How to re-pin a harness. I'm using a 1989 harness from a 2.3 manual car. It should be the same for a 1987-1990 mustan with either a auto or manual transmission (since its only the computer to engine bay harness)

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This is a wiring harness out of a 1987-1990 mustang 2.3. Its the computer to engine bay harness.

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The protective black case on top helps stop the pins from backing out and also protechs them from rubbing on metal and shorting out.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p233/sleeper_inc/homeimprovment012.jpg
Here I took the case off to get at the pins using a small screw driver.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p233/sleeper_inc/homeimprovment013.jpg
Another way of keeping the pins in is this red casing. Remove it using a small flat headed screw driver with a back and forth motion (like in the next picture)

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p233/sleeper_inc/homeimprovment014.jpg

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The inner casing has been removed, and now the pins are ready to be removed.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p233/sleeper_inc/homeimprovment016.jpg
**Make sure to number what side has what number of pin to make it easier to see where the pins go (trust me, this helps alot because then you don't have to move the harness back and forth between yourself and the computer).

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p233/sleeper_inc/homeimprovment017.jpg
I found using a small zip tie works well for taking the pin out without damaging it in any way shape or form.

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List what color wire is going to do what (stops you from getting confused and wiring it incorrecty)(Quilty of doing that)

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p233/sleeper_inc/homeimprovment020.jpg
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This is how I joined the two wires without cutting a connection. Stip the insolation off the wire being connected (about a 1/4") then strip and cut about the same from the wiring being connected to. Then solder the joints together, and then tape to keep them from touching, causing them to short out.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p233/sleeper_inc/homeimprovment024.jpg
Since my wiring harness was out, I connected them higher up to make it cleaner and look stock(ish).

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p233/sleeper_inc/homeimprovment025.jpg
Had to drill a hole through the gromit because of the gauge of wiring I used, but its also a blessing because it made it easier to move the wiring closer to the wall for a mounting point.

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p233/sleeper_inc/homeimprovment026.jpg
I also deleted my A/C condenser and clutch lines since I longer want A/C

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p233/sleeper_inc/homeimprovment028.jpg
Wiring all together and ready to be installed

Awesome bro.... Now about how long do these wire need to be?

I made mine about 7 feet, and I cut the extra off;)

Sweet.... so now i need wire.......

bump...... workin on wiring

havin problems takin the pins out.... how you get them out??

I used a zip tie, shoved the little pointed end into the clip holding the pin inplace.

i got em thankz bro!

No problem, its alot easier to do it this way that with something metal. Plastic bends, metal dosen't[&:]

No Problem.... so all i need to wire is four wires???

If your using a la, lb, 8ua series computer yes. If a p series... more

its a PF3, what else i need??

Your lucky I did this for everyone lol

Wiring a P series VAM into a 88-90 Mustang
(this is for when your doing a 2.3 turbo swap with a computer other than a LA, LB, 8UA series)



Splice into/”T’’ connect the VRef (orange/white) to the wire going to pin 26 of the stock harness (also orange/white). (I say splice into/”T” connect the wire running into the engine bay. This is because pin 26 is being used by the TPS, MAP, and EGR.)




Remove Pin Connector #3 from LX wire harness red block (or take one from your harness you salvaged, and put this pin connector and wire into the red block of your LX harness to plug into your Pin 43 position on the P series computer. The LX harness lacks this connecting pin).



Connect the VAF (white/black) to the wire going to pin 43 of the stock harness (the new connecting pin you just put in)




Connect the VAT (vain air temp) to pin connector #27 (this can be found at your EGR Valve position sensor) Now move that pin #27 to pin #25 and move #25 to an area with no pin (this is the ACT sensor which only the PE, and 87-88 turbo coupe computers can use)




Splice into/"T" connect the VAM signal return (black/white) wire into the LX harness (black/white) wire that goes to pin 46. Do not cut the LX harness (black/white) wire going into pin 46, simply connect this VAM signal return black/white wire to it.

ya i've got that copy'd and i did that. makes 4 wires... or am i readin wrong?

move 4, t into2, and cross fingers and hope it works;)

okay then its done..... just gotta hook everything up and tryin and turn her over

and find my vam.....