I thought i'd take some pics and do a little how to for anyone that doesn't know how to change their manual transmission fluid. It was much easier than I thought it'd be.
First remove the fill plug located on the passenger side of the transmission. you'll need a 3/8 inch ratchet and a 3/8 inch short extension to remove it. I actually used a 1/2 inch ratchet and a 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch adapter instead of an extension, all my extensions were too long. I didn't get a shot of the fill plug, but it's located where the clear tubing is going into the side of the transmission.
Next remove the drain plug located at the bottom of the transmission. You need to remove the fill plug first so the fluid will not created a vacuum. Be ready with a catch pan or gallon water bottle with the top cut off, which is what I used. I could have used my oil drain pan, but I wanted to be able to lift it up to the transmission and inspect the oil that came out.
Now replace the drain plug and insert your fill hose into the fill hole. I used some 3/8 inch inside diameter tubing from the hardware store. Ace hardware sells this stuff by the foot and you only need 3 feet, if that. This size worked perfect for fitting into the fill hole and also fit the top of my royal purple syncromax bottle very nicely. You can use a smaller diameter tube, but using a thicker tube meant I could squeeze the bottle from inside the car without worrying about the tube coming out of the fill hole.
Remove your shifter boot and rubber gasket and feed the tube down infront of the shifter like so.
the manual calls for 3.2 quarts to fill it to 1/2 inch below the fill hole. You'll need to squeeze the bottle and then back the bottle of the tube a bit to allow air to get in. Otherwise it will try to suck the oil you just squeezed out back into the bottle. You could also poke a hole in the bottom of the bottle. You need to stick your finger in there to judge half an inch. I found that 3 quarts was enough, but I didn't let it drain completely. Reinstall the fill plug and torque both plugs to 18-20 ft lbs.
I've read the royal purple synchromax does wonders for manual transmissions, but I only drove it around the block so I can't give an opinion yet on smooter shifts.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
I did the pump thing with the gear oil, never again!
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
nice info. how did the tranny fluid look, and how many miles on your car?
Almost 20k and it looked good to me. A nice deep red color.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
Posts: 658
Joined: 10/9/2007 From: Harrisburg PA Status: offline
Sweet write-up, thanks Moose.
Now I wish someone would do: - Change the oil in rear differential - Change brake fluid - Maybe even a change coolant how-to Then we'd have all the fluid How-Tos covered (Taco Bill already has the oil change covered)
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07 Vista Blue GT 5spd, BBK CAI, Brenspeed, Raptor, 18" DD Bullits, MGW Shifter, 4.10s, Eibach Pro, D-Specs, Violators, Cervini's Grill, Spohn adj PHB & UCA
I do not believe I have ever change the tranny fluid on any of my manual transmission vehicles. Is this required? When/what mileage is recommended for the change?
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06 GT Vista Blue 64Ws Manual Sequentials 50F/35R Metallic Tint K&N Drop-in Air Filter JBA Shorty Headers JBA Exhaust BamaChips 87 Octane Tune
I do not believe I have ever change the tranny fluid on any of my manual transmission vehicles. Is this required? When/what mileage is recommended for the change?
+1................. I'm at 20k so I'm guessing mine's ok for now if you said yours looks fine.
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'06 Vista Blue GT 5-Speed C&L Inlet pipe/CAI Steeda UDPs Steeda Strut Tower Brace Flowmaster American Thunders Hurst Short Throw X-Cal 2 w/ Brenspeed Tune
Posts: 422
Joined: 1/15/2005 From: SF Bay Area Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: kcmarti
I do not believe I have ever change the tranny fluid on any of my manual transmission vehicles. Is this required? When/what mileage is recommended for the change?
I used Red Line ATF at 3.8k. Going to use Amsoil at 30k. Amsoil because Red Line is not too available in NC. I talked to Red Line before I made the Amsoil decision. They recommended a 30k change interval.
I do not believe I have ever change the tranny fluid on any of my manual transmission vehicles. Is this required? When/what mileage is recommended for the change?
Every 4 years or 60,000 miles according to the haynes manual. I changed mine because my manual transmission is noisey. I read it significantly reduces noise. I still haven't driven the car because i'm waiting on some stupid K member bolts that are stripped! I should have them replaced tomorrow.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
Hey Moose, Sorry I didn't read the entire post, but did you finish? I am curious to see how everything works out. I ordered the Mcleod RST today, and 4.10s, thinking about a spyder shaft. The clutch won't ship until 5-9 which sucks. But once it is here the new mods will be prothane mounts, 4.10's, clutch and maybe a spyder shaft. Do you know anyone wanting a cheap Spec'sII + aluminum flywheel? It just needs a new facing $70.00 from specs. I am think 75.00 + shipping for the flywheel.
Hey Moose, Sorry I didn't read the entire post, but did you finish? I am curious to see how everything works out. I ordered the Mcleod RST today, and 4.10s, thinking about a spyder shaft. The clutch won't ship until 5-9 which sucks. But once it is here the new mods will be prothane mounts, 4.10's, clutch and maybe a spyder shaft. Do you know anyone wanting a cheap Spec'sII + aluminum flywheel? It just needs a new facing $70.00 from specs. I am think 75.00 + shipping for the flywheel.
I finished, but I only drove the car around the block. It seems my passenger side K member bolts were cross threaded at the factory. I backed them off, but not out, to lower the engine and went to torque them to spec and couldn't get them back in. I'm getting some new bolts from ford tomorrow and hopefully they thread in no problem.
I swear my clutch pedal feels lighter than stock, but it could be because I haven't driven the car in a few days. I might still have some air in it as well. Atleast the car doesn't roll when in gear and I rev it. I think I also had an exhaust leak at the header/H pipe connection which i fixed. I figure if I eventually take the whole car apart and put it back together, it just might be perfect when I'm done.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
Hey Moose, I saw them picking on you in the street/strip section, whats up with that?
I guess you need to take your car to the track and beat the shiot out of it or you are not worthy of that forum. Just some jealously among some 2v owners. That forum is dead to me, it's a chevy forum anyway.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time.
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A How To: changing manual transmission fluid - 
I could have used my oil drain pan, but I wanted to be able to lift it up to the transmission and inspect the oil that came out. 
I figure if I eventually take the whole car apart and put it back together, it just might be perfect when I'm done. 
