typically inject more water/methanol in a linear manner until reaching your max boost level. They are other systems that require input from the injector and the system “matches” the flow of water/alcohol with the injector flow.
It has been proved hundreds of times that only adding a water/methanol injection system w/o any other change in a/f ratios, boost or timing you are going to gain absolutely NOTHING… many even loose hp because the a/f is lowered exponentially.
One of the things that you have to keep in mind are “fail safes” for when the system fails. For example the pump stops working, the line gets clogged, your water/methanol tank is empty and you didn’t notice it and you are at full boost this typically means a blown motor. That is unless you have some sort of “fail safe” that allow the ecu of your car to change to a less aggressive map (93 octane only) or lower the wastegate boost among others.
I don’t know if you have seen pistons, valves and engine heads from a motor that uses water injecti
Posts: 253
Joined: 3/10/2008 From: San Juan, Puerto Rico Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: tached_out
There has been a few people having issues with the Lethal kit but every thing has all was been sorted out and fixed. There are all ways people that have issues with every thing when it comes to any major custom job. The tripple hat you can run it with two pumps you dont have to run three and proper fuel delievery is the most important thing if he wants to make 800rwhp.
Meth I was going to do it with my car but I watched so many motors go because lines broke while driving. We had a guy that was in our club have his system fail and his fail safe mode was that it throws the car in limp mode so it wont blow. Well we were in the middle of know where and guess what his car cant drive any faster then 35 miles per hour.
There is no point to put your car at ANY added risk if it is a street car. If its a drag car and some thing goes wrong cool tose it on the trailer and go home and fix it. If its your daily driver or a street car you might find your self SOL on the side of the high way more then once.
Meth is a great mod to do but it is not needed to make the power for a KB. Even with his temperatures were he is it's not going to do much. I wouldnt run a car hard any ways even with meth if its 120 degree's out side.
Not it has not been all cleared out people are still haven't erradic voltage + inconsistent readings/psi and problems with the check valve. You can make 800hp with the gt500 sytem with BAP's, The BAP's have been tried over and over again not 1 has failed yet. That tripple fuel hat is severe overkill like I sad that less than 1% of the mustang population will actually need. For example Modaddict runs 9's on his setup with a gt500 system and dual BAP's, you planning on running 7's?
Now i am very curious on what you say about the methanol injection that the lines brokes? What kind of lines was he running? Like I said on the post that you quoted that seems like you didn't read it completely; I state that methanol is a very corrosive substance. You do need lines that are approved for methanol. Same thing as you would with any fuel line. Would you use regular heathose as your fuel line? Guess not. Back to the methanol what actual experience do you have with any system IF ANY. Running 20psi on pump gas is just dumb and ignorant in my honest opinion without raising either the octane of the gas or lowering the temperature in the combustion chamber. I still haven't seen one good kit fail yet and I do work with them quite a lot. Yes I have seen cheap DIY kits or the really really cheap ones fail but I have not seen one of the good kits fail. For example on the STI with a aquamyst w/m injection system we are able to squeeze 78rwhp more on pump gas.
Water Injection is a really really great mod if you take the time to do it CORRECTLY. The only problem that is has is the same problem turbos have. That usually the people that talk bad about them have never had any real life experience with either and just talk about a newb story they read or something like that.
Andrew
< Message edited by Androdz2 -- 5/1/2008 12:34:09 AM >
The whole this is why risk it all for a street car and the it was the same kit that Snow offers for the SN95's that failed.
I was talked out of Meth by multiple tuners. Adam from ST being one of them. All of them said the same thing. Why?
I responded to make more power and have a more aggressive tune for the street. They said do you really want to put your car at an additional risk of destoring an entire block for street performance when you will all ready be making 600rwhp?
So I stated back well then just for safety? They replied with the proper intercooler and tune you will not be at risk on your car. No matter what meth system you have if you are beating the crap out of it in 120 degree weather that is still not good for your car.
The amount of time you have between runs on the track is more then enough time to allow your car to cool. That adding more complex mods to an all ready complex car is just asking for additional things to fail. Nothing is ever fail proof. Could I really afford to replace an entire engine block because of a failure. No. Am I garenteed that the system will not fail. I dont think so.
Are there right now many people running there cars in hot weather? Yes Where I live it gets to around 112 in Fresno on a bad day. I have friends with cars ranging from 400rwhp to 750rwhp that drive in that weather with out meth. NONE of them has ever had an issue because it was hot. Also none of them beat the crap out of there cars either.
its just common sense not to run your car to the ground in that type of weather. Get your self a good radiator and intercooler and I though you should be more then fine with your temps with out meth.
We have a car with twins running 22psi on our pump gas (about 91 yours) since about a year and a GT500 on 25, not a single knock, the thing is having the right timing. Both cars are on the safe side, rounding 11AFR.
