Over the weekend I installed my Pypes o/r h. There were some issues with the install but I found solutions. Next week I think I'm going to pull it back off and weld it all up just to make sure I have no exhaust leaks. Over all I think this is a very good deal. I'm very happy with the sound of an o/r h and stock mufflers. I plan on keeping the stock mufflers and just welding on bigger tips.

Now I'm just waiting for my CAI and tuner to come:)

Mine leaks where the OR/H is bolted to the passenger exhaust manifold. I tried to fix but I think the original mold from Pypes was worn when stamped. I will haveto heat up and rap it to stop the leak. You may have this problem so carefully reach between the frame and exhaust manifold to check the joint area when vehicle isrunning. Don't burn yourself but if it leaks you will feel the excaping air. I am at a loss and Pypes will not return my email questions.

ORIGINAL: unlawfl

Mine leaks where the OR/H is bolted to the passenger exhaust manifold. I tried to fix but I think the original mold from Pypes was worn when stamped. I will haveto heat up and rap it to stop the leak. You may have this problem so carefully reach between the frame and exhaust manifold to check the joint area when vehicle isrunning. Don't burn yourself but if it leaks you will feel the excaping air. I am at a loss and Pypes will not return my email questions.


Actually yes this was one of the problems I encountered. The flange on the down pipe was bottoming out on the exhaust manifold bolt stop before the pipe made a tight connection. I had this problem on both the passenger and drivers sides. I just took a large diameter drill bit to make an inset on the tops of the flanges so the flange would allow the pipes to make a tight fit to the exhaust manifold.

How can you tell if you have a leak?

How can you tell if you have a leak?
If the leak has been there a while there should be a black residue on the pipes or manifolds where exhaust has been leaking out.

ORIGINAL: Raven27

How can you tell if you have a leak?
If the leak has been there a while there should be a black residue on the pipes or manifolds where exhaust has been leaking out.



Usually you don't want to wait till that's an indicator but h's right. A more immediate find is seeing and hearing the exhaust escaping. One you can see the smoke coming off and two you can also hear it. Listen for a ticking noise like tikytikytiky very fast. These are all clear signs

Is this the new 4 piece design of the O/R H-pipe? I have been thinking of getting it, but I am a little concerned of issues during the install, since I was looking at doing it myself in my garage.

Yes this is the 4 piece. It may require some modification to have good connections. Pypes includes 2 clamps for the pipes coming off the exhaust manifolds to connect to the H. These clamps didn't really seem to work very well so I bougth 2 exhaust clamps like the one used to clamp at the H.

Does anybody know if the Pypes O/R X-pipe has similar fitting issues that their H-pipe does?

I'm sure of it. All of pypes products leave something to be desired w/ quality. They are priced to sell though

ORIGINAL: Agleon

How can you tell if you have a leak?


put soapy water around the connections and start the car up....you will get some bubbling and such showing you where the leaks are

windex works as well

Congrats! Same setup I have, just welded some 4" tips on.

ORIGINAL: unlawfl

Mine leaks where the OR/H is bolted to the passenger exhaust manifold. I tried to fix but I think the original mold from Pypes was worn when stamped. I will haveto heat up and rap it to stop the leak. You may have this problem so carefully reach between the frame and exhaust manifold to check the joint area when vehicle isrunning. Don't burn yourself but if it leaks you will feel the excaping air. I am at a loss and Pypes will not return my email questions.


Pypes was no help to me at all either. Couldn't get any answers to my questions. Fitment was junk.

I didn't get any new bolts and ended up using the old ones. Now I have a broken bolt thats pretty much froze/heat-welded in the collector flange. I've had issues with these pipes ever since I put them in. I welded the H joint together to save the trouble of leaks...not that that helped much. I had bad exhaust leaks from the get go. I'm putting the stock catted pipes back on when I can get that broken bolt out. PB Blaster hasn't been much help...

ORIGINAL: Raven27

ORIGINAL: unlawfl

Mine leaks where the OR/H is bolted to the passenger exhaust manifold. I tried to fix but I think the original mold from Pypes was worn when stamped. I will haveto heat up and rap it to stop the leak. You may have this problem so carefully reach between the frame and exhaust manifold to check the joint area when vehicle isrunning. Don't burn yourself but if it leaks you will feel the excaping air. I am at a loss and Pypes will not return my email questions.


Actually yes this was one of the problems I encountered. The flange on the down pipe was bottoming out on the exhaust manifold bolt stop before the pipe made a tight connection. I had this problem on both the passenger and drivers sides. I just took a large diameter drill bit to make an inset on the tops of the flanges so the flange would allow the pipes to make a tight fit to the exhaust manifold.




i had the same trouble, and my friend's shop said they did something similar to this fix. when you have time, can you supply pics, or diagrams of this fix so i can understand it better?? the reason is that i think i'm still getting a leak at the collector and would like to explain better how to fix it. thanks!!

ORIGINAL: harraid5711

ORIGINAL: Raven27

ORIGINAL: unlawfl

Mine leaks where the OR/H is bolted to the passenger exhaust manifold. I tried to fix but I think the original mold from Pypes was worn when stamped. I will haveto heat up and rap it to stop the leak. You may have this problem so carefully reach between the frame and exhaust manifold to check the joint area when vehicle isrunning. Don't burn yourself but if it leaks you will feel the excaping air. I am at a loss and Pypes will not return my email questions.


Actually yes this was one of the problems I encountered. The flange on the down pipe was bottoming out on the exhaust manifold bolt stop before the pipe made a tight connection. I had this problem on both the passenger and drivers sides. I just took a large diameter drill bit to make an inset on the tops of the flanges so the flange would allow the pipes to make a tight fit to the exhaust manifold.




i had the same trouble, and my friend's shop said they did something similar to this fix. when you have time, can you supply pics, or diagrams of this fix so i can understand it better?? the reason is that i think i'm still getting a leak at the collector and would like to explain better how to fix it. thanks!!


same problem you all are having here too. Passenger side collector. Also where the broken stud/bolt is. +1 on the pics.



The plot thickens....

I will most likely be pulling it back off this weekend to weld, so I'll take some pics then.

awesome! good luck man. I'm in the same boat as you right now

Here are some pics of what I was talking about by making a countersink in the flang. This is the side that rest on the stops of the exhaust manifold bolts. You can use a dremel to make the countersink.
http://home.comcast.net/%7Eravenz7/DSC01999.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/%7Eravenz7/DSC02000.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/%7Eravenz7/DSC02004.JPG

Man, I realize that you cant beat the price of pypes.... But the work that has to be put into practically all of there products I have heard of or seen at this time is ridiculous. I bought the muffler deletes a long time ago, the sound was freakin awesome (loud but awesome) and the fitement was so horrible that the muffler shop couldnt even get them fixed. I replaced them withmagna flows. But then my friend bught the violators and he had the same problem, he called pypes and they said sorry, we'll send you a hat or somthing but there is nothing we can do about the fitement, and to just try and twist the mid pipe to get it bet as he could. Up and down looks ok but the P/S tip sticks out further than the D/S. IDK cost over quality, its a tough decision but one I know I'll think twice about making again.good luck to you though.