edits have been made to alter and soften up the tone ever so slightly. Deletions of potentially inflammatory posts have been made. If you see one of your posts edited or deleted, do not despair - I hold no grudges.
If you don't like it , PM me. Escalating posts from here will be dealt with appropriately, which means harshly. gp >>> <<< you (you when I'm done >>>)
It's all good, boys. Carry on....
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Acer2428 If MF were a Disney movie, I'd be the retarded step-brother who eventually saves everyone by hitting the burgular over the head with a frying pan and then clapping my hands all retarded-like.
LOL! Some of the edits were good information add-ons and others were very funny. Great Sense of Humor! Your now my favorite moderator on the whole site gp
Acer2428 If MF were a Disney movie, I'd be the retarded step-brother who eventually saves everyone by hitting the burgular over the head with a frying pan and then clapping my hands all retarded-like.
Thanks for the info everyone! A question for the manual mach 1. I've read about people having problems with the clutch. The most common I've read are problems with 2nd gear. Does anyone know if this just a common problem or just isolated?
Your warranty will be voided only if the dealership can prove that the part(s) you added/replaced with aftermkt caused problems to whatever part your filing a claim for. In all honesty, Its illegal to remove factory cats from your car (all 50 states), but if you do and lets say your trans blows, the exhaust didnt cause your trans to fail, so it should be covered. Now if you blow a head gasket and/or some other internal engine part fails, then dealership could say that by removing the factory exhaust, the engine part failed, then its a toss up. They still have to prove that the engine part failed because you removed the factory exhaust/mid pipe...hope I helped here. Basically, its up to the dealership to prove that your added parts caused a certain part to fail, its the law.
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03 Mach 1, auto, wht/blk, 4:10's, bassani off rd-x/borla c-back, c&l intake, 1" shaker ext., ported/polished manifold, steeda sport springs/agx's, 18x9/10 blk FR 500's with 255-40(Michelin PS's)/285-35 nitto DR's, BC auto 3600 stall/t-cooler...SCT tuned.
oh I have problems with my clutch, in fact im about to replace mine with a stage 2, which i would advise anyone to do anyway.
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'04 Mach 1, Torch Red- Flowmasters, C&L CAI, PHP intake spacer, SCT Tuner, MT slicks on weld drag lites for the track, nitto 555 drag radials for the street- SOLD '02 GT vert
IT depends on the brand and who installs it- I have a friend who is installing mine for 150, and the clutch and the stage 2 is around 300. Everyone tells me it usually costs around 5-600
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'04 Mach 1, Torch Red- Flowmasters, C&L CAI, PHP intake spacer, SCT Tuner, MT slicks on weld drag lites for the track, nitto 555 drag radials for the street- SOLD '02 GT vert
Stage 2's are a good set up methinks. I went with the Ram HD 6-puck, as you can pretty much high rpm dump the clutch with anything up to about 750RWHP with one of those and a billet flywheel. But yah, I'd say the stock clutch's aren't exactly so good for anything beyond just being a DD. I've seen some last for a while, but they wear out wicked quick on the average, IF you beat on them that is, which most people that have mach's tend to do.. hehe..
Around 300 for the part and 5-600 for installing it? Damn. I've read about stock machs that have not been beat on having problems too. With just a catted exhaust system and maybe a RAI would you think I would better off with the Stage 2s or would Stage 1 be fine? Also what would be a better brand?
I don't think you should worry about the clutch. The stock one will be fine unless you really get into drag racing.
The problem you are talking about with second gear wouldn't be the clutch. That would just be the synchros in the tranny. That is a whole other problem.
I don't think you should worry about the clutch. The stock one will be fine unless you really get into drag racing.
The problem you are talking about with second gear wouldn't be the clutch. That would just be the synchros in the tranny. That is a whole other problem.
And that could lead to an even bigger problem! The only reason i am repacing mine is bc its sticking at the track, and i dont wnna be driving somewhere and it go out completely. Its up to how u drive it on what you need.
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'04 Mach 1, Torch Red- Flowmasters, C&L CAI, PHP intake spacer, SCT Tuner, MT slicks on weld drag lites for the track, nitto 555 drag radials for the street- SOLD '02 GT vert
Ok. Yeah I guess I was just wondering if I would need the Stage 2s if I planned on getting a new exhaust and wanted some assured durability. I know the air idle control valve has caused stalling issues, and replacing it has alleviated the problem. Know anyting about that? I've been leaning towards the automatic because of my little experience with a manual, but the manual is faster. If I'd end up having more trouble with a manual though, then an auto mach is probably a better route.
I would rather have a 5 speed and have to replace it than have an auto. The auto can be better and more consistent for the strip when built, but the 5 speed is much more fun on the street.
Methinks I'd have to agree with JMAC and whodini, it's all in how you drive it and what you're driving it for. Just for a DD you shouldn't really have to worry about the clutch itself unless you're really ripping on it alot, like street-racing wise. And the synchro's are definitely another problem. If the synchro's go out you risk shearing the teeth off of your gears trying to get it IN gear.. LOL I know, that's what happened to the 1st 3650 I had. Though I'd still have to say a 5-spd is much more fun to drive on the street than an auto. ;-) Plus auto mach's are harder to find, though they ARE out there if you know where to look..
Thanks for the help guys. now I just need to find one for the right price...
Check a few mustang forums in their for sale section, post a want to buy add in mustang registry wtb/fs section, and check cars.com. Do all that and I guarantee you that you will find a mach 1 with a good price within a few weeks. I posted a wtb ad on registry for a mach and with 2 days I got a pm about a mach 1 with 2k miles on it, stock, and a couple blocks away from me for $20k. Oh I was so happy .