We don't have easy access to high octane fuel, and the guy that has the VP dealership in the country sell it like it was gold, OTOH pump gas is just about 10 cents/gall.
Now as far as 20 psi on a KB on pump. I don't have to give you an opinion on that. It is 100% FACT that you will NOT be able to run 20 psi on a 2.6 on 91 octane regardless of the timing in the tune. It doesn't matter if it's 9º - You do not want to run more than 16 psi or so on a KB on pump...period. Not only does the boost levels demand better fuel, but the KB at those boost levels runs hotter than satin at the beach and you will also need other supporting cooling mods (bigger rad, better HE, better IC pump, bigger resevoir, etc.) to be able to run that kind of boost levels on the street with a KB...
Takes a whole 1 minute to change a pulley on the KB. Run 12-14 psi on the street and when you get to the track, drop good gas in, switch to a 2.5" pulley, lower your idler 2 spaces, tighten the belt back down and make 20-21 psi no problem. That is the only smart thing to do regardless of what shortblock is in the car....
Sorry Lito, but I call BIG BS...
No way on earth you have an S197 with 22 psi through twins on 91 octane. Unless of course this is some new kit I haven't heard about with 21mm turbos... I would love to see vids of your S197 with 22 psi twins running down the track. You must be trapping at least 160 mph...
No way you have a GT500 on 25 psi on 91 octane either. First of all, no one in their right mind is going to want to get 25 psi out of the power robbing factory roots blower. They would first swap to a 2.8 or 3.4 - second, at even 25 psi on the 5.4 - you would want 100 octane to keep the boost in check even with the most conservative timing and tune parameters. Hell, even running fat AFR with baby timing, you would still want the octane to keep the car in check. Boost is just like compression... the higher = the higher the octane required...
Then again, you are talking about another country so I could be wrong. Perhaps your boost gauges measure psi in a different metric conversion... i.e. 25 psi in your terms means 12 psi in real terms - if this is the case, the I apologize and excuse the post but I really think it's just BS.
PS - I'm not trying to flame you personally but some things in fairy tale land are okay as just good ole' fashioned smack talkin' but some remarks (like the one you made) is actually dangerous on a forum if not checked because someone new who doesn't know better might lose an engine listening to nonsense.
TO EVERYONE: PSI is not some mythical number that you just throw around like dyno numbers. Nobody should mess with anything over 10 on a stock motor TS and 12 on a Centrifi & turbo stock motor without consulting one of the few professional shops in the country. I say few, cause IMO, there is only a dozen shops in the country who I consider 'knowing their stuff' when it comes to the S197. Once you step into the psi world above 12 - there is a lot more than just 'turning up the boost'...
< Message edited by modaddict -- 5/1/2008 12:00:29 PM >
Posts: 253
Joined: 3/10/2008 From: San Juan, Puerto Rico Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: tached_out
The whole this is why risk it all for a street car and the it was the same kit that Snow offers for the SN95's that failed.
I was talked out of Meth by multiple tuners. Adam from ST being one of them. All of them said the same thing. Why?
I responded to make more power and have a more aggressive tune for the street. They said do you really want to put your car at an additional risk of destoring an entire block for street performance when you will all ready be making 600rwhp?
So I stated back well then just for safety? They replied with the proper intercooler and tune you will not be at risk on your car. No matter what meth system you have if you are beating the crap out of it in 120 degree weather that is still not good for your car.
The amount of time you have between runs on the track is more then enough time to allow your car to cool. That adding more complex mods to an all ready complex car is just asking for additional things to fail. Nothing is ever fail proof. Could I really afford to replace an entire engine block because of a failure. No. Am I garenteed that the system will not fail. I dont think so.
Are there right now many people running there cars in hot weather? Yes Where I live it gets to around 112 in Fresno on a bad day. I have friends with cars ranging from 400rwhp to 750rwhp that drive in that weather with out meth. NONE of them has ever had an issue because it was hot. Also none of them beat the crap out of there cars either.
its just common sense not to run your car to the ground in that type of weather. Get your self a good radiator and intercooler and I though you should be more then fine with your temps with out meth.
The thing is like turbos on v8's every1 goes against it when they have little or no experience. The methanol systems have improved 10 folds in the past 5 years. They are really hot on the import market hell all the top import guys use them on the street tunes and such. With the controller you can put the 12v output to the wastegate so that it opens completely if it detects a malfunction, low fluid levels etc. There is only so much you can do with a bigger radiator/intercooler. You want to lower the combustion chamber temperature and raise the octane of the gas to give u more of a safety blanket. I do agree with you on the 600rwhp on the street but around here the street is really really hard. To many 800+hp cars including a 4wd ones. We need anything we can get.
Printable Version
20lbs on pump gas ? ? - 
I would love to see vids of your S197 with 22 psi twins running down the track. You must be trapping at least 160 mph...
